Extreme Flight 110" 100cc Yak 54 Build!

[jwilliams]

I would not use the DA150, I think your overall weight gain and balance issues would make you regret it. I have mine on a DA100 (old version 100) with carbon fiber ES composite pipes and power is phenomenal. I have never weighed mine, but it is the model that is in the instruction manual so you can see I did nothing to save weight. I use two batteries, two switches, two rudder servos so I could even shed some #'s. You might look at the 3W 106 for slightly more power than the DA100, however it appears the best combo is the DA85 on a pipe. This combo yields the best P to W ratio and gives the airplane an overall lower wing loading and saves you money.
Jeff Williams

[cjcyclesrc]

	Quote: Originally Posted by avi8freak
	I am a little frustrated with my cowling...I only have 25 flights on mine and I have had to repair my cowl after every trip to the field. I used the supplied clear washers on it with the bonded washers on the 4-40 bolts. I locktited them and made sure they were tight. I now have had 2 of them grind a hole as big as the clear washer completely through the cowl. I repaired using 1"x1" squares of fiberglass cloth coated with thinned 30 minute epoxy. Am I doing something wrong with my mounting??? I just hate that my cowl looks like it has 250 flights vs. 25! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Curtis, how much would it cost for a new cowling if I was interested in replacing mine???

I checked my log and I have exactly 25 flight on my 110 and the cowling bolts are as tight as the day I put it together. The forward bolts on my cowling would pull the sides in so i epoxied a 1" square of 1/32" behind the bolt hole. The tabs were slightly lower than the ring so a piece of 1/32" ply on that leveled it out nice. The 1/16" of spacing made the sides of the cowl straight.

Did you glue the clear washer to the cowling? I used CA to glue them on. If they were not glued it could allow the cowl to move and the bonded washers wouldn't be effective.

I don't use loctite on blind nuts. If it turns inside you have a mess. Zig 2-Way glue from Wal-Mart (Crafts Department) works great holding them in and you can still remove them without any problems. Mark (littlecrankshaft) showed it to me and I have been using it ever since.

[ben_beyer]

Another trick is to loose the bonded washers and put grommets (either the round ones for Futaba servos if the bolts are 4-40 or bigger ones from the hardware store if the bolts are bigger) and stick them in the holes. I've done this in the past and never had a problem.

[Cooper 1]

thanks for the input JW I'm looking at the bme 150 now 5.58 # still just kicking ideas around though...

[jwilliams]

Good luck Cooper, you will have great power or possible unbelievable power. If you fly off asphalt good luck taxiing with a 150, or getting it stopped???
Jeff W.

[diamondave5]

i think if your just visiting showlow i wouldnt get the 150, even if you lived there id say a 115 or 120 would be good, but just watch the weight, like a zdz100 on pipes would be lighter and more powerful than a zdz120 on stock muffs


on my 88 cowl i didnt use the clear ones, just the bonded ones and it was just fine for 2 seasons, i havent flown this one yet but i was planning on the same set up, i used the clear ones on my ele halves on the 88, wont use them at all on here as i ended up using this set on my sd yak to hold the canopy in place

[diamondave5]

cooper you can always do a tail drag in a harrier instead of a tail touch from hover, haha

[Cooper 1]

right on Guys...I've got a 3W85xi CS that wasn't really turning up that much power 6100 on Xoar 26x10 with 3W wrap around pitts style muff. Never could get it tuned right. Well I took the motor apart last night to find one stripped hole in the carb mount block... I'm sure it was sucking air causing lean hot flame outs...learn as you go...got the motor on RCU... so any way, past the block I found a broken reed...bottom end looked and felt good...needs new piston...ribs on skirt worn smooth and half way burnt...rings, wrist pin and bearing...showed some definate signs of heet ouch!!..reeds, carb mounting block, ignition back plate...since I broke the mounting tabs off one side when I killed my H-9 SU26 last season due to lean flame out in hover about 25-30' high.. worst place for motor to die yea? New spark plug boot and wire all for the bargain basment price of 230$ from Gerhardt at AI parts should be here on Monday....Maybe this will be my motor??? Matched with the new MTW RE3 what do you guys think of that??

[diamondave5]

i was just checking the aileron horns with a scale, i have 1&1/2 arms, do we want to use the outer hole on the outer horn, and the inner on the inner, it almost looks like that is 1&1/2 from the hinge line and the other hole is further out, any suggestions? get by with either one?

[Ground Pounder]

	Quote: Originally Posted by diamondave5
	i was just checking the aileron horns with a scale, i have 1&1/2 arms, do we want to use the outer hole on the outer horn, and the inner on the inner, it almost looks like that is 1&1/2 from the hinge line and the other hole is further out, any suggestions? get by with either one?

Just checked mine.

The ailerons are very effective. Use the outer hole in the aileron and the 1.25" hole on the servo arm. Set the throw for about 32 degrees for starters. That gives plenty of response and you can adjust from there.

This type of set up also gives you a good mechanical advantage (improved leverage).

[BR289]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Cooper 1
	right on Guys...I've got a 3W85xi CS that wasn't really turning up that much power 6100 on Xoar 26x10 with 3W wrap around pitts style muff. Never could get it tuned right. Well I took the motor apart last night to find one stripped hole in the carb mount block... I'm sure it was sucking air causing lean hot flame outs...learn as you go...got the motor on RCU... so any way, past the block I found a broken reed...bottom end looked and felt good...needs new piston...ribs on skirt worn smooth and half way burnt...rings, wrist pin and bearing...showed some definate signs of heet ouch!!..reeds, carb mounting block, ignition back plate...since I broke the mounting tabs off one side when I killed my H-9 SU26 last season due to lean flame out in hover about 25-30' high.. worst place for motor to die yea? New spark plug boot and wire all for the bargain basment price of 230$ from Gerhardt at AI parts should be here on Monday....Maybe this will be my motor??? Matched with the new MTW RE3 what do you guys think of that??

When you get that motor fixed up it should prove to be a great running motor....Just be careful not to overtighten the bolts, especially the carb block

[jwilliams]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Cooper 1
	Maybe this will be my motor??? Matched with the new MTW RE3 what do you guys think of that??

I think you will be very happy with that setup. Can you run it on a pipe? Not sure what the MTW RE3 is, maybe that is a pipe......anyway you go you will love the way this thing flies. I sold my 40% Carden 330 and am glad I did since this flies better and much cheaper.
Jeff W.

[Cooper 1]

MTW RE3 is new tuned pipe for 85cc 225$ from DA

[Cooper 1]

glad to hear it flies well!!! I've been hooked on ExtremeFlight scince the 68" Yak....nothing really compares to me.

[Cooper 1]

will pay special attention around the carb block area...Thanks