Extreme Flight 110" 100cc Yak 54 Build!

[Phil Griffin]

AJ. I spoke with Chris at EF, he said they used all 1.5" arms, so mine are set up on the 1.5" holes. There is obviously some excess sticking out, but the linkages are at the 1.5" hole location. Doc, prior to attaching the arms, I centered each servo. The output shaft splines would not allow the arms to go on exactly 90 degrees to the case. Should I screw in the ends of the linkage & adjust the subtrim until the arms are 90 degrees to the case?

[Nogyro]

Phil,

I hope someone chimes in here that is familiar with using Matchboxes. I've always used the Hitec programmer, so I can't help you out there. I always thought the Matchboxes did pretty much the same as the programmer though. Letting you set end points and center point.

When using the programmer, I always start with my transmitter ATV's max'd out, 130% or 140%. I never use any sub-trim. If you do, it will effect the amount of throw on the servo. Also I don't use a throw meter to determine aileron movement. I have a cradle I made out of 3/4" pvc pipe that will hold the wing vertical with the aileron up. I then put a mark the center line on the inner end of the aileron, and on the center of the edge of the wing next to it. I then use a steel ruler to measure my throws. I think mine were like 4 11/16" on high rates, that was about all I could get using 1.5" arms on the servo and the outer hole on the aileron control horn. You'll want to set the inner servo up first. Since the aileron is thicker here where the control horn fastens to it than on the outer one, you'll have less aileron throw. You have to set this one up first and match the outer one to it. Have the outer one disconnected when setting up the inner one and vice-versa.

Now hopefully the Matchboxes will do the rest. And also don't be surprised if you get told several different ways on how to match things up. I've found that there are several different ways of doing it, and sometimes the servo placement, horn placement, etc will determine what works best.

[jdracing3]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Phil Griffin
	AJ. I spoke with Chris at EF, he said they used all 1.5" arms, so mine are set up on the 1.5" holes. There is obviously some excess sticking out, but the linkages are at the 1.5" hole location. Doc, prior to attaching the arms, I centered each servo. The output shaft splines would not allow the arms to go on exactly 90 degrees to the case. Should I screw in the ends of the linkage & adjust the subtrim until the arms are 90 degrees to the case?

Hi Phil
Whether it be right or not, that is what I did. (adjust my sub trims) My arms did not line up at 90 degrees on mine either once my servos were centered. This is the only way to get your geometry correct before matching your servos. If your arms are not at a 90 degree angle to your case when your ailerons are at natural you will get more throw in one direction than the other.

Are you using the same channel numbers on your matchboxs on each wing? Right wing number 1&2 ports, left wing number 1&2 ports. You should not have to use the number 3&4 ports of your Matchboxs with only 2 servo's per wing.

[Phil Griffin]

Hmmm, Seems like you did tell me to use only the ports 1 &2. OK, that's at least two things I've got to fix :-)
I went back down & looked at the arms again, they are not exactly 90 degrees to the cases, but they are really really close, the pictures just make them look off more than they are. Did you read my post # 2199? I have different throws at all 4 positions on the ailerons, Guess this isn't helping either...

[plaster93]

Those arms are way to BIG. 1.25 would be plenty.

[plaster93]

Seems stupid to carry match boxes on a plane that uses programable servos, extra weight. Get a programmer and zero those servos 90* to the case at neutral and program your servo throw. So much easier with a programmer.

[Phil Griffin]

Probably do need to think about getting one. Which is best, the one that hooks up to the computer or the stand alone model?

[mciaglia]

I would advise against using subtrims. I too use the programer and set my radio to max throw. I do my setup exactly as stated in the above post. I will let everyone know the results tomorrow. Getting the arms parallel to the hinge line is esential or your throws will be off. I would set your radio to zero sub trims and use the match boxes to get equal throw

[mxcop]

Until you get set up to program the servos, just sub trim them so they are 90 degrees. You want to use the 1.5" arms, otherwise you won't be able to get the throw you want out of the ailerons for high rate stuff. There is nothing wrong with subtrimming your servos to 90 degrees, that's what I, as well as everyone else that uses JR servos do. The best thing to do is try the arms on all the servos and match them up as best you can to use the least amount of subtrim. I would also recommend getting double sided arms next time, you can switch them around to get very close to 90 degrees with using the least amount of subtrim. Once you find the best position you can cut off the side that you aren't using.

Lee

[mxcop]

	Quote: Originally Posted by plaster93
	Those arms are way to BIG. 1.25 would be plenty.

The recommended arm for the plane is 1.5".

Lee

[cjcyclesrc]

Good advice posted.

Like Lee said you want to find the best matches between servo arms and servos. Then use the 4 servos that are the best matches for the ailerons. The less you have to adjust center the better off you are.

• Always do the inboard servo first. Always leave one ball link unbolted while setting it up.
• Adjust the servo so the arm is centered
• Adjust the linkage so the aileron is centered with the servo arm centered
• Set your end points to the max that can be obtained up and down
• Set center on the outboard servo
• Adjust the linkage so the ball link lines up with no pressure
• Set each end point so the ball link will line up with no pressure
• Check to be sure the ball link lines up through the whole range of motion
• Bolt up both ball links and check your draw

See the picture for an easy way to find center on the arms

[bryandraves]

Sorry to interupt but my "big red" should be here tomorrow yayyyyyy

[cjcyclesrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bryandraves
	Sorry to interupt but my "big red" should be here tomorrow yayyyyyy

Do you have your work bench cleared off and ready to go?

[diamondave5]

id get the programmer if possible, i borrowed my buddies 1st, he was kind enough to let me use it, maybe ask around at your club and see if someone has one, when i got my 2nd plane with 2 serovs/wing i decided to invest myself rather than mooch of my friend, even though it sits around more than being used its worth it, you can use it to fine tune any servo then if you want, even single ele servos, or rudder if you go to 2 servos for that, it is better to use the programmer if you have it than using radio for all that, however if your only needing a few subtrim clicks you can get away with it, but if your 30-40, 50 or more it will affect travel in that directions, the programmer actually makes a new "center" point and then equal travel from there, its pretty cool

[bryandraves]

	Quote: Originally Posted by cjcyclesrc
	Do you have your work bench cleared off and ready to go?

Hahaha what kind of question is that? Of course I do..