CRRC Pro GF26I

[Captinjohn]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Wingman26
	Fiddled and fiddled, finally took it to the driveway to get access to a car battery, flooded it, removed the fuel line, spark plug, and turned it over a few times, then replaced the plug, hit it with the electric starter, it started up and ran a few seconds before dying, hit the starter again, same result, it was dripping gas by this time, so I closed the mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns each, cleared the engine and it started and kept running! It doesn't really want to idle yet, of course it just has about 1/4 tank of fuel run through it so far, but I got it started!!!!!!!

I hope you got that GF26I running good now. I like your avistar of the Wolf. I had a dog years ago 1/2 Wolf. I got into breeding & selling Huskies for a while! It was FUN! Capt,n

[wilde1j]

Does anyone have an installation drawing (dimensioned) for the GF26i?

Jim

[Jedijody]

Here you go.

[wilde1j]

Is there a specified procedure for setting timing on this motor?

I read a good part of this thread early on, saw a motor with a degree wheel installed, and suggestion the sensor may be moved to change timing, but didn't see a clear procedure. There were several amounts to set BTDC ... I saw first 40°, them 30°. Whats the correct deal here?

Tkx,

Jim

BTW, thanks for the drawings.

[ipsik]

Go to http://www.rcexl.com/ there is ifo there how to time your engine see also this page http://www.rcexl.com/upfile/200994/2...1484683186.pdf for a degree wheel you can print.

[Jedijody]

Here are the instructions and degree wheel. Many of the references to timing figures in this thread are of what other users of the engine found their engines set at from the factory. Anything over 30 degrees BTDC is counter productive, 28* is best but a degree or two either way is no problem.

[wilde1j]

Tkx for the feedback.

BTW, if anyone is interested, I have created an 11 page MS Word (2003) document summarizing the most important informative posts in this thread, ID by post # and added some other key info at the top of the document. If anyone is interested. please PM me with your 'real' email address and I'll be glad to send a copy to you. I've also included the install dimensions which some kind soul (Jody) posted for me.

Jim

[3Dguy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by wilde1j
	Tkx for the feedback. BTW, if anyone is interested, I have created an 11 page MS Word (2003) document summarizing the most important informative posts in this thread, ID by post # and added some other key info at the top of the document. If anyone is interested. please PM me with your 'real' email address and I'll be glad to send a copy to you. I've also included the install dimensions which some kind soul (Jody) posted for me. Jim

Received, thanks for the effort.

[flymoor]

Thanks again I believe it is a gift to summarize all the comments by picking out those important for us, of course some will wonder why this and not that. But it is very helpful for us.

[Mattyhawk]

Thanks everyone for your help on this thread. I received my new V2 last week and just fired it up tonight. AHHHHHH so nice. This is my first gasser, so it took me a while to figure out exactly what was what, but it sprang to life with no major issues.

Like juicesueezer, it's going on a Seagull Edge 540 60, which in its previous life was a nitro. I hope it will have a happy home.

[GreyEagle]

Super post guy's : I have a couple of question's as a new owner of a CRRC 26Ei inwhich I've installled in a SeaGull YAK 54

Which seem's to be the Favored Wooden Prop : I know my Bird is a touch heavy and I really do not wish to get past the 9000 Rpm range - and wish to stay in the power band.

Secondly :

I'm running either Coleman, Ozark, or more commonly known as camper gas " white gas " in my pair Zenoah 23's used in my gasser helicopter's. along with BerRay Mc-1 at 32/1.

Reason being is that their are virtually no carbon deposits, plugs are easy to read, no fouling of the needles or fuel filter screens and no Corn Deposits !! . Best part their is no -odor what so ever.

Since this is popular in the gas Heli - circle's -- why hasn't caught on in the gasser aircraft ?? Fuel cost's ??

[Jedijody]

There are several reasons NOT to use Coleman fuel in an internal combustion engine and I cannot think of one reason to use it, and no, alcohol and odor are not reasons to use it over gasoline.

Reasons NOT to use Coleman fuel in an internal combustion engine:

No manufacturer of any IC engine endorses it's use.
Coleman themselves warns against using it in IC engines, read the label.
Octane rating of Coleman fuel can be anywhere from about 56 to around 72, very low and inconsistent.
Low octane fuel is very volatile, increases the likelihood of detonation, and burns much hotter and with higher pressures than gasoline.
It will always void the warranty of any modern model aircraft engine, yes we can tell, no I won't tell how.
The low odor can prevent the detection of a dangerous concentration of vapors if there was a spill.
Because of it's volatility, it takes a much lower concentration of vapor to pose a risk of an explosive ignition.

Reasons to use Coleman fuel in an internal combustion engine:

My friend said he heard it was okay.
It was on the internet.

Can't think of any more reasons.

