RH1NO Desinged and Built Kill switch goes into Testing

[rcdart]

I just installed a Rh1no Kill in my new 40% C-ARF 260, set up was a breeze, after plugging into my RX, all that was required was to reverse the direction in my TX for that channel so that the switch operated in the direction I desired, that was it, awesome!

Jeremy, big thanks go out to you, guy's like you are what keeps this hobby getting better and better, through inovation and a desire to achieve, we end up with better stuff for our toys.

[RH1N0]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jonathan Ott
	RH1N0, do you have a USD price on 'em? Or are these exclusive to you guys in Oz? Jon

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3ddd
	yes let us -us- guys know something.i would like to run these in my imac stuff next year

I am happy to supply to the US and the broader RC community.

AUD price is $69 plus $5 P&H so USD price should be $59 and I think I can ship for $8 via Australia Post air mail with delivery in 4-6 working days.

I haven't sent one overseas yet so I guess I'll just have to try it and see how it goes. What could possibly go wrong?

Cheers
Jeremy

[GregA]

Jeremy
Will this switch work with a Zenoah G45?
Cheers Greg

[RH1N0]

	Quote: Originally Posted by GregA
	Jeremy Will this switch work with a Zenoah G45? Cheers Greg

Hi Greg,

The switch is designed to work with battery powered electronic ignition units such as DA, 3W, MVVS, RCXL etc..

I'm not very familiar with Zenoah engines but if your ignition is like the one pictured, where the engine is stopped by grounding the primary coil, then this switch is not designed for that purpose. The Setco switch might be an option as it has a mechanical relay with normally open and normally closed contacts but I would give Desert Aircraft Australia a call and see what Howie recommends.

Cheers
Jeremy

[GregA]

Thanks Jeremy
Will give him a call next week.
Cheers Greg

[RustyTumbles]

I have used a setco switch on a G38 before. From memory I just wired it up backwards.

[lil-redrex]

..

[RH1N0]

A couple of guys asked about a remote LED so I have been doing a little testing. I tried a couple of fiber optic light extensions but wasn't happy with the light loss or the extra stress it would put on the PCB. So I went with a hard wired option.

It consists of a small (3mm) LED on a 10cm lead which is hard wired to the switch PCB. As with the other leads, the wire is very well supported at the PCB to prevent fatigue failure. The LED is mounted via a small bezel which requires a 4mm hole in the side of your plane.

This is just a 1 off trial at the moment and I don't plan to change my original design. Most people find that it only takes a few flights to get used to the switch operation and then they have no need for a remote LED.

Pics:

[3drat]

looks great rhino i like that idea keep up the good work.
a mate of mine should be ringing you for a kill for his 33% ulti..his name is alex.
i love my rhino kill

[RH1N0]

Here is a basic test/installation example with the multi meter connected in place of the ignition.

As pictured, you could connect a 3W ignition directly to the kill switch output as it can handle the voltage of the Li-Ion directly. For DA ignition, you could connect a regulator between the kill switch output and the ignition (I am using this configuration with a Power Box reg in my plane). Or you could use a standard 4.8V (or 6V) receiver pack or one of the new A123 packs without a regulator.

If you buy an ignition battery with dual leads, you can have a dedicated charge lead which can be mounted on the side of your plane via an Ernst Charge jack.

I buy my Fromeco Li-Ion and Ni-Mh packs with dual leads from Desert Aircraft Australia.

[RH1N0]

This pic shows the switch being tested under a 1A load. The Battery checker is showing voltage and the multi meter is showing current.

Note that the ignition battery needs to be recharged as it is under the 7V "no fly" limit.

[RH1N0]

Same test as per the previous pic but now the kill switch has been turned off at the radio transmitter. This shows one of the most significant features of this switch - it draws zero current from the ignition battery when the kill switch is off.

Note that the multi meter is now showing micro amps.

There is no need to fit a separate mechanical switch or to disconnect the ignition battery at the end of each flying day because this kill switch will not drain the ignition battery when your plane is in storage.

If you still want to connect a mechanical switch then it should be placed between the ignition battery and switch input and this will allow you to charge the ignition battery through the switch charge jack.

**
That's all I have for tonight and I have tried to cover some of the most common questions I have received. I hope the above info makes sense and can be a good guide for anyone planning their switch install. I could probably make a short video of how I test the switch calibration and the auto kill function. Anyone interested?

[DesertHucker]

RHiNO,
3W new ignition v4.4 states not to use a high impedance switch.

"Electronic ignition switches:

Please just use the special aligned 3W switch. Hi-impedance switches from other companys will cause problems
with the integrated microprocessor"

What would the impedance be of your switch?

[RH1N0]

This switch has a low impedance, equivalent to a mechanical relay or switch.

I am guessing 3W's reference to a low impedance switch is because the ignition current will surge as the spark energy is stored and then discharged. A high impedence switch would resist this surging and probably reduce the ability for the ignition to develop full spark energy in the short time between discharges. Maybe the micro is prone to reset if there is a resulting voltage sag.

My switch is being used on a number of 3W ignitions and no issues so far.

[itai]

RH1NO
is it ready for sale?
i am iterested in one

itai