CRRC Pro GF26I

[joseae]

What exactly did you do? A cracked hub should be easier to remove. I just had to remove the output shaft then gently tapped the hub and it literally jumped off the engine. Installing the new one was even easier. This engine's parts are really cheap, a new crank shaft is only $14 at PRC. I have one of the older engines and the carb is exactly what you describe as the "new" one. I would not be too concerned about numbers, these engines take some time (and lots of gas) to fully break-in.

[ipsik]

For those of you who can't get their CRRC Pro 26cc to run properly or at all this may help, it could be the pump pressure feed.

Mine wouldn't stay running when warm, just sort of ran out of fuel, if I choked it it would run for a bit but
was starving for fuel,....I checked all the usuall spots filter, clunk, line leaks etc etc and could find nothing.

With the Walbro WT carb apart I couldn't see how the crankcase pulses coud get to the diaphram as the feed
from the carb isolator went to the pump diaphram top cover and just stopped...no passage to the diaphram itself.
This is where there could be an external nipple ( the CRRC Pro 26 should use the internal passage), it has a ball bearing driven in to block that hole. I simply drilled a small hole from the inlet passage to this hollow spot inside the pump diaphram cover. the Engine now runs perfectly!

This web page shows most of what i am reffering to.

[ipsik]

Sorry, I missed the web page from my previous post http://tech.flygsw.org/walbro_tuneup.htm

[3Dguy]

Mine wouldn't run... I just replaced the carb.

[babsvdmerwe]

Hi, name is Andre and i would like to know if it is possible to change the spark plug cap on the rcexl ignition system.I broke my cap and plug in a stupid accident.

[rcign]

If it's a BPMR6F spark plug I have a bunch of caps taken off new ignitions...Easy replacement...You WILL like the price...

[3Dguy]

Do you have a website?

[JeffElecRC]

Hey guys, I need some help tuning.

I'm seeing a major difference between running the engine with the cowling on vs off (it's a round cowl with big-opening on Sukhoi).

With the cowling off the engine runs great. On the ground the engine starts easy, idles fine, and quickly transitions to full power.

However, when I put the cowl on, it started surging when giving full throttle in flight. So I richened the highend mix until that surging went away. Now I can cruise around at full throttle, but when I back off full throttle the engine goes down to about idle speed and will not transition again to mid or full throttle for 20-30 seconds. Then at some point the rpm picks up again like something is "clearing out". What causes this? Too rich, too lean on the highend? The low-mid range is ok it burbles a little bit because I've richened both needles. The engine is pretty hot after a couple minute flight (can't hold finger on head fins for more than half a second). So that tells me it's leaning out, right?

Also to note, this is the second CRRC 26 I've had in this plane. The first one didnt have this problem.

I've tried running a line from the carb diaphram cover vent hole into the fuselage. I have a couple square inches open on the bottom of my fuse to allow air to flow through (I've tried with and without the opening).

[babsvdmerwe]

Would just like to know if altitude plays a role in the fuel ratio you use in getting the most rpm from a gf26i.
Thanks,
Andre.

[babsvdmerwe]

Hi guys anyone still around

[3Dguy]

Yea we're still here....I'm sure altitude does indeed play a role.

[3Dguy]

Ok, guys. My CRRC 26 kicked back during startup and threw out the black output shaft. My spindle also has a hairline crack in it now, so I figured now would be a good time to replace it with the new version..

--This engine kicks back HARD. It's enough to completely loosen the prop nut. Why does this happen. Is it something I'm doing wrong?

--Also, this is what the engine looks like right now...What's the correct way to put it back together?

-Anderson

[edwal07]

First I assume you still have the key that goes in the keyway on the crankshaft? Get a new updated prop hub, insert the key in the slot so it is even with the angle of the shaft, slide the new hub on the shaft making sure the keyway in the hub is lined up and slips on, you should not have to force it. Put the lockwasher on the crankshaft and screw on the prop shaft. Use 2 nuts on the prop shaft and jam them togeather (put on one nut, put on the other and run it down next to the 1st nut, using two wenches tighten both nuts so they lock each other) now you can turn the outer nut and tighten up the prop shaft onto the crankshaft which will push the hub onto the crankshaft and seat the key. Do not overtighten the prop shaft, just make sure it is snug and tight, overtighteneing will only crack the new hub.
Now, about the kickback. Make sure the pickup is centered on the two screws that holds it in place. This is the normal position to start with. Check your battery voltage and connections. Make sure your plug cap is seated and your spark plug is gapped correctly.
If you have further problems contact Jody at Valley View RC www.valleyviewrc.com and he can help you further.

Thanks
Ed

[3Dguy]

Thanks. Yes, I do have the key.

[joseae]

Not much to add to what Ed already said except don't forget to use thread lock when reinstalling the prop shaft into the crankshaft. And of course you have to you lock the piston through the exhaust port. I used a torque wrench just being careful not to exceed 10 lbs of torque. I have noticed a tendency to kickback only when it is over primed or slightly flooded.