I really don't care what people want to run their engines but I really don't understand how this ever got started in the first place. Maybe the fact that it's acceptable to use unleaded gasoline in a Coleman camp stove or lantern led someone to pour white gas in their vehicle when they ran out of fuel on their way home from camping. I don't know but it doesn't work both ways in this case.
I'm sure you can tell I have a strong opinion on the subject, please forgive my frankness but I hate to make weak points.

[3Dguy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jedijody
	There are several reasons NOT to use Coleman fuel in an internal combustion engine and I cannot think of one reason to use it, and no, alcohol and odor are not reasons to use it over gasoline. Reasons NOT to use Coleman fuel in an internal combustion engine: No manufacturer of any IC engine endorses it's use. Coleman themselves warns against using it in IC engines, read the label. Octane rating of Coleman fuel can be anywhere from about 56 to around 72, very low and inconsistent. Low octane fuel is very volatile, increases the likelihood of detonation, and burns much hotter and with higher pressures than gasoline. It will always void the warranty of any modern model aircraft engine, yes we can tell, no I won't tell how. The low odor can prevent the detection of a dangerous concentration of vapors if there was a spill. Because of it's volatility, it takes a much lower concentration of vapor to pose a risk of an explosive ignition. Reasons to use Coleman fuel in an internal combustion engine: My friend said he heard it was okay. It was on the internet. Can't think of any more reasons. I really don't care what people want to run their engines but I really don't understand how this ever got started in the first place. Maybe the fact that it's acceptable to use unleaded gasoline in a Coleman camp stove or lantern led someone to pour white gas in their vehicle when they ran out of fuel on their way home from camping. I don't know but it doesn't work both ways in this case. I'm sure you can tell I have a strong opinion on the subject, please forgive my frankness but I hate to make weak points.

On old fart at my field suggested using Coleman fuel. I nodded politely and backed away, slowly....

[GreyEagle]

I had my flame suit on when I posted it so no harm done / as I knew it would raise a lot of Eyebrow's !
We have also seen lots of failed motor's on gasoline " lean runs" and even on rich gasoline run's with stuck ring's using minerial based " Lawn Boy " ashless and even Amsoil and Blue Marble ect'

: Octane seems to fall in or around 85 to 88 not the 70's. You cannot run it in a four cycle " ignition valve equiped motor as you referenced !!! Contain's no - alcohol : hence no water mixed in. " E- gas " It's refined to a higher standard " purer" than gas

Their are no changing seasonal mix additives and location mixes as in gasoline. Seem's where ever your at in the country, you do not no what is in the gasoline . Most additives are introduced at the distribution point.

We tune to the plug color and engine temp and get it perfect Can tell even which way the plug is orientated in the head by the cold side " intake" and exhaust port, " hot side " Lite milk chocolate color ".

If the needles are set correctly per plug color " same a tuning gas". We have no stuck ring's, and very few clogged carb screens, unless their running a felt type clunk. No stuck seat needle's, nor blocked carbi circuits. Has not deteriorated a diaphragm. Never picking up crud in out tanks, or our jug's

Their are virtually no carbon deposits in the ports and if their are, it is usually very soft. You can swap between the fuel's without adjustments. Most started doing it do to the smell of gas in their home and see no difference in performance. Most seem to respond with : It seem's to run softer"

A few of the small engine modified blue print porting shops do not seem to have problem with it " Go -ped " industry and when the engines have been Mic'd- Out wear tolerance was nominal. They can hovever tell if it was run lean or poor mix.

I brought it up really not as promoting or shooting it down - just wondered why not ??
Same as running machined aluminum / teflon gasketed / carbi insulation blocks to prevent leakage and keep the carb cool.

Their is absolutely no way to prevent a mis adjusted motor from a lean run / or a poor lubricant package mix committed from a customer.

AP' gasser heli's major $$$$$ are running with it mainley due to carbi problem's of running gasoline - They can't glide home.

Just thought I toss it out their for discussion that all. Sorry

Heck just asking about Prop size's

[bodofish]

Now I don't claim to be an expert or chemist by any stretch of the imagination but what I've found from calling Coleman and reading a bit is, Coleman fuel, aka white gas is nothing more than highly filtered or refined (not in the cracking sence) unleaded gasoline, sans local additives, from whom ever it was purchased from before filtering and packaging. Pump gasoline in it's self is a witches brew of solvents and aliphatic resins that are brewed to behave predictably at a given temp and altitude. Defferent refineries with different refining processes make chemically different fuels, all called "unleaded gas". So I guess where ever you are, there it is. Coleman fuel will not run in an old leaded 4 cycle gas engine, for long. Hard on the top end and bad pinging. 2 cycle's don't seem to care as they don't need lead for top end lube. I don't think I'd pour it in my car, pump gas has top end lube as an additive. So let your engine mfg, warranty and your consience be your guide, because the gas you buy in L.A. is different from the gas you buy in Chicago, Miami, N.Y., Denver, Vancover, Hong Kong or London. So, where do I have to drive to get the good gas that's going to run right in my gasser??????