Fly'n with the Circus. RDRC's traveling Circus

[Oldpa]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Larry Lewis
	Any wannabe racers interested in seeing a Carb Mod build? I stil have another Thunder Tiger 40 to set up, and I'm willing to post plenty of pics and directions of it. That is,,,,,,,,,,,, IF you guys will get off your keesters and start posting in here! If I dont see you in here tonight, I can only assume youre watching "American Idol" along with Vess!

Wannabe Price still does.

[RobertV]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Larry Lewis
	Any wannabe racers interested in seeing a Carb Mod build? I stil have another Thunder Tiger 40 to set up, and I'm willing to post plenty of pics and directions of it. That is,,,,,,,,,,,, IF you guys will get off your keesters and start posting in here! If I dont see you in here tonight, I can only assume youre watching "American Idol" along with Vess!

No Idol for me, dude. I won't be requiring that at all!

I'm headed to my shop to work on my Yak. You can do the carb thing over there if you want.

[iflyos]

	Quote: Originally Posted by scaleforlife
	Anyone looking for Canisters or a Wing Bag? I have them listed on FG. Both are New and have not been used.

Lemme see if I can sweet talk the wife into the wing bag. she just took a 50% reduction in hours at work in order to keep her job, so things are fixing to get TIGHT...but I might have a few credits left!!

Tim
AG4RZ

[scaleforlife]

	Quote: Originally Posted by iflyos
	Lemme see if I can sweet talk the wife into the wing bag. she just took a 50% reduction in hours at work in order to keep her job, so things are fixing to get TIGHT...but I might have a few credits left!! Tim AG4RZ

Let me know because we can work something out.
Ken

[Larry Lewis]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Oldpa
	Wannabe Price still does.

Well Alrighty then!

Lets get this thing started. First thing you need to do is click on this link Joe posted . If you can, print this out and put it on your work bench.

RacingTheThunderTiger.pdf


Pic 1 This is the attachment Joe Rafalowski posted a couple of weeks ago. Plenty of good info in here. Basically, it walks you through the whole process step by step.

Pic 2 READ MY FINGER!!!! CLEAN AREA folks! In my case, I used a piece of clean cotton cloth.


Pic 3 Here's the business end of the plane folks.

Pic 4 Here are the parts we'll be working with tonight.

[Larry Lewis]

So lets start taking this sucker apart!

Pic 1 Before we get too far into this, locate this little bag. It contains your allen keys for working on the engine, but more importantly, it has the much needed O-ring for the needle valve. Why in &^$^% they left it off I do not know. And why would they include it with the allen wrenches? Oh well,,,, just set it aside for now.

Pic 2 Here I'm about to remove the carb barrel retaining screw. Once the screw is out, carefully remove the barrel by sliding it outward. Careful not to loose the barrel spring. It most likey will stay attached to the barrel because of the oil on it.

Pic 3 Here the barrel is out. Notice the spring.

Pic 4 With your X-Acto or finger, gently pull the spring away from the barrel.

Pic 5 Spring removed

[Larry Lewis]

Now we have to replace the spring with something better. This can be done with a simple piece of fuel tubing. The instructions state to use a length of 5/32", but I have found it works best to shorten it a tad. I cut a piece 1/8" long. BE SURE to cut the ends straight!

Pic 1 I just marked a piece 1/8" long using an ink pen

Pic 2 Here's the cut piece ready to install

Pic 3 & 4 I used an ink pen to locate the tubing in teh carb block. You can not seat it in with the pen, but it works well to get it in place.

Pic 5 Tubing in place, ready to seat in.

[Larry Lewis]

With the tube in place, you now have to seat it. Yo ureally need to be careful here so you dont damage the needle tube.
Pic 1 Here Im using a piece of plastic push rod to seat the fuel tubing.

Pic 2, 3, and 4 Fuel tubing seated!!

[Larry Lewis]

Now lets put it all back together!

Pic 1 Here's the barrel being replaced into the carb body. Note the location of the barrel guide slot. This is the slot the retaining screw rides in.

Pic 2 Carefully slide the barrel back into the body while lining up the slot witht the screw hole. BE CERTAIN the slot is lined up with the hole before you replace the retaining screw.

Pic 3 Once the slot is lined up, replace the screw and tighten it up .

