3W 106 "Missing"

[cap231jim]

Does anyone have any experience with the ignition modules going bad on the 3W 106? My 106 is 2 years old and has about 47 gallons through it. It was broken in to the letter "by the book" per Aircraft International reccomendations. It has had similar issues from day one.

It runs really rough above half throttle, like it's "missing". Last season a new ignition module seemed to fix the problem; now it's back. The plugs were changed this season and yes the battery is fully charged. The high speed needle has no effect on the situation (tried slightly leaner and richer).

Is it normal to change the ignition module every other season or should it last for the life of the engine?

This engine has NEVER run smooth and right now I would be hard pressed to buy another 3W.

Any help would be appreciated.

Jim

[torquen]

When you say slightly richer/ and leaner maybe thats not enough. Sounds to me like your running rich and you need to lean it out. If a new ignition did not fix the problem and its always done this I think you have a tuning issue. You may also have an airflow issue. Try running the carb vent tube into the fuse.
Garrett

[Tired Old Man]

I'm not going to, I'm not going to, I'm not going to....No, I can't tell him, I just can't. Someone else can tell him about all the people that have dumped the 3w ignition for CH and DA units, I won't.

[bosshoss]

When I got my 3W 106 from a friend...he told me..get the curved velocity stack form AI ..it is needed.

Still , I have not used the motor...it was a great deal, and it sits in the box.

[cap231jim]

Thanks for the response.

Garrett,
I am running the carb static line into the fuse. I've also tried the 3W "snorkle" but that does not help.

Silversurfer,
Sounds like there may be an issue here with the 3W ignition modules. I'm not sure of the CH ignition brand; but is the DA ignition "plug and play" on the 3W?

Jim

[Mark Davis]

No, the DA, CH or Falcon ignition modules are not "plug & play"... The plug from the ign sensor on the crank needs to be rewired for 3rd party ign modules...

In using both the 3W velocity stack or not, I've always had stumbling problems on takeoff roll... Static tube into the fuse never helped... Cutting the c**p out of my cowl to allow for the velocity stack did not help... BTW, you lose 200 rpm when using the velocity stack too and transition is not as crisp... Once in the air, the 106 performed well... That is until it got good and hot, leaned out on the bottom end and stopped running at the most inopportune times...

Be careful of the "lean it out" recommendation... I was chided by a certain 3W sponsored pilot with ties to a certain Chinese ARF manufacturer when questioning this logic... So I leaned out the bottom end... This advice has almost cost me an airframe more than once...

[Dan767]

Check for air leaks on this engine. The carb, the block, the reeds. They need to have a good seal for a good running engine. Take off the carb and the block clean it up, put it back together. The four bolts holding the Ryton block and reeds to the engine need to be fairly tight, just don't over tighten and break the block. Look for hairline cracks in the Ryton (carb) block (that's the black one, the old engine had a brown phonolic) along the bolt holes using a magnifying glass. Check the torque on the cylinder heads too. Air leaks can make this engine run awful, and be impossible to tune.

If you have the old ignition, (black wire) not the IIS (multi ribbon wire), it's not that great. Changing to the IIS requires a new hub, that's why the older engines went with DA or CH, no hub change needed.

[rcign]

SilverSurfer KNOWS about 3W engines and ignitions....
Better than anyone else, "sponsored" pilots included...
Just for kicks, try turning the snorkel around, I got 200 MORE rpm that way....You still need to connect the tubing to the carb fitting....

[wingburner]

Dang Ralph, I never thought of that ...Maybe all my tuning issues will go away ...

[Vic3D]

	Quote: Originally Posted by silversurfer
	I'm not going to, I'm not going to, I'm not going to....No, I can't tell him, I just can't. Someone else can tell him about all the people that have dumped the 3w ignition for CH and DA units, I won't.

Maybe on the old ignitions. The 3W ignitions right now are the best.

[torquen]

capt231, if you dint think its a tuning issue then you may want to call up your dealer and see about getting a new ignition or possibly get the caps replaced. You have a 3 year warranty on this so it should not be a problem. If it is call up Bobby at Cactus Aviation and he will get you hooked up and ready to go.
Garrett Morrison

[wingburner]

I must add that I have not had an ignition problem with the new ignitions if they are mounted correctly

[sweetpea]

My question is what batteries are you running?

a New 3W ignition does not require a regulator and needs more than 4.8V

I also found that on my 106 ignition a brand new 5cell NIMH wasn't putting the amps into the ignition. After about 5mins of flight I would get the "missing" sound. I switched to an unregulated LIPO (2400 7.4v) and had no more problems

[cap231jim]

I really appreciate the responses all...

Dan,
I will look for air leaks in the carb assembly; and I am running the new ignition.

Sweatpea,
I'm running a 7.4V unregulated lithium pack....

Garrett,
This one came from Aircraft International. I always thought the cap assembly was a weak point in the 3W ignition module....

I'll be borrowing a friend's ignition module Sunday to see if I can rule that out.

Jim

[bosshoss]

Do I have the old or new ignition? ,..here:


There is a 6V sticker on it, but the previous owner said to run a 7.4 Li-ion. What do you think is right, Garrett??

The velocity stack forward is cool, I will run a screen. We have cottonwoods that snow all over us ....