Who makes the Best Pull-Pull Cable??

[cloudshaker]

I'm building a 40% Yak and I'd like to know opinions on the best pull-pull cable. The yak has a huge rudder so I'd like the strongest cable with the least stretch possible. Thanks for any suggestions.

[snap a saurus]

Nelson Hobby
Stainless steel cable, 0.032 inch diameter, 7 strand, item L127, it comes 24ft long per package, that is what I use in all my 40%, good luck.

[Stainless Skills]

If you call donalds hobby shop you can order this black nylon coated kevlar pull pull cable that is very thick and strong. It is much much thicker than the Troy built models kevlar cable and then to boot it is coated in nylon so there is no possible way for it to fray. It is very easy to crimp and never stretches.

[KrisW]

I gave up on cables years ago . .too springy. I use .040-.060" CF Rods for my pull pull, indestructible, extremely stiff, and no springiness, stretch, slack, or breakage. .ever.

One thing I've found, cables need tension in order to stay tight. With CF rods all you need to do is match length exactly, no pre-tensioning of the rods like you have to do with cables. It makes things easier on the servos/belcrank/rudder hinges/airfame IMO.

At 300,000 lbs tensile strength, a .050 Cf rod provides up to 590 lbs of tensile strength before failure. You could go with .030" and it's still twice as strong as cables.

[TonyThomasian]

I like using fishing line.. 120lb test line.. Coated wire. A LOT cheaper than buying wire from any hobby shop.. IMO

[BAS]

I also have used Dons Hobby cable , it doesnt stretch and is easy to crimp and set up.

[rdgood]

120 lb test fishing leader with Berkely crimps - I have used this on 5 different airplanes with no problems.

The airframe will come apart before the cable does.

Ronster

[Bruce]

Sorry, in my experience over several planes the Kevlar cable does stretch. Use the plastic coated fishing leader by Berkley as recommended by Ron G. Make sure you double it through the crimps.

[TheTank]

i use fishing leader cable as well since I always have some around with my saltwater fishing gear!

[BTerry]

	Quote: Originally Posted by KrisW
	I gave up on cables years ago . .too springy. I use .040-.060" CF Rods for my pull pull, indestructible, extremely stiff, and no springiness, stretch, slack, or breakage. .ever. One thing I've found, cables need tension in order to stay tight. With CF rods all you need to do is match length exactly, no pre-tensioning of the rods like you have to do with cables. It makes things easier on the servos/belcrank/rudder hinges/airfame IMO.

Kris,
Do you set up your rods the same as cables, i.e. same angles, crossed rods, same horns, etc?

I hate the stress placed on airframes by taut cables so I usually disconnect one cable when I park the planes. I have had a rudder servo rip out on more than one occasion and this would certainly eliminate that. Of course, the offsets may need to be more precise with rods versus cables if the rods are held rigid.

Thanks,
Brett

[3ddd]

ace hardware,1/16th garage door opener cable,4 4/40 dubro threaded couplers and you got it for under 6 bucks

[KrisW]

	Quote: Originally Posted by BTerry
	Kris, Do you set up your rods the same as cables, i.e. same angles, crossed rods, same horns, etc? I hate the stress placed on airframes by taut cables so I usually disconnect one cable when I park the planes. I have had a rudder servo rip out on more than one occasion and this would certainly eliminate that. Of course, the offsets may need to be more precise with rods versus cables if the rods are held rigid. Thanks, Brett

I just set them up the same way most people do cables, Brett, and I use guides to prevent abrasion of the rods where they exit the fuselage. I've done them in both "X", and straight style, depending on how the plane was best suited to run cables/rods to the tail.

Offset does need to be closer in tolerance, but as long as the trailing rod does not have undue "slack", which will force it to bow a bit, there is no problem. I try to set them up for zero offset, however, just a teensy bit of "slack" is not harmful on the trailing side. Tension on the trailing side will mean something is going to get damaged, and is to be avoided at all costs since the CF does not give.

There are a number of different threaded end attachment techniques I use, my favorite being to use a brass threaded end that would be solder to a steel rod, fill it with JB Weld or thick CA, then slide the CF rod into it and crimp the hollow area lightly with a pair of dull side-cutter pliers, just enough to crimp the metal onto the CF rod, but not enough to cut it. Doing this in about 8 places, four on the "X" axis (looking at it from the end) and four on the "Y", staggered between the two axes, will make it literally impossible to pull the CF rod out of the threaded end without breaking something.

I do slightly preload the rods, about 1/16" of tension for the last ball link that has a bolt go through it, but this is merely to pre-load the linkages and pads on the servos and rudder horns. After that, it's like the rudder is attached directly to the servo. Zero slop, no wobble, no flutter, and very precise.

[cloudshaker]

	Quote: Originally Posted by snap a saurus
	Nelson Hobby Stainless steel cable, 0.032 inch diameter, 7 strand, item L127, it comes 24ft long per package, that is what I use in all my 40%, good luck.

Elie,
According to Nelson Hobby their supplier has discontinued pull pull cable alltogether. I called to order some rocket city hardware and found this out today.

By the way, you guys that use the fishing leader, do you have a part number, or pic? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Thanks guys for all your help.

[topgun130643]

Has anybody used spider wire fishing line? Ron you can get any kind of fishing leader at Gradys in Anderson.

[cloudshaker]

Topgun,
I called Gradys earlier and they said the didn't carry it but I could drive to the coast and probably find some.