Ok Dudes Ready to build my 33% SD HP Yak 54.

[Jason Michael]

After talking with mikedanielle on the phone and correcting my first mistake of not adjusting for thrust offset on the firewall. First gasser that I am building on my own. Things like this can happen. He told me how to fix it and now I am confident it is very strong again. 30 min. epoxy and dowels tight enough that had to be tapped in with a hammer with extreme caution No more mistakes. This is the first, and last; I hope ! So, any pointers from people who been there done that feel free to help me out.
I'll post pics at the bottom of the thread and you will see what I am and have been talking about.
I am going to use the original hardware that comes with the plane. All ball links etc. Looks good enough for me. Otherwise here is a list of everything else. Maybe some stuff I do not even need or won't work.

SD models 33% Yak 54 HP version
ZDZ80 RV with Walbro WJ71carb and brisson pitts style smoke/muffler
CF wing and Stab tubes
SD CF landing gear
CF Tail wheel for up to 30 lb. aircraft by Graphtec
JR DS8711 (1 for now, we'll see how it does) on the Rudder
Hitec HS 5955 (6) 2 per aielron and per Elevator half
Hitec HS 5625MG for Throttle
Airwild Servo Arms 1.5" (6)
Air Wild 3" arm for Rudder
H9 Titanium links
AR 9000 RX
Smart Fly Power Expander EQ10
Smart Fly Super Regulator w/ Adjustable HD? Whatever that is??
Smart Fly Failsafe Switch w/Slider
Smart Fly Deans Ultra Connector jumper male to female 6"
TBM Li-ion 2 cell 2600 mAh 7.4V to reg/power expander (2)
TBM Li-ion 2 Cell 2400 mAh 7.4V for ignition (worried about this with falkon ignition and reg below)
6V MPI Miracle switch integral 6v regulator,universal plug and it fails in the on position
Fromeco Ion cube with Brian GUI to charge battery packs.

Flying the plane with a JR X9303 2.4GHZ radio

The rudder on this plane is MASSIVE ! Way bigger than the rudder on my 31% Aeroworks Edge 540T (builders kit version). Hopefully the one 8711 will be enough. If not I am going to throw another one in there.
I also never messed with anything like the Quest Smart fly equipment. If someone who really knows what they are doing with that stuff would take a look at it i would appreciate it. Some people are telling me I don't need the fail safe switch; some say I do. Now I don't know what to believe. Then guys are telling me to stay with 2 rx's instead of the smart fly stuff. Then mind was like---> Sorry already bought and paid for.
Last thing I am worried about is frying my ignition module with the 7.4V Li-ion pack and the 6V MPI Miracle Switch w/ Integral 6v regulator. What does integral 6v mean? Read bottom paragraph : http://www.falkon.cz/as.htm
The module is on a ZDZ80RV Silver head. Falkon (blue) ignition. Says 4.8V to 6V // 60 to 80 ccm.
I also have guys telling me to run nothing but a 4 cell 4.8V NiMH pack or NiCd? Ok so what do i do since I was sold and told to use the setup I listed by a pretty reputable Gasser parts/aircraft dealer.
Glad I have 2 1/2 more months to finish this before the snow is gone

[DannyFlyer]

Is this the new sd yak from thunder tiger or the old one?

Danny

[Jason Michael]

This the SD models yak, formerly Aviation models I believe. The wings say TOC Extreme on them and are supposed to have carbon fiber stringers in them...
this is it here, 33% HP version, Color Russian Thunder (also known as Red
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/AMY54.htm

[gapple12]

I have about 20 flights on mine. I also have the 8711 on rudder and have PLENTY of power. I have heard of a problem where people are getting a little tail wag. Mine was fixed by making the rubber cables tighter and getting the 4 inch offset SWB arm.

I also have the 80 RV and it has plenty of punch. I just put that WJ-71 carb on it and brought it to life. For batteries I do not use Li-ion just because I have seen way to many planes crash from regulators going out. Plus, more connections that can fail, but thats just my two cents. They are great for power and lots of flights though.

Good luck, keep us posted on the build.

[mikel7099]

Alright get to it. I am looking forward to the progress. Take your time. You will get it done!!! Need any help let me know.

[mikel7099]

Alright here are the pics. If you need more let me know.

[Jason Michael]

Nice, That will do.

[thewrap]

Great build can't wait to see this thing fly.

[Jason Michael]

Alright I finally got the engine mounted and it looks pretty perfect. The calipers/tape confirm that

I went a little crazy cutting out the bottom of the box for the for the carb, but that is not a problem and will be reinforced under there anyhow.
with the help of a generous member the first gas mount for me was pretty painless and I was pumped when it turned out good.
Now I can get cooking on the plane. Here are some pics for you guys.

Mike, I did not use any standoffs and I have a smidgeon over a quarter inch of clearance from my my prop to my cowel. That is good right? If not I would have to open the firewall a bit more for the carb and I would rather not do that.
I will post pics of my engine and exhaust cutouts as soon as I clean them up .

[luv2flyguy]

I would think that you would want more clearence between the prop and the cowl, I read a post on something about that, when I built mine I had anywhere from 3/4" to 1" clearence. I will not hurt you as a matter of fact it will help balance the plane. There's a thread on RCU about this plane and that's what everyone done. Just my thoughts, great looking plane.

[Jason Michael]

Here is the cutouts. If I have to move this engine forward i will have to buy another cowel for it to look up to my standards. I went to far back as it is on the muffler relief cut; much more than I would of liked! The hole will grow bigger I move the engine forward. So it is going to have to stay where it is for now. It is exactly 3/8"from prop to outer most spot on the cowel. The only way it should hit is in the event of a spectacular nose smash... Balancing should not be a problem either. another 1/8 to 3/8" should not make that big of a difference will it?

[mikel7099]

You are probably gonna run into a couple problems that i see. One is balance, yes a 1/4 inch on the nose will make a difference. Two is cooling problems. Three prop clearance, that looks close. I believe the insructions called for 3/4 or 1/2 minimum prop to cowl clearance.

[gapple12]

I dont think it makes a difference. Mine is about 1/2 inch from the cowl and no issues. Although I dont have a spinner, but flies great!! Keep the pics coming. Install looks sweet.

[gapple12]

Oh...Forgot to mention to seal the crap out of that motor box. These ZDZ engines spit a lot of fuel out on choke and will soak your motor box. I simply built a wall to keep fuel out of the plane. Also keep an eye on those "L" brackets on the box. One of mine split down the middle about 30 flights out. Glad I noticed it before I flew again. Good luck

[Jason Michael]

ordered airfilters for the engines to catch spit fuel out of the carb. Painted the box and down past the tank lightly with 30min epoxy as well.
I have not installed any baffling or spoiler underneath yet. But why is cooling going to get me Mike? With the baffle and spoiler in place cooling will still be an issue ?
Not really a problem to throw 1/4" standoffs in there. Cut them from some wood dowel here and good to go. As much as I don't want to; due to laziness I guess, or young children. However one chooses to perceive it.
I also have 3/4" aluminum standoffs, but I think that will be to much.
Main reason no standoffs are in there is because I could not find 1/4" aluminum and don't really have a way to cut dowels completely straight I think. Not sure if my table saw will cut that small and be straight to boot..... Find out in the morning.