Thinking about getting into Heli's or have questions, Let me know!

[Shortman]

Don't forget good dampeners. Those Infinivation dampeners make the heli feel completely different compared to the stock ones that come in most kits.

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Neogenesis
	I wouldn't mind a nitro Shank....but the whole idea of this adventure is to make it flyable in my backyard. With 3 kids....I don't know how often I will make it to the field in the future. My neighbors wouldn't like it too much to hear a nitro humming around. Any suggestions for a little larger electric....if they are available? I'm guessing the nitro's are more stable due to their larger size. Neo

You right on the money, just like planes bigger the better! Check out the new swift from century http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...?currentid=304 It's the the same size as a 30. Or www.quickheli.com

[Kevin Y]

what about potato salad cause he just eat some of that!!

You need to talk Jim into leting me fly his .90 sized heli. I don't understand why I would need any experience

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by JayB
	I got 2 a questions, 1: is there and new RTF nitro helis out there that are not junk. Second: On a turbine heli, how does the turbine run the blades. I'm guessing theres some kind of fan behind the turbine or something. and ideas? P.S. This thread is sweet.

We have to go flying sometime. That's pretty much it. It's all done inside the engine and it has a output shaft that connects to the heli's drivetrian. There are no rtf nitro heli's unless you buy used. You can pick up a used raptorv2 rtf minus rx for $500-1600.

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Kevin Y
	what about potato salad cause he just eat some of that!! You need to talk Jim into leting me fly his .90 sized heli. I don't understand why I would need any experience

Jeeum's SZ powered all carbon 90se.... Great starter heli. Go for it! There is a picture of a guy hovering a 90 in his apartment living room with 2 other guys sitting on the couch. I think they are still alive, proving Darwin wrong. A little trex will cause some damage. Bigger birds can create a world of hurt.

[JayB]

DANG!!! Broham got his face turned into a hamburger!!

[Neogenesis]

ok....let's keep at the hardware part of this. I'll admit...I know very little about what works best in a heli.

Lets talk Gyro's. What am I looking for in one. What's good and what's bad. How about some suggestions?


Servo's, I'm guessing you don't need a ton of torque, but speed would be the key factor here. Would karbonite gears hold up....or would I want to stick to metal gear. How about some idea's about the specs needed, torque and speed.


Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions.



Neo

[JeeUm]

Neo, running 8311's in my 90. Basically just nylon geared 8411's. Metal gears are not needed. In my .50 I'm only running futaba 9001's. Coreless, non digi's about 70 oz of torque I believe. I'm perfectly happy with them. Gyro's, I would say the futaba GY 401 with the 9254 tail servo is your best bet. Works great for everything except the hardest of tail first 3d stuff, and I mean the hardest.

[Nitrohuffer]

Yeah, I would say 60% of the people out there are running the 401/9254-9253 combo. The gyro's have gotten so good that it is not necessary top have a perfect linkage setup for the tail. I leave mine in heading hold mode all the time. Let the gyro do the work as long as there is no binding.

[Biff]

Heading mode. Uhhhh,,,,?

[Nitrohuffer]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Biff
	Heading mode. Uhhhh,,,,?

I was in the same boat for while, these things seemed very complicated. Gyro technology has done wonders for the rc heli in the past 10 years. Gone are the days of revolution mixing (tail to collective). I couldn't imagine setting up a heli without a gryo.

Here we go, get your notebook. Cliff notes are at the end of the post.

First thing to start with is what does a gyro do, and how does it do it. Basically you have two types, mechanical and piezo. I do not think anyone still sells the old mechanical gyros. The mechanical gyros will have a buzzing sound coming from the sensor unit. They use an electric motor with two flywheels, one on each end of the motor shaft. And this is where the noise comes from. To understand how it works hold a spinning bicycle wheel by the axle and try to turn it, you will feel it resist you moving it. The flywheels in the mechanical gyro are mounted on a pivot and a sensor measures the deflection of the motor/flywheels when the helicopter makes a sudden movement. The piezo type gyros work with no moving parts. It uses a triangular crystal (or a silicon ring in the case of higher end models) with a piezo element on each side. The piezo element is used in a lot of watches to make the beep sound from the alarm function. The material not only can make sound but also sense it. So it is used in both speakers and microphones. Two of the piezo elements on the crystal are set to sense vibration and the third one is setup to vibrate. When the helicopter is not rotating the vibration traveling through the crystal hits the other two piezo elements at the same time. When the helicopter is rotating one sensor will have a stronger signal then the other. It is a very efficient design and has a lot finer degree of resolution then the mechanical type. In addition power consumption is greatly reduced as there is no spinning motor to power.

