88" Extreme-Flight Yak Electrified Build

[Boogie]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Captain Carlton
	I need to find better tires. Very Light, but stronger. The foam ones get flat spots with 18 lbs weight. :-) - Richard

Try to get ahold of some Kavan tires for eg. here:
http://troybuiltmodels.com/Tires.htm#KAVAN

or the ones a bit lower.

[Captain Carlton]

For the Record...to Compare to other Planes...here are the individual component weights.

WEIGHT MEASUREMENTS:
Weights: Fuselage bare, not canopy, no Main gear, no tail Gear, not tail feathers, no cowl: 3.2 lbs
Muffler Box Wood Removed: 1.9oz
Cowel: 12.2 oz
Titanium HS-5955TG servoes: 2.2 oz (each)
Canopy: 13.6
Wing half with no aileron, no servo: 1lb 1.2 oz
Rudder with no hinges: 4.8 oz
Aileron, with hinges, with horn; 4.80 oz
Horizontal Stab Half with Elevator, with horn, no servo: 4.6 oz
Langing Gear (Original Metal): 12.8 oz
Landing Gear (CF Upgrade Graph Tech): 7.2oz
CF Wing Tube: 4.8oz.

[Captain Carlton]

OK... Temperature Update...My Hacker motor, after 10 minutes of IMAC practice is hovering arround 135 to 145 degrees. Ambient temp was 70, so does that mean if the outside temp is 100, the motor temp will be 165 to 175 ? That would be above red line.

My System is 12S, with Hacker A60-18L and a APC 24x12 TE prop.

[JagerBomb]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Captain Carlton
	OK... Temperature Update...My Hacker motor, after 10 minutes of IMAC practice is hovering arround 135 to 145 degrees. Ambient temp was 70, so does that mean if the outside temp is 100, the motor temp will be 165 to 175 ? That would be above red line. My System is 12S, with Hacker A60-18L and a APC 24x12 TE prop.

Captain,
It probably won't go up that much in the heat. The best way to combat the heat is either to modify your flying style or you can build a cooling duct on the lower part of the motor mount in the shape of a scoop. That will maximize airflow over the motor. I now have over 20 flights on mine and the batteries have really picked up. I'm gonna try moving the cg back next time out.

Mark

[Captain Carlton]

Mark,

Yah... I agree. My flying style is basic IMAC and some hovering (not much)...so I cannot thin that down much. I am thinking about putting a heat sync on my Hacker Metal Motor mount...kinda like the one on the Master Spin Controller (only bigger).

I have about 20 flights now as well. I am flying 4 to 5 flights every day. I have to cram for the Salinas, CA IMAC contest in two weeks.

I have the trimming pretty much worked out. The last issue is when on a vertical downline, the plane want to tuck a bit...negative pitch. Any ideas of what that is?

When I get the Heat Sync Mounted...I will post some photos. :-)

Thanks for the advice....

- Richard

[ou7475]

Hacker says that the 22 x 12 WE is the prop for this motor I was told today. I am currently flying the Extra 300 on A60 18L Fp 5000 6S1p X2 with Apc 24x12 E and 5 flights on Sat 86 amps 42 volts AuW is 18.2 pds. I have 8 flights on it now flyies very good but looking to reduce some weight to around 17 pds by ordering FP EVO 30 4500 6S1p X2 saves 7 oz droping spinner saves 4oz switched 1400 NICAD no reg to two reg one FP 1600 2S1p saves 3oz ordering CF gear from Graphtech - 8oz Total 22 oz savings plus more punch out of torque rolls and hover.

[Captain Carlton]

Todd,

Yah, weight savings is the way to go for sure!!!! I built out my Plane exactly as did Mark. Our weights came out exact. 18.6. But I dropped on the GraphTech landing gear, and I dropped to 18 oz even.

I banged around and ended up with two 2S-2000 Thunder Power Pro Lite Batteries. WAY-WAY-WAY overkill. I fly 6 or 7 flight and the batteries are down 25%. I can probably go with two 2S-1300 Thunder Power Pro Lite Batteries...for some savings. I could drop the spinner...but now the aesthetics start to suffer. I already dropped the LG Fairing, and Spats. I am going to add a couple of OZ for a Heat Sink...that should help keep the motor cool as it gets warmer. So, for a Sportsman class IMAC setup...this is great. If I was a TOC Unlimited contender...I think a 110 in Yak with a higher power reserve would be needed.

[JagerBomb]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ou7475
	Hacker says that the 22 x 12 WE is the prop for this motor I was told today. I am currently flying the Extra 300 on A60 18L Fp 5000 6S1p X2 with Apc 24x12 E and 5 flights on Sat 86 amps 42 volts AuW is 18.2 pds. I have 8 flights on it now flyies very good but looking to reduce some weight to around 17 pds by ordering FP EVO 30 4500 6S1p X2 saves 7 oz droping spinner saves 4oz switched 1400 NICAD no reg to two reg one FP 1600 2S1p saves 3oz ordering CF gear from Graphtech - 8oz Total 22 oz savings plus more punch out of torque rolls and hover.

I have tried several props on the Hacker and the 24X12E is the ticket. I have pulled 90 amps on my last 4 flights. With the 22X12 It barely has enough power to hover. If you still want to try them I will make you a smokin deal I have also tried the Mejlik 22x12E and a Xoar 23X10. Neither one was even close to the 24X12E.


Mark

[ou7475]

Did you try the 22x12 WE or just the 22x12e or the 22x12. Also have you tried the 25x12.5 E.

[Simpleton]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Captain Carlton
	I am going to add a couple of OZ for a Heat Sink...that should help keep the motor cool as it gets warmer.

I think some air ducts would do more for you than a heat sink, and probably be lighter. Just my $.02

[JagerBomb]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ou7475
	Did you try the 22x12 WE or just the 22x12e or the 22x12. Also have you tried the 25x12.5 E.

Yes, tried the 22x12we but I think the 25X12.5E will be too much. I'm already pulling 90 amps with the 24X12

Mark

[Simpleton]

Xoar has a 24x12 that's almost a dead on same outline as the 24x12 APCE, not sure how they compare amp draw wise. I'll hopefully get to run them both up here in a week or so.

And you were getting ~5300 RPM back earlier in the thread with the APCE 24x12, any idea what that number is now that your packs are coming on?

[Captain Carlton]

Yah...Heat wise, we're at the max for the APC 24x12 TE. As far as Air scoop...the whole front of the Yak is a scoop. :-) I'm not following. I built the scoop for the batteries....but how would I build a scoop for the motor? I set mine up the same as Mark's.

Because of the airflow of the spinner, the airflow to the motor is likely a swirling mess, and not a laminar flow. Anyone have a photo?

Thanks in advance :-)

[ou7475]

What is your timming set for the higher the timming the more power and hotter the motor and shorter the run time. Range is 22-30 with most people using 22-24.

[Simpleton]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Captain Carlton
	As far as Air scoop...the whole front of the Yak is a scoop. :-) .... Because of the airflow of the spinner, the airflow to the motor is likely a swirling mess, and not a laminar flow. Anyone have a photo?

I think you have answered your own question, the swirling air behind the spinner is just swirling. Dead air. Some ducts to grab that air and point it right onto the motor would help. I don't have any pics, since I don't have an A60 mounted up in anything, but maybe somebody that does will come along.