Comp-Arf Extra 300L 2.12M

[~SnApRoLl]

Yes flight report and pics please

any video?

Thanks

[~SnApRoLl]

[~SnApRoLl]

Grab your cameratake some pics of the Extra post them. LOL


Happy landings

[Scotty]

Hi Guys, this is my first go at uploading pictures - let me know your thoughts.

[Scotty]

And here comes a few more......

[Scotty]

Here is the last couple - I have to go away with work tomorrow for a few days then the DA challenge this weekend so realistically Monday will be the maiden - will get some more pics together Friday in the daylight.

[TheShirt]

It looks like you didn't use the supplied servo arms. What type and what length did you use? Ail, Ele, Rudder?

Thanks

The Shirt

[phippsj]

Nice install of the DA50. What length stand-offs did you use?

Also, what header pipe and canister muffler did you use?

[Scotty]

Hi Guys, I'm not sitting in front of it at the moment but from memory here are the answers to your questions ( I'll double check my answers on Friday when I get back).

The Aileron and elevators use the same setup which is an after market (not sure of the brand) very thick control horn on the control surface and JR alloy servo arm which I think are 1.5 inch long and are one hole in from the limit. Joing the two together I used Hangar 9 titanium turn buckles with ball links either end. I am quick to point out that this is NOT recommended in the instructions which is why I upgraded the control horns to take the side loads -will let you know how it goes. The Rudder is pretty standard except I'm am using the servo horn that came with the Hitec 5955 as I have no intention of removing the rudder.

The Pipe is an MTW 75TD mini pipe and header exactly as per the instruction book which I have to say is excellent The Stand-offs are the ones that came with the DA 50 which I think are 2 in but I will measure when I get home........Till Friday

[~SnApRoLl]

The DA manual sez not to use washers behind the standoffs because it could put the crankcase in a bind and break the mounting ears. But the Extra manual sez to use washers to create the side and upthrust, how many washers did you use on each standoff? and did it act like it was binding the crankcase when you tightened the mounting bolts down?

Thanks

Shawn "Comp-Arf newbie"

[Gary Powers]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ~SnApRoLl
	The DA manual sez not to use washers behind the standoffs because it could put the crankcase in a bind and break the mounting ears. But the Extra manual sez to use washers to create the side and upthrust, how many washers did you use on each standoff? and did it act like it was binding the crankcase when you tightened the mounting bolts down? Thanks Shawn "Comp-Arf newbie"

I installed the firewall in mine over the last couple of evenings and the fiberglass firewall was way, way off. It will take more than 3/8's of an inch of washers to line the engine (DA 50) up properly. Hopefully, it will all work out with the washers between the firewall and standoff's. So far the only disappointment of the assembly process.

Gary

[Miki74]

Hello from Finland!
I am waiting my one.
It will be here in Finland at end of august i hope.
Can enyone give my measurements of the cabin hole
So i can start building scale cocpit on it
Width is the importante so i can calculate right scale ratio

Thans to all!

[~SnApRoLl]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Gary Powers
	I installed the firewall in mine over the last couple of evenings and the fiberglass firewall was way, way off. It will take more than 3/8's of an inch of washers to line the engine (DA 50) up properly. Hopefully, it will all work out with the washers between the firewall and standoff's. So far the only disappointment of the assembly process. Gary

Gary,
The Extra manual said that the firewall was molded with no side or upthrust
and that you have to set those angles yourself as the mold process could not insure the proper thrust angles. Now did you mean that the firewall was way off as in the firewall is not straight? Has left thrust? or molded incorrectly? Also how many washers did you use behind each standoff????? This is my first Comp-Arf so I just wanted to know as much as possible about building them.

Thanks

Shawn

[Gary Powers]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ~SnApRoLl
	Gary, The Extra manual said that the firewall was molded with no side or upthrust and that you have to set those angles yourself as the mold process could not insure the proper thrust angles. Now did you mean that the firewall was way off as in the firewall is not straight? Has left thrust? or molded incorrectly? Also how many washers did you use behind each standoff????? This is my first Comp-Arf so I just wanted to know as much as possible about building them. Thanks Shawn

No sidethrust, Shawn, but a ton of downthrust built into the fiberglass firewall. To achieve the proper sidethrust and up thrust required 1/4 and 3/8 inches of washer on the bottom stand offs. I don't think it's a problem, but I was not expecting that much diversion.

Other than that, everything is going well. I bought the associated header and cannister and discovered last evening there is no way to insert a mounting bolt on one side of the header, but that should be easily solved by cutting the head off of a bolt and inserting into the engine, then using a nut to secure it to the header. Hope that makes sense.

Gary

[catman3070]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Gary Powers
	No sidethrust, Shawn, but a ton of downthrust built into the fiberglass firewall. To achieve the proper sidethrust and up thrust required 1/4 and 3/8 inches of washer on the bottom stand offs. I don't think it's a problem, but I was not expecting that much diversion. Other than that, everything is going well. I bought the associated header and cannister and discovered last evening there is no way to insert a mounting bolt on one side of the header, but that should be easily solved by cutting the head off of a bolt and inserting into the engine, then using a nut to secure it to the header. Hope that makes sense. Gary

Gary,

If you install the rear bolt before the header is tight. Then cut down a allen wrench to fit. This should help with the install.