CRRC Pro GF26I

[Wingman26]

I know a few people who have this engine, they are happy with it, I've had some problems but believe it was due to a bad CDI unit which is being replaced, that can happen to any of them.

[Wingman26]

Installed the new ignition Jody sent me and finally got the time to try it out. As you can see the engine hand starts without any major difficulty and performs well overall, This is the first time that I haven't needed the electric starter at all! I started and stopped the engine several times during this session with no problems.

The only concern at this time shows up at 2:40 in the video, the engine quits and the elevators glitch at the same time, now its possible I was messing with the transmitter when it quit, but I'm not sure, but on the restart the elevator and ailerons glitch while the transmitter is sitting on the ground in view of the camera.

Testing my new ignition on Vimeo

At the time of the video the engine was set up exactly as Jody had suggested, ignition plugged directly into a 4.8 volt nicad pack, needles adjusted as requested and a hose clamp around the spark plug boot to ensure good contact. Later I reconnected the ignition switch and then the Opto Kill switch and the engine continued to start and run nicely.

[2robinhood]

Looks like a loose spark plug cap.
In your video, it's not just the elevator that move, you can see the rudder and ailerons and more then likely the throttle also.
The throttle twitch probally shut the engine down.
Make sure the spark plug cap is pushed all the way on.
Sometimes there are a bugger to push all the way on.
I have had to use all my strength to push it on at times.
You may think I'm gonna break something here, then you would hear it click on.

[Wingman26]

The plug cap is pushed up past the flats, and I have a hose clamp over the cap at the plug flats. I don't have any metal to metal anywhere on the plane, except the hose clamp on the metal plug cap and its tight, the throttle pushrod is metal but terminates in a plastic end.

[ipsik]

	Quote:
	The only concern at this time shows up at 2:40 in the video, the engine quits and the elevators glitch at the same time, now its possible I was messing with the transmitter when it quit, but I'm not sure, but on the restart the elevator and ailerons glitch while the transmitter is sitting on the ground in view of the camera

Make sure your radio connections are all secure and use a good quality receiver switch that doesn't cause interference with engine vibration. I had this same problem recently.

[Wingman26]

The engine was plugged directly into the battery, so the switch was out of the loop per Jody's instructions on trouble shooting the running problems I had been having, of course the switch on the flight pack could be acting up. I will go back and double check the receiver connections.

[Wingman26]

Here's a photo of the spark plug boot, if its not on far enough let me know.

[Jedijody]

Also, make sure you don't route and ignition wiring alongside any radio or servo wiring. I can't tell for sure but it looks like your ignition module is inside the engine box. If it is close to the throttle servo, Rx battery, or any other wiring that goes to the Rx it can cause RFI.

[Wingman26]

Throttle servo is right behind the engine, I tried to locate it further back but physical location and the linkage to the carb made it hard to locate elsewhere. You can see the throttle servo on the left side in the photo of the plug cap. The ignition module is located just behind the firewall, in this plane that was about the only place it would fit.

I can probably move the throttle servo, and maybe add a choke in the throttle servo extension to help filter out glitches.

[Jedijody]

Add the choke and separate ignition related wiring as far as possible from anything going to the Rx. Is it possible to mount the ignition on the left side of the engine box, outside of the fuse?

[Wingman26]

The only place to mount the ignition outside the fuselage is under the engine box, directly behind the cylinder, I thought that might be too hot there.

There isn't enough room on top of the engine box or on the sides for the ignition.

[Wingman26]

Here's the latest update, I tested it today with the ignition switch plugged in and it was still experiencing glitches, so I unplugged the switch and plugged the battery directly into the ignition unit and it didn't glitch in about 6 minutes of running, so I guess I need to replace the switch. I have moved the throttle servo per Jody's recommendations, and installed a ferrite ring choke in the throttle servo lead.

This afternoon I replaced the ignition power switch, but I haven't had a chance to test it yet.

Test Run April 25, 2010 on Vimeo

[Wingman26]

Here it is just 3 days earlier, the throttle servo moved back, a ferrite ring choke installed in the extension to the throttle servo, the ignition power switch and Opto Kill are both hooked up, it was real bad that day.

YouTube- Engine Test 4 22 2010

[Wingman26]

Ok, for the latest installment. I replaced the ignition power switch, started it up and it was glitching...so I disconnected the new power switch, this short video is with the battery plugged directly into the ignition unit, and its still glitching!

I notice that its most likely to glitch when the engine vibration is at a peak, that's when it really acts up.

So what is left? The only metal to metal that I can think of is that funny little second throttle arm that CRRC puts on their Walbro carbs, maybe I can figure out a way to get around that. I might try a different receiver, I've got a 7000 in it, I could probably try a 6200 I've got.

YouTube- Engine test 4 27 2010

[Jedijody]

Your videos are great but can you take some pictures of the engine installation and the inside of the fuselage from as many angles as necessary to see everything as well as possible. We can't really see how things are routed or set up.