How to run seperate batteries.

[thewrap]

I'm trying to gather the last bit of information right before my plane comes in. I want to run 2 or 3 batteries. One for reciever one for servos and the other for the ignition. I'm planning on flying this in a Sukhio 28% from Wild Hare. Using a Spectrum reciever. Can anyone tell me if this is a good idea for this plane.

[GremlinX]

I am really trusting of www.smart-fly.com and their batshare. 2 batteries to the rx and then one to the ignition. It drains both batteries equally but also shut one side down if the battery or switch shorts on that side.... very nice feature and cheap...

[jack01]

Diddo on the smart-fly stuff. But, I probably wouldn't mess with three batteries on a 28% just from a weight standpoint. Just stick with two batteries, run a good quality switch, and inspect everything before you head out to the field and you're good to go.

[Shoe]

Yeah, the Smart-Fly Batt Share is the way to go.

[GremlinX]

I like 2 batteries in my $2000 plane... Or $1000 for that matter... $33 pack= no weight really, and cheap insurance..! NOt even to mention safety...

[STLAV8R]

If you want to run 2 RX batteries, another option would be to run a Fromeco Wolverine switch. It is 1 unit that has 2 on/off switches (and charge jacks). It basically has the technology of a Batshare built into it. Flew 9 flights last weekend. Both RX batteries were within .03 volts of each other after every flight!
Have lots of flights with this switch, and it has been bullet-proof.

[Pale Rider]

	Quote: Originally Posted by GremlinX
	I like 2 batteries in my $2000 plane... Or $1000 for that matter... $33 pack= no weight really, and cheap insurance..! NOt even to mention safety...

I agree..The weight gain is minimal and the benefits are great..no power box's are needed..just 2 quality packs and 2 quality switches...



Here is a good source of information
http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/

[Izzy]

I'd get smarfly's SuperSwitchHD 2 Pack without a battshare into 4 ports on the Rx. this is what I have for my 30% and, by running 4 leads into the receiver you are cutting the internal impedance of the battery in more than half. What I Did was to run the servos into the leads of the switch, then into the Rx. so I have my aileron servos and my elevator servos straight into the switch leads, then into the Rx, and am only using 4 ports on the Rx (as I would with the servos). with the HD switch you will have the safety of 2 switches, 4 leads into the Rx, and the Deans connectors with 18ga wire from the switch to the batteries, and will be able to fly all day on NimHs. to to www.hangtimes.com for some good batteries. I run the Sanyo 1950FAUP and they are light and will run the hitec 5955s all day on this setup.

[jack01]

Let me back up a little here. I guess I wasn't too clear the first time.

If you are going to run two batteries like 'thewrap' suggested, then it's basically pointless since a failure in either battery/switch would result in an inability to fly the airplane. 1. If the Rx battery fails, the Rx can no longer control the servos. 2. If the servo battery fails, then obviously the servos won't work. Plus, you would need an isolator to make it work.

However if you have two batteries/switches that are each capable of running the servos/reciever, then it's not a bad idea. I just think that the extra weight, small as it may be, isn't needed in a 28%. You're not going to find many 28% airplanes that can tax a properly sized single battery anyway, so the extra capacity benefit doesn't mean as much either. I guess the bottom line is, you're not going to hurt anything, I just think it's overkill.

[Mike East]

I dont see much value in the added capacity of a second battery in a 50CC plane. However I do see a tremendous added value in redundant batteries for cheap insurance so that if one battery fails your plane does spin out of control to the ground. The 6oz total weight penalty is negligable in a 50CC plane. For that matter, it would really be a good idea in all planes, even small stuff, if you could get small enough packs that could handle the amp draw.

I agree as well that you do not need a battery to power the servos and another for the receiver. Totally and completely unnecessary. Just get 2 batteries and a switch/regulator setup that plug into the battery slot and a spare channel on the receiver and go fly.

Oh by the way. Im now ProBro 2700, need to add that to my sig!

[thewrap]

I just heard from Smart Fly, they told me the battery on the reciever and servos is a bad idea as some of you have stated. So I think I want to get the two pack to fit into the reciever.

[jack01]

Welcome to the 'Hood Mike! It's all downhill from there...

[thewrap]

I found a regulator that will allow me to use 2 batteries for the reciever from smart Fly.