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#31 |
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it wont go any lower
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Canada Eh?
Age: 19
Posts: 2,365
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hopefully by the time this plane gets done the weather gets better. the rain keeps comnig down over here.
harv |
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#32 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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On to the rudder! Before we install the rudder, I am going to add the hardware to the rudder before attaching it to the fuse. Install the steel tiller horn just behind the hinge line on the bottom of the rudder using the two small wood screws. Again remove and wick thin CA in the holes and reinstall.
Included is a HD pull-pull system from Dubro. Also there’s a longer 8/32 stainless threaded rod in the hardware set. Locate the hard point and install the longer 8/32 rod and supplied hardware from Dubro. You don’t have to use the nuts to lock everything in place if you use the loc-tite like before. Now that we’re done with that, will go ahead and epoxy the rudder in place. The hinges are already installed on the rudder side so this is a fast step. Once the epoxy has set we’ll attach the tail wheel springs. |
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#33 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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For the rudder servos, I am using a single JR 8711 rudder servo with a 4” offset servo arm for both airplanes. For the 100cc I am mounting it in the rear servo mount. If your using an 85, I would put it into the forward servo mount since it’s a much lighter motor. If your using two, I guess it doesn’t matter. However from this step forward, DA-85 users should be mindful as you add hardware so you don’t have to shift everything forward later on.
Now having said all that, a stand alone bell crank is ideal if your worried about wear on the output shaft of the servo. I use the KISS principle…besides it works. I’ll be more likely to dirt nap it doing something I stupid long before I ware out the output shaft of the servo. Attach the supplied pull-pull cable in a crossed fashion. |
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#34 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Molalla,OR
Posts: 617
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I got mine this morning and I must say the quality and engineering that went into this plane is unsurpassed! All of the components are very light and well built. No wrinkles or bubbles in the covering either and very nice paint work. This is an awesome value. And I must add that Herve and Ken are two of the nicest,most stand up guys you could ever do business with. My first kit was busted up pretty good by United Plane Smashers despite the awesome packing job. But I received prompt first-class service, especially by Ken who went above and beyond the call of duty to replace my plane. If anybody out there is sitting on the fence thinking about this plane, don't hesitate any longer! You will not be sorry.
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#35 |
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Smoke on!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oak Ridge, NC
Posts: 4,212
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#36 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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Yakpilot,
The pleasure was all ours. Just when we thought we were pretty much UPS proof! Look forward to seeing you get that thing together. Ken |
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#37 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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Nice, a great day of flying today and now I can get back to the assembly!
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#38 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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There are two switch locations on the forward part of the fuse. They'll both accept HD standard switches. For the wolverine I had to do a little hacking but worth the results. Fuel dot now installed.
Ken |
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#39 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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Now it's time to add more sweetness, the DA-100. As mentioned before, the firewall is pre-marked so you'll just need to center your motor in the "+". Take a ruler and draw a line across the entire firewall for the thrust line and offset center line.
I drew out the template and taped it on the firewall as shown and drilled the holes for the 1/4-20's. We'll be providing a template for the DA-100. You will need 1-1/4" standoffs for the 100, and four 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" long. Now that I have the motor mounted, I'll mark the locations for the fuel line and throttle push rod remove motor and drill those locations and reinstall motor. |
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#40 |
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Smoking a Blunt with Yoda
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ft. Smith, AR
Posts: 2,648
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Is there right thrust already built into the cowling and firewall? Also, where is the recomended CG? Looking good!
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#41 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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If your install canisters with a twin, then you'll will just need to open the bottom of the cowl like shown to vent the engine compartment. Stock exhaust or the DA-85, we're going to need to do some more work. Since this customer went with cans, we're done here
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#42 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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Ken |
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#43 |
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Smoking a Blunt with Yoda
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ft. Smith, AR
Posts: 2,648
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7" from the root or the tips? UPS says I will have mine tomorrow, hope UPS doesn't smash it!
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#44 |
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Center Punch it!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 45
Posts: 628
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Doesn't matter, it's an Edge!
![]() Ken |
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#45 |
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Smoking a Blunt with Yoda
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ft. Smith, AR
Posts: 2,648
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Forgot about that, is 7" the starting point or optimum for 3D?
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