Extreme Flight 110" 100cc Yak 54 Build!

[diamondave5]

	Quote: Originally Posted by mciaglia
	I was originally going to go with the DA100 with RE2 pipes but now I am planning on waiting for the DA120. This made putting the cowl on and off easy because of the lack of muffle stacks. However, I don't think I will need pipes on the 120 the way it sounds like it is performing. But my question are to the people with the 100 and stock mufflers...How do you get the cowling on with the baffle in place, forward support former and the muffler stacks sticking out below. It appears to be a geometrical nightamare to get the cowl on and off. Maybe I willgo with pipes when more reports are released about the 120 mark

im running a zdz100 with stock muffs, i just made slots for the mufflers instead of just a hole, its actually pretty easy to take on and off, easier in fact then other planes ive had

[jmoesdad]

	Quote: Originally Posted by s.corp
	Can I build the yak RTF with DA-100 and pipes without exceeding $4000? Help with set up please. I have rx, and tx. Thanks

used,used,used...da100, servos,matchboxes,etc...batteries i would do new but you could be in for 3k +-

[Nogyro]

	Quote: Originally Posted by mciaglia
	I was originally going to go with the DA100 with RE2 pipes but now I am planning on waiting for the DA120. This made putting the cowl on and off easy because of the lack of muffle stacks. However, I don't think I will need pipes on the 120 the way it sounds like it is performing. But my question are to the people with the 100 and stock mufflers...How do you get the cowling on with the baffle in place, forward support former and the muffler stacks sticking out below. It appears to be a geometrical nightamare to get the cowl on and off. Maybe I willgo with pipes when more reports are released about the 120 mark

I'm running the DA100L with stock mufflers in mine and have no problem at all getting the cowl on and off. Like diamondave said, just make slots for your stacks instead of holes. I think my slots are about 3" long. I installed the forward support former for the cowl as per instructions, and made my own baffle, but it's actually a copy of the EF one just made out of balsa. With a 3" hole in the center of the baffle, all you have to do is drop the front of the cowl and slide it up and over the engine. One of the easiest I've ever had.

[t-moller]

Thanks guys for the input.

Keithw that is a pretty good idea. Yes the wing tips will stall from around the end of the wing and the winglet will keep that air coming in from the ends just like the full scale. I think I will try this on the smaller Extra 300 as it wing rocks a little.

tm

[t-moller]

	Quote: Originally Posted by cjcyclesrc
	I haven't had any problems with the two power inputs on 50cc planes. I would figure you would be ok, but it would be good to plug another power lead into an open channel on the RX. I'm glad I don't run regulators anymore. It's nice to plug the batteries straight into a 922 and use the built in soft switch. If you need a regulator it works good to use a Smartfly Super/Turbo Reg with the 922. It also has a built in soft switch so you can just use one pin flag. What batteries are you using? How do plan to match the wing servos?

Hey Charles,

On matching the wing servo's I plan on using the programmer. I've done that before on two other planes and it works great.

So on the 922 you don't need the regulators for the 7.4 volts Lion? If the JR922 can handle the amps going through it without going in to any brown outs I would skip the power expansion board and save that money. But I though it needed 4.8-6 volts and not 7.4 or (8.2 volts +/- ) as it comes out when fully charged.

All the servo's I plan on using are not hi voltage type. Hitec 7955 for all around surfaces and 5245 for throttle and a standard JR DS 821 for choke. Or do you have another recommendation?

[jamesrxx951]

	Quote: Originally Posted by t-moller
	Hey Charles, On matching the wing servo's I plan on using the programmer. I've done that before on two other planes and it works great. So on the 922 you don't need the regulators for the 7.4 volts Lion? If the JR922 can handle the amps going through it without going in to any brown outs I would skip the power expansion board and save that money. But I though it needed 4.8-6 volts and not 7.4 or (8.2 volts +/- ) as it comes out when fully charged. All the servo's I plan on using are not hi voltage type. Hitec 7955 for all around surfaces and 5245 for throttle and a standard JR DS 821 for choke. Or do you have another recommendation?

all jr recievers can handle up to 9v. your limitation is the servo's. the 922 is out there so you don't need to buy a power expander. if you need to regulate down you still can use the 922 with no issues. just plug your regs direct into the power wires and used the fail safe switch. just unplug the batteries at the end of the day.

[cjcyclesrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by t-moller
	Hey Charles, On matching the wing servo's I plan on using the programmer. I've done that before on two other planes and it works great. So on the 922 you don't need the regulators for the 7.4 volts Lion? If the JR922 can handle the amps going through it without going in to any brown outs I would skip the power expansion board and save that money. But I though it needed 4.8-6 volts and not 7.4 or (8.2 volts +/- ) as it comes out when fully charged. All the servo's I plan on using are not hi voltage type. Hitec 7955 for all around surfaces and 5245 for throttle and a standard JR DS 821 for choke. Or do you have another recommendation?

