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#46 |
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Gohbee Dude
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cudahy, WI
Posts: 437
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The best thing for a first flight is to find some experienced help.
Going to a heli fun fly with your heli will always find experienced help. Even if you have to drive over 100 miles each way it is worth it to get started right. Look on the AMA website to see if you can find a heli club to visit. It is possible to start on your own if you have to. Get training gear and for your first flights do not let the heli get to more than 1 foot high. If you fly any higher than a foot, the training gear can not help to keep you from tipping over. Your first flights will look more like bunny hops and only last a couple of seconds each. If the heli does anything that you didn't tell it to reduce the collective slightly and land to try again. If the tail gets turned, resist the temptation to "fly" it straight, walk over and straighten it out, or reposition it to a safe area. Since you have been flying on the sim this process may only take one or two flights. As far as trimming goes, check that your CG is on the main shaft or SLIGHGTLY nose heavy with full fuel (Full fuel only applies to helies with the tank behind the CG) once you get proficient you can set your CG to be right on the main shaft at half fuel. It is normal for a heli to drift left at lift off. A stationary hover in no wind will have the heli leaning slightly to the right. This is normal on any heli with a clockwise rotor. After a short while you will automatically give that little bank at liftoff. For the first flights some people will put a 1/4 inch thick piece of wood under he left skid to give you that slight right bank before lift off. If the heli wants to drift in one direction with no wind, then you may need to ad some trim to correct. If there is wind the heli should drift with the wind when trimmed correctly. Now my fingers hurt.
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Jeff Borowski |
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#47 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 34
Posts: 891
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I needed a break
I agree with everything Jeff said. The trick to set up is to build it exactly to the manual. 90 degrees at linkages, level swash,, and correct length links will give you a almost perfect set up. Pound the sim! When you get ready to go with the real thing you will be better off.
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#48 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Carolina
Age: 51
Posts: 3,218
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Nitro, Great read and even I can understand it!! Nice. Here's another for you. Why is it mandated that you must take off and wiggle everything then land and look at the transmitter, then blast off into wildness? Hmmm,,,
Here's my next one. I've been flying choppers on the sim a bunch. The chaos,,,,***??? Can't make that one happen at all. How about walkning us simboners through it? Dang!!! I just coined a new one,, Sim-boners!!! Yahoos like me who are brave on a sim but a wimp with the real thing. Nice huh? |
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#49 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Carolina
Age: 51
Posts: 3,218
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And another thing!! How much does blinging out a chopper actually do? I've heard both sides. Helis like everything else in the world, have add ons for upgrades for modified parts. What's the real scoop?
Sometimes the cool factor is worth the investment on what ever you're working on. But watching JeeUms box stock .50 heli fly got my thinker thinking. Thoughts? |
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#50 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 34
Posts: 891
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Sim-boner! LOL!
I can mow the grass all day on a sim. In real life I don't let my heli get below 6 feet inverted 1. To do a quick test, and make sure all the switches are in the right spot for 3d. 2.PiroFlip -- Flipping (while piroetting) toward the same direction (for example always flipping away from the pilot) Chaos -- Flipping (while piroetting) toward the directions which continuously rotates 360 degree Simply put,Chaos is a special kind of PiroFlip with the flipping direction continuously changes. Curtis Youngblood is quoted as saying he's only done a perfect one a handfull of times. Szabo jr is the pimp of the move. I think Todd Bennet and Marcus Kim have them down too. Check it out http://www.flyinggiants.com/gallery/...ry.php?cat=602 |
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#51 | |||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 34
Posts: 891
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#52 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Carolina
Age: 51
Posts: 3,218
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Ahhh,feathering spindles aahhh umm. Dude, is there like an exploded view of choppers we could archive for reference? Would probably save you time/aggrivation and me my pride!! Thanks for the answers dude. I'm going to be a roundy round guy soon!
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#53 |
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Gohbee Dude
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cudahy, WI
Posts: 437
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The level of bling that will make a difference is very dependant on the heli in question.
For instance, a raptor 50 V2, the only part that needs an upgrade for most 3D is the head block. For the very most extreme 3D and/or if you are going to run a head speed well in excess of 2000 you may want to add the metal blade grips. I am at a point where I can tell the difference between metal and plastic blade grips. Most of the rest is just bling and the extra weight will actually reduce performance. For someone starting out all that the metal parts are going to do for you is raise the cost of a crash and look cool. The very best upgrade is still another case of fuel. I haven't seen a good exploded view labeled with the various common part names. Ill have to do some looking for one. the feathering shaft (also called the spindle depending on brand) is the shaft that goes thru the head an connects the main blade grips.
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Jeff Borowski |
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#54 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Carolina
Age: 51
Posts: 3,218
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The best upgrade is another case of fuel.
Dude,that one is going down as a Flying Giants rule of thumb. Nice work!! Guys I sure appreciate your help. I'm sure you get these questions all the time. I truly appreciate the time and energy. You guys sure get what the site is all about.; helping those less experienced than yourself and learning from those more so. Mighty proud of you guys, Thanks! |
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#55 |
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Gohbee Dude
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cudahy, WI
Posts: 437
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Oh MAn , now I'm gonna blush
I got a lot of free help when I was starting out and now it is my turn to share the wealth. I just wish everyone didn't live so far away.
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Jeff Borowski |
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#56 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 34
Posts: 891
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Kind of a pay it foward deal.
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#57 |
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Down Low..Too Slow..DOH!!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Findlay, OH
Posts: 1,188
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Hey guys, as I had posted earlier in the thread, I'm lookin for an electric that's bigger than the TREX or Shogun. A local guy mentioned a electric conversion for the Raptor 50. Have any of you tried this or actually seen one in person? The only reason I ask is because I've heard getting part for a Century "Swift" can be troublesom. Thoughts or comments?
Thanks, Neo |
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#58 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Age: 34
Posts: 891
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The swift is a bit smaller than the 50 (500-550 blades) Being that the swift is a electric based airframe it is going to take a lot less in the motor and battery department to get it to scoot. Yes raptor parts are more common, but there is no problems with shortages with swift parts, just less retailers carrying swift stuff. I think you will be better off with the swift.
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#59 |
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Gohbee Dude
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cudahy, WI
Posts: 437
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There is a eRaptor conversion in our club.
The thing is ballistic but just doesn't sound right ![]() I like my noisy engines. A 50 or bigger electric is very expensive for batteries and stuff.
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Jeff Borowski |
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#60 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South Carolina
Age: 51
Posts: 3,218
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You boys going to the XFC?
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