[Larry Lewis]

We're almost there!!
Now its time to install the little O-ring we were looking at a few post ago. For some reason, TT doesnt install it for you. My guess is they dont want it to compress and harden while not being lubed. Fuel will do that later. So lets get on with it.

Pic 1 First, remove the NVA ( needle valve assy) using you fingers. No need for pliers or wrenches.

Pic 2 Now get the O-ring out of that little bag! CAREFUL!!! It it hits the ground, its rolling awayyyyyyyyyy!!!!

Pic 3 Now install the O-ring on the NVA using your fingers. It works easier to thread it on as if it were a threaded nut. Its also a good idea to place a drop of thin machine oil on the O-ring. This will help prevent damaging the O-ring when you thread the NVA back on to the carb.

Pic 4 Using just your fingers, screw the NVA back in place. Tighten the NVA until the fuel inlet nipple faces toward the rear of the engine. It will be approx 45 degrees to the head. Notice the amount of compression on teh O-ring.

[Spdstr280Z]

	Quote: Originally Posted by scaleforlife
	Anyone looking for Canisters or a Wing Bag? I have them listed on FG. Both are New and have not been used.

What size are the wing bags ? I might take them if iflyos can't get the wife talked in to it.

Jason

[Spdstr280Z]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Larry Lewis
	Geezzzzz,, Somebody call EMS!!!! This thread is dead!!!

Sorry, I've been too busy making and mailing membership cards.....

Jason

[Larry Lewis]

Thats pretty much all for the carb. Again, we're not going to do any work on the low end needle because its no longer allowed in the rule book. Plus, it ruins the idle!
So lets get that muffler ready. One of the weak links with ANY engine is the muffler. How many times have you seen the rear section of a muffler fall off and land wayyyyyyyyyyy the ^%$## out in the bean field? Well, this next step will help reduce the chance of that. We're going to add a cushion area to our mufflers so that they can expand and contract without streching the bolts so much. Aluminum expands at a much higher rate than steel, and thats why the screws tend to break off. Ever notice this happens after a few minutes of flying? So lets do it.

Pic 1 Here she is, right out of the box.

Pic 2 Begine by removing the lock nut.

Pic 3 Now remove the retaining screw/bolt using a phillips bit screw driver. Be certain to use the right size. If you use one too small, you can strip thehead.

Pic 4 Here's all the parts layed out. Notice the baffle. THIS MUST BE REPLACED back in the muffler.

[Larry Lewis]

Now lets put'r all back together again. remember I said we needed a cushion of some sort? Thats what we'll do here. Many folks have used products like JB Weld to do this step,but on the advice of two long time racers in our club I chose to go this route. JB Weld doesnt expand or contract very well, so glueing a muffler together with it doesnt buy you much insurance. Using a silicone material not only adds a little bonding action, but provides an area that can expand and contract without cracking. You might say we're adding an O-ring. In fact, the TT muffler already has an O-ring in it, but well add a little more to it.

Pic 1 I went with the LocTite 598 High Temp Silicone for my muffler. Ive been using this stuff for years and it works great. CAUSTION!! This stuff sticks to your hands better than anything! So use gloves, or at least a stick to apply it to your muffler.
Pic 2 Just apply a thin bead all the way around the outter lip of the rear muffler section. Use a popsicle stick to spread it out evenly.

Pic 3, 4, and 5 Now re-assemble the muffler assy allowing the silicone to squeeze out around the center section. Dont try to clean it off yet. Instead, let it dry overnight, then using your fingers, peel away the excess.When tightening the screw and retainer nut, do not over tighten it. Just snug it up good. Replace the screw first, then replace the lock nut. Again, do not over tighten the nut. Its a nylon lock nut, so it only needs to be snugged up well. If you over tighten the screw and nut assy too much, you will squeeze too much silicone out, and you'll also begin the stretch the screw. This is what we're trying to avoid later when the motor and muffler heats up, so dont give it a head start by stretching it on assembly!!!

[Larry Lewis]

And that kids,,,,,,,is tonights lesson! All easy steps, and this whole deal took less that 30 minutes for me to do. It took a LOT longer to post it on FG!!!!
All thats left is to break this motor in like the first one. My back yard still smells of castor oil !!!
So what else would you guys like to see? We're willing to go to legths to get more of you interested in racing, so let us know!!!