|
| ||||||
| Welcome to The FlyingGiants Community! We're all about fun, and inside you'll find the greatest, friendliest, and most helpful group of people around! If this is your first time visiting, please check out site, and click here to sign up! We hope to see you soon!! |
|
|||||||
|
|
#1 |
|
Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 142
|
Hey everyone. Am getting ready to glue the cowl ring to the cowl on my 40% Radiowave Extra.
My question is this; Should the cowl ring butt up against the first former or should I use a 1/8 or 1/4 inch spacer at the bolts?? On my Wildhare 41% Extra the cowl ring if butted up against the first former and flush with the back of the cowl. I have seen others done allowing some space. I can see the advantage to a little space to use epoxy on both sides of the ring though. Thanx in advance for any thoughts. Ed |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Horse Power Saves Planes!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Magnolia, Texas
Posts: 1,713
|
I always inset my cowl rings so that they can be glassed in from both sides of the ring. Then use whatever size spacers you need to mount them to the former.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
RC 'Aholic!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: CT USA
Posts: 1,809
|
Set them back 1/4 inch. On F1 you'll glue a 1/4 spacer on either the cowl ring or F1 (between F1 and the cowl ring) to fill that space where the bolts go thru on the bottom. The top aluminum bar is inset that 1/4 inch already. I also add a small 1/4 inch block on the sides of the cowl ring where the canopy and fuse meet, use an 8X32 bolt on each side (blind nut inside the cowl) to better support the cowl. I think Jeeum did the same in his build thread.
http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...pak-build.html Replace the washers provided with washers that have the rubber glued on the back. They work great and act as a lock washer. I used Hysol 9462 to glue the cowl ring in. This stuff does not let go! I get it from McMaster-CarrGood luck |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kannapolis, North Carolina
Posts: 2,655
|
good scoop...
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
JTEC RADIOWAVE
![]() |
Ed, since you are modifying the 300 to have a cowl ring you will not have the aluminum bar like Jim is talking about. If it were me I would inset the cowl ring 1/4" and do it like the 330's are done. I tried to take a picture to show you a 330 cowl but I could not get any decent pictures that show enough detail.
__________________
Team Futaba www.jtecrc.com www.desertaircraft.com www.shulmanaviation.com www.composite-creations.com |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Super Contributer
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 142
|
Thanx everyone. That is what I was thinking.
Ed |
|
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| BBW Carden 300 (Prototype) | Wayne | Build Threads | 1640 | 03-05-2010 10:40 PM |
| 40% YAK 54 COWL BEEFUP | Hinckley Bill | Airframes and Kits | 2 | 01-26-2007 10:33 AM |
| Closing cowl openings in a Fiberglass cowl | i3dm | Workshop Skills | 7 | 10-03-2006 04:09 PM |
| Cowl Alignment- Yak | RyanW | Workshop Skills | 8 | 05-25-2006 05:24 PM |