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Old 06-25-2007, 09:55 PM   #46
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

To get the exact location, slide in the tubes and eyeball it from the end, and mark the center of the tube on the bottom of the stab. Drill a 1/16 hole first just in case you have to 'pull' the hole a little bit to get it in the center of the tube.

Once happy with that, go ahead and drill the appropiate drill size to accomodate a 4-40 allen head screw...I drilled mine where it was just a snug fit, there will be a 4-40 blind nut installed on the inside of the tube...to prevent the hole from elongating over time. The blind nuts are installed upside down and JB Weld was used to secure them inside the tube....be sure to scuff up the inside of the tube as well as the blindnut before applying the JB Weld...also, put a dab of oil on the threads of the screw to prevent it from gluing to the tube and blindnut.
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Old 06-25-2007, 10:05 PM   #47
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

The last two pics show the measurement from the end of the stab tube to the hole we just drilled, not even close to 3/8" as depicted in the instructions...so just be sure to hold the stab up to a bright light to verify before drilling holes.

The next pic shows the blindnut installed being held in position witha 4-40 allen head screw while the JB Weld dries. I had located and installed the stab tubes in one stab half before mounting on the fuse...once the one stab was completed, it is slid onto the fuse and the other stab slid into position...put the plane upside down and drill the holes through the stab all the way through the tubes to accomodate the 4-40 screw. Take the stab off and deburr the hole, business as usual.

Once that is done...the stabs can be installed for good on the fuse...however; I willl eave mine off until I locate the rudder cable exits on the fuse sides...I would have done this before the stabs, but I have not ordered the rudder tray and servos as of yet.
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Old 06-25-2007, 10:08 PM   #48
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Thats probably it for this week, as I am getting ready to go to the Nats...practice is in order as going out once week is not getting it

Until then...
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:05 PM   #49
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Time for an update. Been really motivated lately to get this plane done...just not enough hours in the day OK...the stabs were done and are now set aside....I have been contemplating on wether or not to redo the stabs with only one servo per stab half...an 8711....still debating on that. I have talked to alot of people and evryone believes that one servo per stab half would be the way to go...and to help elimate some of the weight out of tail. I was told that Gernot runs one 8711 per stab, and 2 per aileron with no issues...and we all know how Gernot flies

On that note, I have rearranged the wing servos. As shown earlier, I had two servos per wing..Inboard and Middle positions....I have changed that to the Inboard and Outboard positions.

So, what have I gotten done. Well, the first on the list is the locating of the cowl. Which should be done before mating the engine to the firewall. Nothing oout of the ordinary here...6ea 4-40 bolts and blindnuts. When doing this, it is recomended to have the hatch in position so you know how to angle and postion the cowl.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:17 PM   #50
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Once you got the cowl pretty much located, mind you that I did not glue in any hardpoints yet for the cowl...just in case I need some minor changes along the way, you can locate the engine. They recomend 3deg of right thrust and 1deg of up thrust...which is REALLY good for starting out, I found that I may have added a hair of right thrust after intial flight tests on my other Katana.

I had my buddy Wayne Mathews come over to assist me with this step. We had drawn the center line on the firewall, and then measure over roughly .40 for the offset. We slid the engine in and attached the cowl, eyeballed the engine to line up with the front of the cowling, made some marks. Removed everything and took an SWB motor mount and proceded to locate the mount...after all said and done...the measurments given were dead on.

You will find that you will need to trim the side of the firwall to clear the engine cylinder, nothing major, just take a dremel tool and go to it.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:29 PM   #51
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

After that, I went ahead and cut the openings in the fuse to accomodate the headers to enter into the fuse...I am using MTW 70mm drop flex headers and KS95 Cans, which is currently on my other Katana. I could not locate the canister mounts as I have not recieved the cans yet, should Tuesday.

So, I proceded to tackel the canopy/hatch. My plane came with the silver carbon fiber canopy that was already attached from the factory. I prefer the clear canopy, and its also a rule in the IMAC handbook to have a pilot and dash visible I had called Philip Barnet at Skyline Aviation and with no questions asked, proceded to order me a clear canopy. This worked out good...now, once I remove the carbon canopy, it will serve as a canopy helmet

The carbon canopy was removed by using hot knife for a nice smooth cut.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:37 PM   #52
lockjaw-express
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Xtra 330,

What kind of a Hot Knife did you use?