BIFF! WAKE UP! Here's you answer! I know this is a very dry subject but I find it interesting and it good to know what is going on inside that little plastic box.

Heading hold (hh) and standard rate or normal(non-hh).
In non-hh mode the gyro just dampens unwanted movements of the tail. To keep things simple lets say you are hovering and a constant wind hits the helicopter from the side, the gyro will keep the helicopter from suddenly swinging nose into the wind, but the helicopter will eventually drift nose into the wind. All the gyro does is to prevent any jerk type reaction.
In hh mode the gyro will keep the nose pointed in the same place until you tell it to move. You can fly sideways with the rudder stick in the center and the nose will remain pointed in the same direction.
If you have not used heading hold before then you will notice in fast forward flight that when you make a turn, the tail will not follow the helicopter, you have to give some rudder in your turns. Another thing is that you'll notice the rudder stick feels different. In heading hold, the amount you move the rudder stick from center tells the gyro how many degrees per second that you want the helicopter to rotate. The gyro moves the rudder servo however much it needs to obtain the requested rotation rate. With a standard rate gyro if you did a slow pirouette (one rotation) with the wind then to keep the helicopter spinning at the same rate you would have to move the rudder stick more as the tail is going upwind and less as the tail goes downwind. But with a heading hold gyro, it will tell the rudder servo to move more or less to maintain the constant rate, you just keep the rudder stick in one place.
Due to typical marketing ploys you will see many names for heading hold. They all are just different names for the same thing. The different names are just because each company wants to make it seem like their version is more special then another companies. AVCS = Tail Lock = Smart Lock = Heading Hold

Cliff and Biff notes:

Gyro's sense the yaw of the heli due to torque changes by the main rotor, and send a signal to the tail servo in the opposite direction to correct the movement and make it stay put.

Non heading hold will allow the heli to act like a weather vane (sp?) and point itself into the wind that is hitting the fins on the tail. Heading hold will keep the tail locked in one direction until stick input is entered (allows for easy sideways flight)

[2.6m-rod]

thanks for this info,it has helped me to understand gyro's.i am new to heli's . i am thinking of buying a raptor 60, gy401with 9245 servo.
what other servos would suit this size heli and are digital ok to use
battery 6v nimi2700 ok ??? is 6v ok for gyro


regards rod

[Flyinfool]

Rod
Digitals are great for helies.
The 9252 is one of the most popular servos and works very well and is not too expensive.
Your 6V NiMh pack will cook or at least drastically reduce the life of the gyro and 9254 servo. If you want to run the 6V pack you will need to put a 5V regulator on the Gyro and servo.
2700 mAh is the minimum pack that I would run with digital servos.
I have all 4000+mAh Lion packs in all of my helies from 50's through Gasser's. With your pack be sure to check it before each flight with an expanded scale voltmeter under load. You may just need to recharge at the field more often.

[Nitrohuffer]

What he said I'm sure you've got a fromeco laying around, drop it the lowest they go and you will be fine. That's what Jeeum did with the relion 4000 pack.

[Flyinfool]

Watch out for the Fromeco regulators that are made for giant scale.
They WILL fail in a heli.
Fromeco makes a couple of special regulators for heli use.
There was tons of testing done and the only conclusion is, the Giant scale regulators do not last in a heli, they burn up. None of the engineers at Fromeco were able to figure out exactly why.
The dedicated heli regulators have huge heat sinks on them.

I have had good luck with both the Duralite and MAH batteries and regulators in a heli.