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#1 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 44
Posts: 25
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I have researched this subject and havent found a solid answer. Some say that Locktite 518, which I havent been able to find, works and some say it doesnt. I have a new TOC and it has leaked from day one. I have tried to tighten, loosen, different block and anything else I can think of. Any suggestions? Does anyone make an aluminum aftermarket block? Like the motor and the extra power but this issue is pushing me back to a DA. Thanks
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#2 |
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tissue ? cry baby jack wagon!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: pyote,texas
Age: 58
Posts: 2,651
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you might try good old fasioned form a gasket in a tube.i used to use it on triumph engine cases to seal them and it did work,but alittle goes a long way use it thin.it comes in a non hardening formula and is oil and gas proof
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#3 |
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Would be, if I could be
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I have a spare leaky one on the shelf if you want it, solved it the way you mentioned in post #1
__________________
Confuscious say... man who have model airplanes... needs a wife with job. NOW THAT HE HAS ONE FOR HIMSELF![]() Member of the TAS 2007 ROTW Boat Race Team (The WINNERS) ![]() ![]() IMAC Sequence Comittee IMAC Rules Comittee ASAA Life member www.scaleaeros.com.au Home of ASAA www.desertaircraft.com.au |
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#4 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 515
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Use an automotive air conditioning sealant, we use it at work on Rolls Royce carby's and have never had one back with another leak since they have been done with the stuff. Another alternative is motorcycle case sealant.
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#5 |
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Mother Hucker +
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You can also try Permex its a non hardening sealent I used it on my ZDZ80 head and crankcase works a treat. Any of thre non hardening sealants that are heat and fuel proof should work fine,just dont be to heavy handed with it most times it only take avery light smear on each surface. The stuff the Hobbyman recommended istop shelf stuff just cant remember the name, its meant to be the best around.
__________________
(ASAA) www.scaleaeros.com.au DESERT AIRCRAFT AUSTRALIA: NUMBER 1 FOR PRODUCT AND CUSTOMER SERVICE. |
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#6 |
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//////////////////////////////
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Stralya - down there aye bloke
Posts: 4,267
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Threebond is the stuff. I used the silver one. Took my block off spent 5ive minutes putting a super thin stream between each layer and now not a drop, and i got to keep the power gain. But i stress dont use to much for it could wind up in the reed valve.
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#7 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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Sounds like good stuff to have. Is this the "threebond silver" you were referring to:
http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/produc...6700/6731.html |
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#8 |
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Dumb Thumbin
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Las Vegas Nv.
Posts: 120
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This is what i have always used . It's the best
ThreeBondŽ 1211 Sealant
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#9 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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Xippy dude,
Got a link to a supplier or internet site where guys far from the big smoke can get hold of it. Kiwi |
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#10 |
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I piss excellence!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bossier City, Louisiana
Age: 35
Posts: 582
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Same as Kiwi, where do you get this stuff and is it used just on the carb blocks are can it be used on cylinder heads also?
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#11 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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http://www.pro-flo.com/three_bond_products.htm
I googled it and purchased from this website, $13.95 per tube. Some sites were selling for $18'ish. Jim W. |
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#12 |
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I piss excellence!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bossier City, Louisiana
Age: 35
Posts: 582
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Appreciate it, will order a tube to have on hand.
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#13 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 44
Posts: 25
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I couldnt find the Three bond so I went with another recomendation. I tried Hondabond that is available at any Honda cycle shop. Now that I know where to get the Three Bond (thanks Jim) I will use that if this doesnt work. So far so good with the Hondabond.
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#14 |
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Wrong Rudder Ras
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South Africa, GP, Centurion
Age: 53
Posts: 193
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Hi guys, I also have a leaky block. Sanded it smooth and is sealing well now. Problem is that no matter what needle settings we use, the engine dies when the throttle is opened. The hole from the block to the diaphram also seems to be in the wrong place! The hole in the carb body and the hole in the block is on opposite sides of the intake. Is this right? Any help is welcome.
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#15 |
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That's at least a 9
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 1,773
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The holes in the carb block and the holes in the carb line up. The throttle arm should be over the holes in the carb block. The throttle arm is on the left side of the engine.
The block itself is made of Ryton, and once it's warped, it is next to impossible to get it flat unless you have a surface plate to work with. Your better off getting a new one from AI or Cactus |
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