DAWGHOUSE YAK 55 BUILD

[joeo78]

interesting i'll try the gorilla glue on the tail gear

[Black Bird]

This is a great plane. Check out the new eight ball checker. The blue is the prototype and the silver is the current model. I like the upgraded case. It looks more durable.

[Black Bird]

Cowl, plumming, and pull-pull system left to complete. This plane builds together very quickly. I think I spent more time trying to decide where to put things rather than building. I am sure others will go into greater detail, but until then, I hope my pictures help.

My power system by the pictures is self-explanatory. Instead of an expander, I am using two recievers, two regulators, wolvering switch, and two 2600 fromeco Li-Ion batteries. One regulator has two outputs rated at 6 amps total and the other with three outputs rated at 9 amps total. Each regulator is powering both receivers. Nine amps will be distributed to the ailerons and the rudder. Six amps will be distibuted to the elevator servos and throttle. A smart-fly ignition cut switch will be connected to both receivers. The batteries are rated at six amps continuous with a nine amp burst. I can draw 12 amps continuous with a maximum burst of 15 amps. Will my 50cc plane ever draw that amount of current? Who knows, but I know I have adequate power running to my servos. Economical and Efficient.

[zoomer260]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Black Bird
	Cowl, plumming, and pull-pull system left to complete. This plane builds together very quickly. I think I spent more time trying to decide where to put things rather than building. I am sure others will go into greater detail, but until then, I hope my pictures help. My power system by the pictures is self-explanatory. Instead of an expander, I am using two recievers, two regulators, wolvering switch, and two 2600 fromeco Li-Ion batteries. One regulator has two outputs rated at 6 amps total and the other with three outputs rated at 9 amps total. Each regulator is powering both receivers. Nine amps will be distributed to the ailerons and the rudder. Six amps will be distibuted to the elevator servos and throttle. A smart-fly ignition cut switch will be connected to both receivers. The batteries are rated at six amps continuous with a nine amp burst. I can draw 12 amps continuous with a maximum burst of 15 amps. Will my 50cc plane ever draw that amount of current? Who knows, but I know I have adequate power running to my servos. Economical and Efficient.

Looking good !! Work and life is getting in the way on mine today and next weekend. What screws did you use to mount the servo arms with ? I've spent 90% of my time so far figuring out what bolts/screws go where.
Also how do you plan to locate the the cowl mounting hole locations ? On a repaired cowl I've used a modified sullivan clevis with a pin coming outside the clevis and locked the pin in the blind nut and slide the cowl on using the remaining sides hole to locate the cowl mounting hole. However this cowl is too tight do do that.
Any ideas ?
Also since I'm using one rudder servo will a single HS-5645 be enough ? I know I've used less before but the rudder is as big as the 33% Extra 230 I had before.

[Black Bird]

	Quote: Originally Posted by zoomer260
	Looking good !! Work and life is getting in the way on mine today and next weekend. What screws did you use to mount the servo arms with ? I've spent 90% of my time so far figuring out what bolts/screws go where. Also how do you plan to locate the the cowl mounting hole locations ? On a repaired cowl I've used a modified sullivan clevis with a pin coming outside the clevis and locked the pin in the blind nut and slide the cowl on using the remaining sides hole to locate the cowl mounting hole. However this cowl is too tight do do that. Any ideas ? Also since I'm using one rudder servo will a single HS-5645 be enough ? I know I've used less before but the rudder is as big as the 33% Extra 230 I had before.

Some of them I did not use. They would not fit in the pre-drilled wholes of my SWB servo arms. Tomorrow I will take pictures of what screws I use where. And I do have an old school method of putting the cowl on.

About the 5645 being enough. If Scott says that it is enough, than I would first go with his recommendation. Anything more is pilot discretion based on intended flight performance. Scott advertised using the Big Boi Futaba 5050 on his rudder. It is 264 oz/in @6V. For extreme 3-D, such-as a knife-edge spins or knife-edge loops, this plane would benifit from higher torque servos. I speak broadly because I have not flown the plane. From past experiences with the 5645s, I would upgrade to a higher torque servo or run two 5645s on the rudder. I have done that in the past with a pull-pull system with success.

[vsnap]

Zoomer 5645 would be a bit small for this rudder, a lot of blow back would occur. I would step it up a bit if possible. A tip for mounting the cowl: Walmart (in like flynt) sells a small neon flash light in their school section. It has a 6" flexible tip and magnet on the base. I taped one to a dowel and bent the light bulb section 90degrees. Stuck it in the cowl on the back side of the blind nuts and let the light shine through. Make sure it is 90degrees. Makes a perfect locator for the mark.
Also the little black silicon rubber washers about six of them go on the cowl screw with the step entering the screw hole. Just push a screw threw the hole and they pop out of the rupper mat.
Lastly videos are up on the web site for a preview. Remember that was the second flight so nothing two hard was done...
Scott

[Black Bird]

I did the cowl installation. It went very well. I will let the pictures do the talking.

[Black Bird]

First find the location of the cowl with the hatched installed.

[Black Bird]

Makes strips of wax paper and I used electrical tape in the pictures. Mark the whole locations with a GP dead center whole locator. Start with the top left or right whole.

[Black Bird]

Using the dead center whole locator, the modeler should be within a sixteenth of an inch of the true whole location. Using the locator, slide the drill bit back and forth to enlarge the whole slightly to insure alignment. Using a one-eighth drill bit, enlarge the whole to accomedate a 4-40 half inch long bolt. I used the half-inch long philips bolts included in the hardware to mount the cowl.

[Black Bird]

Finishing pictures. The cowl lines do not match up exactly with the fuse. I lined them up on both sides as best as possible.

[Black Bird]

As one can see, the cowl installation turned out very well. The cowl/hatch clearence is minimal and bolt alignment is within tolerences. Next is the pull-pull system.

[vsnap]

BlackBird, make sure you have the silicon washers on the cowel screws. Good job I can see the paint is off a little. I will make note.

[Black Bird]

Right on big homie, I was wondering what those little black things were for. After I posted the pictures, I went back and added them. It does make for a cleaner looking installation. Finished the pull-pull. One line turned out longer than the other. Better to error on the side of caution. Tension is nice and tight. Control is positive with slop being minimum to nun. I will post pics later.

[zoomer260]

	Quote: Originally Posted by vsnap
	Zoomer 5645 would be a bit small for this rudder, a lot of blow back would occur. I would step it up a bit if possible. A tip for mounting the cowl: Walmart (in like flynt) sells a small neon flash light in their school section. It has a 6" flexible tip and magnet on the base. I taped one to a dowel and bent the light bulb section 90degrees. Stuck it in the cowl on the back side of the blind nuts and let the light shine through. Make sure it is 90degrees. Makes a perfect locator for the mark. Also the little black silicon rubber washers about six of them go on the cowl screw with the step entering the screw hole. Just push a screw threw the hole and they pop out of the rupper mat. Lastly videos are up on the web site for a preview. Remember that was the second flight so nothing two hard was done... Scott

I figured that's what the grommets were for and I did try and use a light to do as you mention but I couldn't get the angle needed.