3D Hobby Shop 85" Katana - Assembly Thread

[sukhoi26mx]

I can't lay claim to this technique, but I prefer to avoid using a choke servo and rig the choke manually on a pushrod that can be accessed through the left cheek cooling air inlet on the cowling. I used a small ball link, steel pushrod, and three medium length zip-ties. The zip ties create a housing of sorts for the pushrod to run in. Very simple and bullet proof.

Scott

[3DHobbyShop]

Bob - tunnel is 2 1/8" x 5" x 15"

Re: noise - I recently got one of the JTEC "Double-Snuffler" Pitts, it inclues two packed silencers attached to the main can - it is extremely quiet on my DL. Also, Al is great to work with.

[toprudder]

	Quote: Originally Posted by 3DHobbyShop
	Bob - tunnel is 2 1/8" x 5" x 15" Re: noise - I recently got one of the JTEC "Double-Snuffler" Pitts, it inclues two packed silencers attached to the main can - it is extremely quiet on my DL. Also, Al is great to work with.

Thanks, Ben.

Bob R.

[davemilw07]

Hi Scott,

Haven't received mine yet, but I was wondering if a Power Expander is necessary for this size model. I'll also be using 5955's all around, so due to the current requirements, I'm not so sure about powering them from the receiver.

How wide is the cowl towards the front?? (Was wondering if I'll have to make cylinder head cutouts for my Twin)..................

[3DHobbyShop]

The power expander is really, really nice, we recommend it, but it is not necessary. I also fly them on AR7000 receivers with a Smart-Fly loose Reg on a 2S 2100 lipo. Works fine.

[3DHobbyShop]

Cowl is 9" wide.

[davemilw07]

Hi Ben,

Thanks for the info...........yeah, the heads will stick out, but no problem (helps with cooling).

I suspect I'll have a few more question for you guys in the near future!!!!!

Dave

[davemilw07]

With the DL-50 (with muffler, ignition, and battery), how close does the CG work out to the ideal location?? I think that my twin cylinder may be way to heavy for this (by at least a pound), and I may need a different engine.............

[3DHobbyShop]

The plane is designed around the single-cylinder 50's...if your engine is a full pound heavier, I'd plan on mounting all of the equipment as far back as possible...behind the rudder servo is you can. Small throttle servo (HS-81 or 225) on a long pushrod.

[davemilw07]

How about if I forget the pull-pull arrangement (which I'm not fond of anyhow), and mount the rudder servo in the tail, with a short, solid pushrod??? (highly desireable IMHO). I suspect that I'll have to reinforce the tail end to do it. Plus I can place all of the batteries, RX, etc. toward the back of the fuselage compartment as well.

It won't be the lightest set-up around, but I'm not convinced that I really need it. Heavier aircraft are actually easier to fly in windy conditions, and Lake Michigan is a BIG wind generator!!!

Just a thought.............

Dave

[3DHobbyShop]

Sure, there's plenty of room to mount the servo, call me at the shop 1-830-990-6978 and I can get you the parts you need.

[Boomhauer]

Your Katana is definately a peice of work, It's folks like you that make this hobby great. (Now how do I come up with 600 smackers)

[davemilw07]

A bit of overtime, perhaps..............

[sukhoi26mx]

Keeping the assembly thread going, we include two ply servo mounts with the kit (throttle and choke) to help support a wide variety of different mounting options on the throttle servo. I chose a slightly "out of the ordinary"throttle servo location - on the back of the firewall. I did this to allow a very short, direct throttle servo linkage. I used a short Hanger 9 titanium link to connect to the modified throttle linkage arm and the servo with ball links.

Scott

[sukhoi26mx]

Final shot of the engine installation with the prop (Mejzlik 22x8) and spinner (Tru-Turn Ultimate) installed.

Scott