I am now thinking of doing the same to my Katana.

Also, what degree SWB mount did you use for your DA-150? Are useing a two blade or 3 blade prop?

Sorry for the questions.

Best Regards, Mark
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:41 PM   #53
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

After the carbon canopy was removed, I had taken a dremel tool and sanded smooth and evenly the carbon fiber on the inside of the hatch, which needs to be this way as the clear canopy will rest on the inside...similar to the CA line.

I had taken the carbon canopy and laid it upon the clear canopy and added an additional 3/4" around to allow for gluing area...I had also used the hotknife to cut the clear canopy from the big extruded piece it arrived in. Not ready to tackle this yet...I proceded to attach the canopy/hatch to the fuse.

Krill recomends to attach this BIG frame with 4ea 4-40 bolts and some 'hooks' to slide in the fuse frame...sort a like they use on jets. This technique is currently being used my other Katana, and over 300 flights later, it is still holding up...but it does vibrate and rattle when the engine is running...not bad at all in the air, but on the ground...whew.

So, on this plane I decided to attach the canopy/hatch in the traditional way. I have 4 tabs on each side of the hatch to accept 4-40 bolts. On the tabs are 4-40 blind nuts.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:50 PM   #54
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

I first took the supplied hardpoints and glued them in the fuse, came back and drilled a hole to accomodate a 4-40 bolt. I then cut a slot on the top of the fuse to allow a 1/8" piece of birch to slide in (this will be attached to the frame).

After that, I took the hatch and taped it in position on the fuse. Took a pencil and marked from inside the fuse the slots I had just cut onto the canopy hatch. Remove and cut slots in teh hatch....make these as small as possible to keep a snug fit for the tabs.
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:52 PM   #55
lockjaw-express
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Hi Joe,

Thank you for the help!

Are you going to run the long Greve's pipes like Jason Noll had in his plane?

I only fly 3D so would you still run the 3 blade propeller? I am thinking about ordering a spinner from Phillip, one that I can paint.

BR, Mark


PS: What kind of hot knife did you use to remove the canopy?
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Old 07-15-2007, 10:01 PM   #56
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

The next step is to make all the tabs with the 4-40 blindnuts. Attach these tabs to the fuse, and then slide your canopy/frame over them...should be asnug fit and you may have to trim just a hair to get it to fit properly. Work your way from the back to the front and take CA glue and just put a few drops and cure the glue with some kicker ASAP.

Remove the hatch, now the tabs are a part of it. I made some doublers to slide over the tabs on the hatch, 1/32" ply and glued these on with 15 minute epoxy, microballoons and milled fiberglass. I used some small clamps to hold them down until cured.
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Old 07-15-2007, 10:08 PM   #57
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Those last two pics show 3ea locations on one side of the cowl. The screw at the very front is securing the lower cowl to the upper half.

The other pic shows the SWB motor mount...3deg. And also shows the trimming of the fuse/firewall to clear the engine cylinder.

The only thing left on this is to secure the canopy to the hatch. I do believe that I am going to tackle the rudder tray next, and when the cans come in...knock out the canister mount.

I also ordered a RC blimpro tailwheel, nothing wrong with the stock one...as the other Katana is using one.

I am also going to set the wing incedence sometime this week...

until then,
Joe
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Old 07-15-2007, 10:13 PM   #58
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Hi Mark,

I am using the SWB 3deg motor mount. The KS 95 front exaust cans. I am currently fying the 28.5x12 three blade. I use to fly and recomend the 30x12 Mej two blade.

If your interested in the 3D, I would go with the 2 blade...but the three blade will do just as well, just a matter of what your used to.

I contemplated on the Greves, but decided against them. As once the new DA170 is released, it will find a home on this plane!!

Let me know if I can help out, Take care.

Joe
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Old 07-15-2007, 10:15 PM   #59
xtra330
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Mark, the hot knife is made by Dremel, but other companies make them...is a must working on these carbonfiber/kevlar planes.

Joe
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Old 07-15-2007, 11:06 PM   #60
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Default Re: Krill 39% Katana-build/finish

Joe, the plane is coming along awesome!! I think it speaks volumes for the Krill, that you (an outstanding builder) are so satisfied with it.
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