Aviation Design(Godfrey) 35% Extra 260 BUILD THREAD

[GremlinX]

OK... lets tidy up and complete these before we cover them... We need to heat up a 3/8" rod from Lowes or Home Depot. Do not use all thread... just get the plain cold rolled steel rod and a torch . I taped the wing to the wall in the garage. I then heated the rod and ease it down a few inches, back up, reheat, and use the wall as a reference to keep it straight and level. I did cut the servo tray sheeting away so I could see the rod and know when I got to the second tray. I had never done this and hit them both close enough. Repeat for the rear stabs... same thing. This is an easy process..

[GremlinX]

This is finished other than cutting out the servo hole and sanding the sheeting over the ply flush with the regular sheeting...

[GremlinX]

I used Klett style hinges and MonoKote.. I fought the monokote hard until I learned to really stretch it not be afraid of heat... again, my first covering job... don't hound me too bad!

A few of it in the bones, but pre-covered...

[GremlinX]

So far, to get it in the bones, you are looking at about 20 hours of labor... not counting dry time and so forth. You are really going to fly through this thing. I am not rushing it, but it builds very quickly...

[GremlinX]

OK, I have the nerve to now cut a huge piece of MonoKote for the fuses... sigh... here we go... The top piece(black) is all one piece... no splices. The bottom (silver) is also one piece... no splices.... Sheew. I did it the hard way, but the Turtle deck has 0 seams.. I think this looks cleaner.

[GremlinX]

I must be boring...

[ShortBus]

Covering looks good Keith!! Better than anything I could do.

[GremlinX]

Ok... I am doing the wings...

[maeu2003]

Its looking really nice. I like the colors on the fuse.

[GremlinX]

more.... hope somebody is enjoying it...


Here I am showing the can tunnel I built. The plane is not built for cans, but easily has room and accepts them. Because I did not feel good hacking on the motor box, I ran longer drop headers to avoid cutting the box or mounting the cans higher. I took what was easier to me personally. So, the headers don't have to stick out if you want to make a higher tunnel and cut the bottom of the motor box....

[GremlinX]

Time to do the cowl... I am bit ashamed of my work here. I had to redo it 3 times. It was a mess. I had never worked with glass before and learned a lot... the hard way...

[ilovemetro]

	Quote: Originally Posted by GremlinX
	I must be boring...

I don't think anyone can keep up with you!!!!

[GremlinX]

It was such a pain in the ass to keep the cloth from folding over, sliding down, wadding up,etc, that I CA tacked it to the cowl. That was a mistake. Now, I am going to have to sand the glass off the outside. It'll be fine, but it created more work for me in the long run. It was worth it, but whao.. Tony makes it look easy. Maybe it is easy, but it was a learning curve. I might have used balsa baffles if I did it again.

[GremlinX]

Robert Godfrey makes a very nice glass set. The pants and cowl are very nice and are in near prime ready shape. He makes a nice little scale intake/air cleaner duct in the front of the cowl, but I had to cut it out. The DA's intake with carb sticks off the motor by exactly 33". So, I had to hack up the nice scale intake "look". It was right where the carb should be. I will have the glass/paint guy just contour this in flush with the cowl. I don't need that kind of air blowing in on that much carburetor at that angle. I can see problems here. The carb will fit in the cowl, you just have to remove that intake duct.

[ilovemetro]

Great work. I think you lied about only making 1 other kit in your life haha