Base Coat / Clear Coat with Dave Jones (DSP Builders)

[Rolling Thunder]

Can you give a brief discussion on buffing? What products do you use?

[Windecker]

Dave, thanks for the paint thread! I have been using Imron and Jet Glow forever since I use them in my full scale applications. They look great but are a major pain! Reading this has convinced me to move on (at least with the models). I have to paint and wait over a week before taping for the next color or the fineline eats into the paint a little. Your painting three colors in a day, crud!
Also, the BVM pin hole filler---home run! I have been using feather fill which gets all sanded off, 2 applications, 2 days apart minimum, 5 hours of sanding each time...
Your stuff always looks great, thanks again!
Will B.

[rnav]

	Quote: Originally Posted by DSP Lonnie
	Dude, Thats profound! Oh and by the way when I get to Toledo we need to talk about that set of wheel pants. $28.00 + interest + stress + humiliation for not having any on my plane + shipping to Wyoming + my drive to Toledo to collect + trash pick for the box they came in + the aggravation I have had to live with when my wife found out I gave you my pants! So the way I have it figured you owe me around $28,752.23. Yep that sounds about right. See ya at Toledo Jeff. Lonnie

Lonnie... it sounds like I suck.

[Dsp Dave]

Jeff your out!!

[Hinckley Bill]

Hey DSP Dave,

Just happened upon your "seminar" and additional informational posts and all I can say is thank you, thank you, thank you....

It really becomes abundantly clear that a truly great paint job is not something that can be gotten right out of a can. Preparation, hard work and a willingness to go the extra mile is what one better be ready to do to get the end results that you show.

Bill

[saddler]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rnav
	Lonnie... it sounds like I suck.

About time you admitted it!

[Temptation]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder
	Can you give a brief discussion on buffing? What products do you use?

When I get home from work, I can let you guys know what I use, I'll have to look at the bottle. It's a 3M product, and is designed to be used by hand. I like to buff my planes by hand to be sure I don't burn through the clear. I use very little clear to keep the weight down. I also like to buff the clear about 24 hours after it had been applied. If you let it dry for a couple of days, it may be to hard to buff by hand.

I sand the clear with 1500 wet paper until it is dull and smooth, then hand buff it with the product listed below.

The rubbing compound I use is 3M Perfect-It II. Part # -05973. I have had very good luck with this product. I have never used it after the clear has been dry more than 24 hours. If you wait longer, you may need to get a compound that is a little more agressive to achieve the same results.

Mike Darr

[paffy]

Dave,

you say 30 minutes to taping for DBC. What tape time do you recommend for DBU ? Are there any possible "gotchas" with taping ?

I'm getting ready to paint next week myself ....

Thanks,
P.

[Temptation]

Paffy, DBU is the same. I have always waited 45 minutes before taping, but I am sure 30 minutes would be fine.

Mike Darr

[Dsp Dave]

	Quote: Originally Posted by paffy
	Dave, you say 30 minutes to taping for DBC. What tape time do you recommend for DBU ? Are there any possible "gotchas" with taping ? I'm getting ready to paint next week myself .... Thanks, P.

DBC dries completely in 30 minutes to an hour and can be handled and taped on after that. I use 3M fine line tape to make the design and 3M green automotive masking tape to cover the rest. DBU takes anywhere between 12 and 24 hours to dry enough to tape on. Thats the main reason I use DBC base coat clear coat, I don't like to wait! As far as gotchas with tape all I can tell you is spend the money on good tape it will make your life so much easier.

[Dsp Dave]

As far as buffing goes I like to wait at least 48 to 72 hours before I Buff the paint. I wet sand everything with 2000 grit sandpaper then start hand buffing with Fine Cut rubbing compound. I do this several times until the shine is almost completely back then I switch to swirl mark remover and hand buff with that until all marks are gone or my arm falls off which ever comes first! Last I hand wax it with a good wax and buff to a shine. It's alot of work but well worth it.

[EJB]

Dave, when you put down the fine line tape on the cowl do you have a template or have lines drawn on that you follow or is it all "freehand"?

[Dsp Dave]

	Quote: Originally Posted by EJB
	Dave, when you put down the fine line tape on the cowl do you have a template or have lines drawn on that you follow or is it all "freehand"?

All freehand. Its easy to get the first side, its making the other side match thats hard.

[paffy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dsp Dave
	DBC dries completely in 30 minutes to an hour and can be handled and taped on after that. I use 3M fine line tape to make the design and 3M green automotive masking tape to cover the rest. DBU takes anywhere between 12 and 24 hours to dry enough to tape on. Thats the main reason I use DBC base coat clear coat, I don't like to wait! As far as gotchas with tape all I can tell you is spend the money on good tape it will make your life so much easier.

Interesting ...

The DBU product sheet says 45 minutes to tape time. It also lays emphasis on clearing within 24 hours. I'm confused . I guess I'll shoot the white base first and stick it under a IR lamp, then try taping a test piece shortly after.

P.

[Dsp Dave]

	Quote: Originally Posted by paffy
	Interesting ... The DBU product sheet says 45 minutes to tape time. It also lays emphasis on clearing within 24 hours. I'm confused . I guess I'll shoot the white base first and stick it under a IR lamp, then try taping a test piece shortly after. P.

You should be fine then I was thinking the DBU was the concept paint. Like I said before I haven't seen the DBU, my paint store carries the DBC and I am not sure of the major differances. Sorry!