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#736 |
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Bad Ass Super Contributor
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 50
Posts: 1,976
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Nice plane Lockie, good work! I like the 3 blade prop adds a nice touch.
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#737 |
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Super Moderated Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA, SD, Worthing
Posts: 5,905
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Nice looking plane Lockit. Let us know how she flies.
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#738 |
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Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Utsunomiya Japan
Age: 50
Posts: 134
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Thanks guys
Jody I have taken out the choke butterfy and rod because I can choke it from the out side , should I plug the holes on the carb where the rod was are there any issues I should know about pluging them before I do ? I was going to just plug the holes with epoxy so it will only suck air from the stack outlet and not from the upper and lower choke rod holes as well , let me know , Oh and have just spent the last 2 hrs doing the cowl with the dremel still 1/2 way to go , ![]() cheers
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#739 |
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Bad Ass Super Contributor
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 50
Posts: 1,976
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Lockie,
I don't usually use the choke either but I do not remove it. You will have to plug the holes, if you don't it will suck in air through them while you are choking it with your finger and it will be like having the choke only half closed. Would probably be very hard to start cold that way. You could also just put the shaft back in without the plate. |
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#740 |
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If it flys, it's good.
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Pearl City, HI
Age: 72
Posts: 409
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i use this without removing the choke butterfly, and i can still choke the carb with my finger...don't know if it affects performance, but works for me...ken
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ775&P=Z
__________________
Kaos40-SJ50|Venus2-OS1.08FSR|AWYak54 90/120-MLD28|US1000-OS1.60FX|Reactor1.60-DA50R|PAU 36% Edge540-DA100L| |
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#741 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 21
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i want to replace my spark but i dont know what type i must buy because the original spark is a ''no name''
do you know the code for spark like NGK or another brand? |
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#742 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad Ass Super Contributor
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 50
Posts: 1,976
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#743 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 21
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my spark's name and type is ''TORCH CMR5H''. you said that your engine has CMR7H .
how this happend and what type i must use?? |
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#744 |
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Bad Ass Super Contributor
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 50
Posts: 1,976
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Either one will work fine. NGK plugs have the same number.
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#745 |
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Super Moderated Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: USA, SD, Worthing
Posts: 5,905
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What should they be gapped at?
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#746 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Williams, Az USA
Age: 76
Posts: 2,439
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C&H and RC EXL ignitions will fire a .050 gap very well, use the TLAR method...
Not sure about the other ignitions, I HAVE run both of the above ignitions at .050, even took the side electrode clean off a BPMR6F, the engine started and ran but missed at high rpm.... I guess if you wanna use the "accepted" gap use .025 to .035....Anyone thinks a few thousandths difference in the gap makes any measureable difference is WRONG...Unless it's on the fine line of being too close....
__________________
It will either work or it won't
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#747 |
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Bad Ass Super Contributor
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 50
Posts: 1,976
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Ralph is right, the plug gap is not that critical, .020"-.030" is in the neighborhood. I eyeball them all the time and whenever I check the calibration of my eye it's usually around .24".028".
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#748 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 21
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does someone know the difference between 2 sparks with type CMR5H and CMR7H??
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#749 |
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Bad Ass Super Contributor
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tacoma, WA
Age: 50
Posts: 1,976
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The difference is the heat range, the CMR5H is a hotter plug.
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#750 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 21
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which means easier start compared with the CMR7H??
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