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#571 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1
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Carb install: I was wondering if i could turn the carb 180 degrees to put the carb adjustment knobs at the bottom?????? engine cylinder is pointed down.
I did run the engine on a test stand with the cylinder facing upward and the carb adjustment knobs facing down. All the pics i see here have the carb adjutment knobs facing up |
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#572 |
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Doo It! Doo It!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 82
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Why not just run the engine inverted on the test stand?
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#573 | ||||||||||||||||||
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I AM THE BEAST MASTER !
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no ! do not turn the carb on th 26 around. the pulse port for the fuel pump will become blocked. if you take the carb off you will see an elongated hole in the manifold. this aligns with a hole on the carb. |
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#574 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Williams, Az USA
Age: 76
Posts: 2,439
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In case you didn't see the reply on RCU, you CAN rotate the carb if you make a new pulse passage and rotate the gasket as well.....It would be a good idea to fill the old part of the passage with JB Weld to eliminate any leak......
__________________
It will either work or it won't
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#575 | ||||||||||||||||||
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I AM THE BEAST MASTER !
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look hes grumpy now lol. i wish i was half s smart as him. i hve learned more in rc stuff by going to his user name and reading his threads and posts. some are nothing i am intrested in but most have helped like a college professor. thanks rcign ! |
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#576 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lakeland, FL
Age: 46
Posts: 122
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Yep, Ralph knows his stuff. He has both my crrc's 26's right now trying to make them "runable". Last I heard, he was still in a wrestling match with them
but if anyone can make them run he can.Z |
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#577 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Whatchu lookin at?!
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__________________
-Anderson "Sweatshop" |
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#578 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lakeland, FL
Age: 46
Posts: 122
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Yep,
Both have good power but low end has continued to be erratic at best. I put the plane and engines in the hangar for a couple weeks and gave it some thought trying to figure out what I am doing that is causing this. Obviously, there are a bunch of success stories here so I got to believe Ralph will figure it out. I am okay with gas engines but these two (one worse than other) went beyond by skills . One of them also had a cracked hub so he is taking care of that as well. Hopefully, he will get them dialed in soon, I am missing my planes![]() Z |
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#579 |
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Whatchu lookin at?!
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The cracked hubs are pretty widespread in these engines. I hope mine doesn't give. I really think that all the running problems with these engines are mainly due to the carb, but I'm no Ralph.
__________________
-Anderson "Sweatshop" |
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#580 |
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Doo It! Doo It!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 82
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I replaced my engine's hub recently and after several runs, so far, no signs of cracking (kow). My 26 seems to be getting stronger with each run (I hate to say things like that 'cause I'm superstitious). I still have lesser issues like rich midrange and a noisy rubber seal but I don't want to mess with that right now. FLZman, are you using 4.8v or 6v to power the ignition? I had problems starting my engine along with a very poor low end and replaced the 4.8v pack with a 6v. The engine starts a lot easier now and I have noticed a huge improvement in the low idle.
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#581 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lakeland, FL
Age: 46
Posts: 122
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Mostly 4.8. I did try 6 one day at field (just switched my flight pack and ignition batt) but didnt see a mark able improvement. Hopefully Ralph will figure it out soon and I will post any findings in case it can be of use to others down the road or presently.
Z |
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#582 |
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Doo It! Doo It!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 82
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Yes it happened to me too. At first, when I switched batteries, the engine started faster but there wasn't much improvement at the low end, but that was because I had been messing with the needles so much. Then as soon as I returned everything to factory settings, the idle became more stable even at lower speeds. I don't think you have a carb problem since both your engines are acting the same way, that would be too much of a coincidence. If I were you, I would return the needles to factory setting (assuming they are not), check for leaks, and just give the 6v pack another chance.
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#583 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Lakeland, FL
Age: 46
Posts: 122
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Well, they are both in rcign possession and I imagine he has tried that. He knows gassers
. we will see what he comes up with. He did tell me he put a zenny 26 head and carb on one of them and it ran fine. So I guess he is looking at head and carb of the crrc trying to figure out difference. pulsing? Time will tell.I should have noted originally that one of the two was "flyable" meaning as long as I babied it through low end, it was somewhat reliable and I was just dealing with it. But since I knew #2 was needing his help, thought might as well send #1 with it. I would love to have two engines that act like my DA's DL's and Zenoah where from idle I can move stick as fast as I want to full power and it not miss a beat. I am into a lot of hovering and torque rolling and that lower end as you might expect is pretty crucial. Z |
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#584 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Whatchu lookin at?!
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__________________
-Anderson "Sweatshop" |
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#585 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 11
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The hub on my GF26i finally cracked halfway through. I tried in vain to remove it but ended up bending the crankshaft trying to get that hub off. Anyway, I was never happy with the performance of the engine. It was hard to start and never acheived better then 7900rpm on 17x6.
I ordered a new GF26i with RCEXL ignition option from Ray @ PRC model to replace it. First thing I noticed is the new prop hub and new carb. I forget the number on the carb (WT8** on the new one). Compared to the original carb, the bore is bigger on the new one, and the new one doesn't have the nice two-position choke. Instead its got a choke latch mechanism that lets you set the choke when at idle throttle, but as soon as you throttle up the latch lets go. I removed all that silliness and use a pushrod next to the velocity stack to manually open/close choke. I hope this new one performs more like the numbers I see posted on this thread. |
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