A123 Batteries for Dummies.

[bodywerks]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Pale Rider
	I prolly missed it somewhere but what is the finished weight of a 2S pack ?

If you buy an assembled 2S pack, it weighs 5.4 ounces. That's about 1/2 ounce heavier than a 2400 li-ion +15 amp reg. The simplicity and HUGE current advantage of A123's should null that little penalty right out...

[Pale Rider]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	If you buy an assembled 2S pack, it weighs 5.4 ounces. That's about 1/2 ounce heavier than a 2400 li-ion +15 amp reg. The simplicity and HUGE current advantage of A123's should null that little penalty right out...

No Doubt!

I got a Dewalt pack coming so Ill be busy!

[Kiwi]

OK I'm going to get thumped here for shilling but I think its worth the pain.

I have probably more time and cash invested in dang power systems than any mortal man should ever have. Its the mad tinkerer blood I inherited from my father so I blame him.

These A123 batteries are the best thing since sliced bread to come along in my humble opinion. As for twin battery systems and switches etc I really think the following setup is as good as it comes.

Look at what it does for you with a 50cc to 85cc model.

• Uses 5-Cell NiCd/NiMH or A123 batteries only with NO REGULATOR
• Built-in BatShare for battery input protection or balanced discharge
• Filtered and regulated 5.0V power supply to the receiver
• Receivers can be end-loading or top-loading
• Eight servo channels
• LED indicators for servo and receiver power
• Full RF filtering of all signals in and out of unit
• Fully buffered signal line for each servo
• Long servo lead line matching
• Integrated Ignition Cutoff
• Operates with single optional Failsafe-switch
• Light weight, 1.9 oz (54g)
• Compact design, 2.6” x 3.5”

For me the real big deal here is the single fail safe switch, no regulators, not a single thing between the battery packs and the servos. Clean, safe and very functional.

Note please!!!! That this is NOT INTENDED for 40% sized models. Its aimed at the 25% to 33% sized kits that run seven or eight servos. The capacity of the plugs is 6 amps constant (3 amps x 2) and the plugs will handle 7 or more amps each in a spike or non extended load situation. That gives you something around 14 amps up your sleeve.

The ignition kill is just a good bonus and gets rid of more wires and plugs that normally clutter up the insides of your plane. I am pedantic in my thoughts that most RC crashes caused by electronics are a product of bad connections, poor battery management, loose cables or not so perfect installations. I stand to get flamed for that statement but it wont make me change my mind.

One of the biggest benefits by far with this setup is you only run wires to your servos from this setup. Theres no switches, no regulators, no optical isolators, no nothing. Its simple and clean and easy to install and setup. And that gents means less chance for an error, loose pin etc etc and a dirt nap.

Sorry to be a shill but I just feel its worth pushing something as good as this setup.

[Pale Rider]

Yea that does sound like a good setup..single fail safe switch is nice..even though it draws some power when off, you can always just unplug the packs..with the A123's though it on takes a few minutes to fully charge them anyway..

[toprudder]

	Quote: Originally Posted by toprudder
	I just had an idea about chargers. The fully charged voltage of a Lipoly cell is 4.2v, while an A123 cell is 3.6v, exactly 0.6v less, which is exactly the breakover voltage of a silicon rectifier (diode). I know my Accucycle Elite will charge through the protection diode of my transmitters, so maybe it can charge through a diode (or two, for two A123 cells). Program the charger for a 2 cell Lipo, and the final charge voltage should be correct. Hmmmm. I'll have to experiment with this when I get a chance.

Well, I finally had a chance to try this. The Accucycle Elite will charge through a diode. One diode per A123 cell should work. A very simple charge adapter will allow me to use the Accucyle to monitor the charge. I figure I will use a bridge rectifier, which will handle the current, give me the breakover voltage of two diodes in series, and also provides two current paths.

[Pale Rider]

I know its the hard way but couldn't you also set the Elite for Lipo/lion and just watch the voltage and make sure to stop the charge at 7.2v ?

[klhoard]

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http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/...electric_N.htm
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[toprudder]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Pale Rider
	I know its the hard way but couldn't you also set the Elite for Lipo/lion and just watch the voltage and make sure to stop the charge at 7.2v ?

Get distracted just one time and suffer the consequences.

Personally, I can't see not implementing such an easy and cheap solution.

[Rolling Thunder]

	Quote: Originally Posted by klhoard
	. . http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/...electric_N.htm . .

I thought this was old news. GM or A123 must be trying to bump there stock prices. There must be a publisist involved, it was even on Paul Harvey today.

[toprudder]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Pale Rider
	I know its the hard way but couldn't you also set the Elite for Lipo/lion and just watch the voltage and make sure to stop the charge at 7.2v ?

Actually, now that I think of it, you would not get a full charge doing it this way. A big part of the charge process occurs before the voltage reaches 7.2v, but then it should go into a constant-voltage mode where the charge current starts to taper off. If you halted the charge when the voltage reaches 7.2v, then you skip the part of the charge where the current tapers off. I'm just guessing, but I think you might only get 70% charged if you disconnect when the voltage reaches 7.2v, unless you charge at a really low current to begin with, in which case you would have to watch it a REALLY long time.

Bob R.

[klhoard]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rolling Thunder
	I thought this was old news. GM or A123 must be trying to bump there stock prices. There must be a publisist involved, it was even on Paul Harvey today.

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How many 2S packs will I get out of a GM Volt??
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[aerohead]

Hey-Dick hanson......check these guys
rcpilot.eu----they are making some claims on a123

[Pale Rider]

Well here is my first 2s pack..Used dual leads and a charge/balance lead..hot glue to keep the wires secure in the channel between the 2 cells and some heat shrink at the terminals for some strain relief..finall some strapping tape to keep everything secure..only thing I need is to get some heat shrink..The hardest part was getting them out of the case!

[Kiwi]

Hardest part was getting those pesky dang tamper proof torks out when I dont have a tamper proof tool.

Thems tite little buggers in that case, they did not leave any extra space in there thats for sure.

[Pale Rider]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Kiwi
	Hardest part was getting those pesky dang tamper proof torks out when I dont have a tamper proof tool. Thems tite little buggers in that case, they did not leave any extra space in there thats for sure.

I just got a dremel and slotted the screws and used a regular screwdriver to take them out