Eagletree with A123 Butt saver setup!!!!!!

[GooseF22]

My setup pack is a AAA 900 pack with teeeny wires. That way you know quickly if there is a problem. it gets warm now.

Up until recently I had not been a big fan of solid state switches, but Kurt sent me a wolverine to test, and I was impressed at the robustness of that switch. It balanced the 123's over time as well. In that I mean I used an almost discharged pack and a 2/3 full pack, and after loading them to 8 amps on a 5 volt cut, it had both packs within about 200 milli amps of remaining charge. I also put a 30 amp load through it with no sweat. That was on ONE deans output. the switch has a common output bus that has 6 holes in it for 3 output wires, or more if you double em.

If you are not a good solderer let fromeco configure it how you want it. the holes are close together.

What I like about that setup is that if I want to power something separately, I dont have to run it through the receiver....example....seiko power.....smoke pump....

If you used an eagletree, that would work well as a front end into the box. What I dont know is power loss through the eagletree, or how much flow through capability it has for current..

keep the information flowing....

[Kiwi]

Goose.

The EagleTree is a 100amp buss with a shunt to read amps etc. It is nothing more than a copper jumper and has absolutley no resistance etc to add to the setup. All the other details like RPM, temps etc are peripherals and again are not in series with anything associated with your radio setup.

I have finally taken the plunge and purchased a new 14MZ Power Expander for the new plane. The reason I went this path is there is no switch, no cables, absolutely nothing extra to go wrong.

The only information I need now is the current rating for the fail safe switch on the PEX. I know from experience it can handle around 20 amps but I need Bob to confirm that.

Hopefully I can get some photos in the coming days of everything all done nicely and tidy. But I think I have pretty much accheived my goal and that is a system that is switchless (as best as possible) with unlimited voltage and amperage feed to the servos, while retaining a stable voltage to the receiver.

Will keep you posted as we go.

[GooseF22]

Thanks Kiwi,

good info to know..

I am going at it a little differently, but same end effect. I will be building some 20 gage servo harnesses in the future that will split off the signal wire and build a mini bus kind of like if you took a matchbox and had heavy wiring to it. thats for the 4 servo elevator and 2-3 servo aileron matching without PE and without a Y cord..

Since a PE10 cost 250, I am trying to come up with a 100 dollar alternative for 40% that will power smoke and a seiko as well on one switch. I have concerns a PE can do all that on a 40% if everything was plugged into it. I do not plan to run a separate 3 cell batt for the seiko, but instead powering everything with 16 gage wires and two 2300 A123's.

[Kiwi]

Goose,

Pretty much sounds like the same setup. I am likely going to use ACE Hobby 200oz servos as I really like how tight and fast they are plus the alloy heat sink case so they run cooler, hold better constant torque. I have a friend who wants me to try them so I figure nothing ventured nothing gained.

I will run a Seiko on rudder but another aquaintance is making me a new card to install in the Seiko that cures all the centering and bouncy stuff. He uses these on his UAV´s and says they are the ducks nuts. They arrive in Feb with luck.

No 12 volt pack for the Seiko either as its a rudder buster on that Fromeco pack. I have it in my big old Pitts and man you can cool the crowd just wagging that rudder on the ground. Who needs a punkawalla when you have a Seiko on rudder with 12 volts.

I buy all my own servo wire from Aircraft International. Kevin has some really good silicone wire that must have a 100 strand count as it as soft as speghetti and takes a real hiding. 10 amps no problems in bursts. 5 amps easy continuous. Those are my guesses by the way, not fact but its good stuff I assure you.

Keep me posted in here as you go as my real ambition is to have a setup with nothing other than the most neccesary parts in it. Simple = Safe in my books.