CRRC Pro GF26I

[fatcat1]

Yes after more research I agree I am going to opt for a Saito 125 or something in that neighborhood or a large 2 stroke.
Now I just have to track down the above mentioned engines!

[The_Tinker]

You reckon this thing would be too hot for a kit-built Great Planes Super Skybolt? From what I can find a 120 Saito is a very good engine for it but I really don't care for large glow engines...

[rcflyersat]

I'm planning to put my crrc 26cc pro in a 1/4 scale Sig Spacewalker. Think that'd be okay?

Bryan

[ilias]

i broke my exhaust. How can i repair it??

[Wingman26]

When I broke off the extension on the muffler on mine, I ordered a replacement from Jody at Valley View RC, he got it right out to me.

[bob21]

valleyview does not seem to work the web site that is ,,, i need a new muffler any one got one to sell

[wilde1j]

Try calling @ (253) 875-6890

[Ken Park]

You can get part and engines at Paragon RC - Excellent service 5 stars from me so far

http://www.prcmodel.com/modeng/name/...rod/product/14

http://www.prcmodel.com/modeng/name/...ore/category/8

I also am mounting a 26 CRRC into a 1/4scale Spacewalker II - Hope to turn motor over for first time after work today! - I had to make a 1/4" ply box to extend the firewall 1-1/4" so the engine fit the cowel. The box was mounted too the firewall using 4 x 1/4" hardwood dowels and its all epoxied into place. Glassed the box also. I'll post photo's when I can

Flew the model last night - Wow you got power - model easily cruised around at 1/3 throttle - Batteries had to be moved behind the trailing edge of wing - under the rear cockpit for proper balance

[donho1]

Hello! I'm new to this site and need help....I've been flying nitro for a long time and this is my first gas plane I have a CRRC Pro GF26I that i want to mount in a Seagull Space Walket 120 and dont know where to drill the holes for the standoff's...the fire wall only has the hole for the fuel tank and all the manuel on the SW 120 says is " make a template of your engine on paper..mark and drill 4 holes for engine mount insert blind nuts to firewall "
Well i dont understand how to do this and line the engine up with the center of the cowl.
Any help would be apreciated...

Thanks
'

[edwal07]

There is a + mark on the firewall drawn vertically and horizonally. The hole in the firewall is not the center of the engine mount as the right thrust will offset the rear of the engine. Mark your mounting holes of your engine on a piece of paper centered on the back of the case then line up the + marks and drill your holes. This should line up your cowl and engine. What I did on all my CRRC pro engines is mark the back of the case. Find the center of the case, draw your vertical and horz. lines on the case, draw your lines on a piece of paper and center it over the back case, mark the mounting holes, mark top and bottom on the paper as the mounting holes on the engine are not the same on top and bottom. Then transfer the template to match the marks on the firewall and drill your holes. I have had to make longer standoffs on each engine, usually from 1" to 1 1/4" to achieve the correct measurement. You can use square hardwood blocks for this purpose along with the standoffs supplied with the engine.

[GreyEagle]

Guy's I've a fairly new CRRC 26 I ordered up from Jody this spring and have got around 8 great flights on it and really very satisfied. Lil sucker is an animal.

My question : I think I may have a flake y ignition module. For a bit it would intermittently cut out on the starting bench and a few time we even got a belch and a brief run backwards.

What we do notice : that we will see the optical kill switch flicker on and off a bit during the attack of the demon's.

We have the module nested deep in soft foam - theirs no strain on the inductive pick up, or high tension lead, the shield cap is on tight and no strain on the current lead going into the module.

The problem kinda cure's itself if you lightly press on the plastic module box.

Are these known to have cold solder joints inside the module, or a few defective ignition's???

Kinda spooky / not sure to either buy a new ignition, or another motor because of the cost value of the ignition box.

ANy Other Experiences on the Phenomenon ???

Fun lil motor

[Jedijody]

If the LED is flickering it is probably the Opto-Kill, disconnect it and see if it's repeatable without it. The LED only goes out if it's not sending power to the ignition.

[GreyEagle]

Won't the light go out if the circuit is open with in in the ignition box / like a cold solder joint ? not shaking hand's so to speak with the circuit ?? It only flicker's with a case of the mis -fit's when running. Lead's me to believe its a bad solder joint

We can cure it on demand by just pressing gently on the box cover. Box sensitive.

When it start's again its pretty easy to by pass / Ill just by pass it and see.

[3Dguy]

Opto-kill seems to be the issue...

[ec121]

RCATS sells a relay type switch instead of an opto-isolated type. Fails closed with signal loss. Might try one of them.