Just as James said the RX's can handle the voltage no problem. The problem is with the servos. The good news is you have some options to get it done. A lot of Heli pilots are running unregulated 7.4v systems now and most Gyros are still limited to 4.8v. Specktrum makes a nice little reg designed to be used between the RX and SX. The one Reg will do two channels. http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...odID=SPMVR5203

I would recommend a more robust throttle servo. The throttle servo is just as important as any of the servos. When you think about it you only have one. If you loose one elevator servo, You still have the other side working to land the plane. If you are low 3Ding and you loose the throttle it could cost you an airplane. I've had it happen on two occasions. One time it went full throttle and I was able to kill the motor with the choke and land. The other time it closed the throttle and killed the motor as the plane was rolling inverted in a low harrier roll. Not a good thing. I was able to get it upright before it hit the ground so the main damage was the landing gear. The Throttle servo doesn't need much torque but it needs to be able to stand a lot of vibration. Do a search here for the 5245. There was a thread a while back about some having problems with the 5245 burning up on the throttle. The 821 is known to have issues with vibration.
Here is what Horizon says about them:

	Quote:
	Overview The DS821 servo is a powerful, accurate sport digital servo recommended for RC airplane applications up to 1.20-size. For helicopters, the DS821 operates best with 30-size glow models, and up to 50-size electric. Loads and vibration in larger models may cause premature failure of the servo resulting in damage or injury to property and persons.

I would recommend a getting a good servo for the throttle. Two good choices for the throttle would be a 5625MG or a 7965MG. You could use the 5245 on the choke or a 485HB makes a good inexpensive choke servo. It would be worth considering running a 7955 on the throttle and a manual choke. That way you wouldn't need a regulator.

[jamesrxx951]

ive burned up a 5245 on throttle in about 30 flights. and there is alot of stories like that on this forum. they work great on glo engines but not anymore on gas for me. a good metal gear full size servo works great.

[diamondave5]

i used to think my buddy was wasting money running expensive digital servos on throttles, till i had one of my "regular" ones fail, i use 5625's on all my throttles now, i think i have a 425 or 475 on a choke thats been holding up for a while with good results, another benefit of digital on throttle is the resolution is better than analog too

[cjcyclesrc]

Here is a link to a recent thread about the subject. http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=50176

[STLAV8R]

	Quote: Originally Posted by keithw124
	Here is a Little mod i made for the yak. I put on some side force generators. and it really makes a big difference. i always had a little wing rock on my yak and i know alot of you guys can do it without any problems, but these little things really make it rock solid with no effort. im no longer fighting it with ailerons it settles right in. and it even gives a little more rudder authority too. made these with birch wood ply and cut out holes to make them real light. George Hicks is the guy who started these side force generators and my hat is off to him. this really made my flying even more enjoyable. i try and borrow a video camera and put up the video here. Attachment 247100 Attachment 247101 Attachment 247102

How cool! Do you so happen to have a pdf file showing the dimensions and a picture you could e-mail me? What was your criteria you used to decide how big to make them and what design to use? How much do they weigh a piece covered and with the nylon bolts total? So it really helped smooth out the wing rock a lot? How much wing rock does it have now with the SFG's installed? What other characteristics does it effect in flight? I was wondering if they shouldn't be a little bigger. I have a set on my 48" EF Extra 300 that seem to cover more of the wing tip/aileron area. Interesting concept and experiment.....

[cjcyclesrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by keithw124
	Here is a Little mod i made for the yak. I put on some side force generators. and it really makes a big difference. i always had a little wing rock on my yak and i know alot of you guys can do it without any problems, but these little things really make it rock solid with no effort. im no longer fighting it with ailerons it settles right in. and it even gives a little more rudder authority too. made these with birch wood ply and cut out holes to make them real light. George Hicks is the guy who started these side force generators and my hat is off to him. this really made my flying even more enjoyable. i try and borrow a video camera and put up the video here. Attachment 247100 Attachment 247101 Attachment 247102

I missed that post on the previous page.

Cool. Nice job. I'm curious about how they would feel.

[t-moller]

Hey,

Thanks for the great input. It would have been bad to have the throttle burn up as I am doing a lot of hovering.
Also didn't know that the 7955's could handle the 7.4 volts.

Will post as I get started. Waiting on big boxes to arrive. You guys will most likely hate me for this but I'm going to strip it first and re-do the color layout. 2 large rolls of Monakote is on its way too. Paint is here and waiting too.

[t-moller]

Here is what I'm planning on making it look like.
This was an Aeroworks 75cc Yak with a DA 85. Flew like a bottle rocket.
Any way it was sold to make funds for this new one. The last picture is what it looked like before I re-did it.

[diamondave5]

hopefully it wont say aeroworks on this one when your done