CRRC Pro GF26I

[FLZman]

Glad you made progress 3d!

Speaking of venturi's, has anyone tested this engine with and without the black venturi to see if it does anything?


Z

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by FLZman
	Glad you made progress 3d! Speaking of venturi's, has anyone tested this engine with and without the black venturi to see if it does anything? Z

i found no apreciable difference i do not run one on my 26 or my 50 so as not to have to cut the cowl.

[3Dguy]

Still flying the CRRC and the WT-419...getting ready to switch to 40:1.

So far, it's been very reliable, but this thing likes to kick a little during startup.

[joseae]

Those of you who have replaced the stock plug with the NGK, have you had any problems with the cap loosening up? I have been told the size of the cap is 16mm and the NGK is only 14mm and it won't lock up properly.

[3Dguy]

Mine was loose from the start. I just put a hose clamp around it.

[joseae]

My bad. The info about the NGK being 14mm proved to be wrong. What kind of hose clamp are you using? Any pictures?

[3Dguy]

I just went to an auto parts store and picked up a clamp. It's the one that you have to turn a screw to tighten. I'm trying to upload a pic now.

[FLZman]

I think this is what they are using. I havent had to use one yet though.

[3Dguy]

Yep, that one.

[joseae]

Got it. Thanks.

[babsvdmerwe]

Hi my name is Andre from South Africa and I need help with my crrc pro gf26i. I have been flying it for about a month and a half every saterday and sunday without any problems but on my last flight after i had refueled it would not start. I recharged the 6volt battery to 7.49v and found that it only had spark on the first rotation of the prop and on Switching off the ignition.
Thank You,
Andre

[ken crane]

	Quote: Originally Posted by babsvdmerwe
	Hi my name is Andre from South Africa and I need help with my crrc pro gf26i. I have been flying it for about a month and a half every saterday and sunday without any problems but on my last flight after i had refueled it would not start. I recharged the 6volt battery to 7.49v and found that it only had spark on the first rotation of the prop and on Switching off the ignition. Thank You, Andre

not saying this is the cause but i was warned that a fully charged 6 volt battery putting out what it should like yours can and will damage the ignition module. the rating is 4.8-6 volt not accounting for the hot charge. we were all told to run the ignition on 4.8. also the major ignition companies have shown the discharge rate at equal rpm,the 4.8 lasted 1/3 rd longer than a 6 volt. take a new plug (remove the one from the head) and rock the prop past the hall sensor and see if you have spark from the plug . also look at the magnet in the prop hub to see it has not moved from flush. air gap is important. if no spark after the this the module may be toast.

[zool.on]

Hi,

I have the 45 and the 26 and they seem to be running fine. But I have a few questions about the 26.
What replacement plug are you all useing? I do not trust the tourch plug that it came with. Oh and by the way I got my 45 and 26 from Ray both have the RCEXL ignition. I ran the 26 for about two hours yesterday @ 30:1, first 40 minutes about 2500 to 3500 RPM then the rest was between idel and 5500 RPM with sort bursts at wot. At this time I am running the SY 16X8 and I peaked the high end to about 8600 RPM and then backed it off a little. Now my second question is, should holding the plane up vertical affect the engine like a glow two stroke? I was always under the impression that due to the pump in the carb the engine would not go lean. I found I had to richen the high end twice as the engine was going lean when I held the plane up vertical, is this normal? My third problem is the engine going lean in flight at just under half throttle, but this I think this might be a fuel problem as on each flight when this happened I found when I landed there were air bubles in the fuel line so I will take a closer look at the tank set up.

Now for my impression of the 26. Ray warned me it might be a little hard to start by hand before it is broken in. I found it took a while to get the fuel to the carb on firt run, about 20 flips or so but once the fuel was there it started in 5 flips 3 with choke till it poped and 2 after that with the choke off and it was running fine. In my two hours of break in I ran it for the fist three tanks at ten minutes and then let if cool down and so on in ten minute cycles. after that I ran it to half tank (14 oz tank) and then let it cool off and so on for the rest of the time. By the end of the time I leaned out the low end just a little about 1/8 and was able to have a good idel between 1850 and 1950 RPM and was getting 8600 on the high. But I did end up haveing to richen up the high end today.
As for performance I found a used Funtana X (100) that I mounted the engine on and this seems like a nice combo. I was only able to get two flights in today but it seemed to have unlimited vertical and ran nice over all other then my mid range problem that I think is due to a fule tank or plumbing problem.

My 45 has no problems at all and is pulling my old 16Lb bipe with ease, so over all I am very happy with these eniges and would recomend them to any one lookeing for a good engine at a good price. I am verry happy with my dealings with Ray as well. He is only about 20 minutes away from me so I picked up my engines in person and am happy with his service.

[edwal07]

Hi,
I have been using the NGK CMR7H stock #3066 with great results. I have 3 of the CRRC Pro GF-26i engines and have had nothing but good luck with them.
The only thing in your post I am concerned about is your fuel mixture. They recommend 26:1 for break in, I ran 20:1 for 4 tanks dropped to 26:1 for another 4 and now I am running 93 octane gas with Sthil Ultra at 40:1 which is a fully synthetic bio-degradable oil. All three run like champs and extremely easy to start. After about 8 tanks they all start easily by hand.
A word of warning and I learned this from experience, choke the engine for at least 12 revs by hand prior to starting with an electric starter, make sure you have gas at the carb. Otherwise you will kill the ring and your compression.
I have over 50 flights on my engines with no problems, there are over 15 engines in my club and everyone is happy with them. They run great right out of the box. Wait until you get 4 or 5 tanks thru them before you start messing with the needles, allow them to break in.
Also I only test ran them in the plane to check for throttle response, idle and high rpm before flight, then flew them like I would normally fly all my other planes, but use common sense and not fly them at wot for the whole flight. Fly it like you would drive a new car, get it up to speed, throttle back, pull hard, throttle back, cycle it like you would on the ground. This way you are breaking it in on operating conditions in flight, not static on the ground.
Best all around props 16X8 and 16X10 APC.
Ed
Here's my SuperChipmunk and 25% J-3. I have the other on an Ultra RC Katana Extreme which at 11.5lbs is a flying Circus with the 26.

[edwal07]

Hi again,
Didn't mean to be long winded. Anyway wanted to comment on your fuel problem.
I found that by increasing the fuel tubing in the tank to 5/32" is the best way to go, also use the Large clunk or drill out the smaller ones to match your fuel tubing ID.
You should not have any air bubbles in your lines, could be the tygon on the smaller 1/8"ID tubing at or in the fuel tank. The 5/32" tubing will give you plenty of flow to the carb. You should not lean out in any position with the pump on the carb, also check to make sure the screws on the pump cover is tight.
Another point, there have been issues with the magnet coming out of the thrust cone on the 50CC for the electronic ignition hall sensor. The fix is to "stake" the magnet in place by using a small center punch and lightly putting a punch right next to the magnet which will push a small bit of metal into the magnet to help secure it, also a drop of thin CA for the finishing touch. If it is loose and easy to remove then use a small dab of epoxy to the end before reinstalling. Just for insurance I have made this modification to all my engines.
Ed