Motor mount pics for .40 profile electric?

[exeter_acres]

Greets...

Going to do my first bit bigger electric...
Going to do an electric profile.

The new EF Yak (due any day now)
with the Torque 4014 motor....

anyone converted a .40 profile to electric... could you post one or two pics of how you mounted the motor?

most profiles are the same with the rails, but curious how others may have mounted an outrunner?

I have an idea in my head, just not sure...

TIA,
Exeter

[Simpleton]

You can bolt a couple of pieces of like 1" aluminum angle to the sides, oriented vertically with the flange forward. Put them just far enough back to rear mount the motor where the drive washer comes out where it should, make them your "firewall". Strong, light, cheap, simple, doesn't look too bad if you dress the corners.

[exeter_acres]

Hmm... I was thinking triangle stock and a firewall... but I like that idea

[Matchless]

Curtis, glad to hear you are going to do it as an E bird!!! Should be fun!

I've engineered several E conversions of profiles, including one for my Chinn Yakk Kit. I've included pictures below.

I have not however engineered a mount for the Chinn Yakk ARF. Something Like the pics below might work, but I can't remember if I drew in enough 'meat' to bolt that to.

I'm thinking appropriately cut 90 degree alu as described above would be appropriate and effective. .

[exeter_acres]

Good Stuff... Thanks!!!

Any reinforcement behind the "firewall"

or just the slots in the "rails"??

[Matchless]

Slots in the rails to 'contain' the firewall, and then big tri-stock behind it.

Let me know if there is any other way I can help.... : )

[Matchless]

Curtis, I just recieved an email with the following pic attached. Supposedly a very nice flying E-Bird....

[Simpleton]

Looks like an inrunner, though.

[Matchless]

	Quote:
	Looks like an inrunner, though.

Correct....

[exeter_acres]

Hmmmm... still torn on this project.....

were would I put a big ole 5 cell pack??

[Simpleton]

I'd try to put it in the wing, through the fuse if possible. Or 2 smaller packs, one in each wing. I've done both, but am unfamiliar with the construction of the EF Chinn Yak. You might even mount it in the wing, next to the fuse, and put everything else as far outboard in the other wing as possible. I hate having packs slung on the sides of profiles.

[lespy]

Here's how i did it on my EF Chinn Yak:






I used 2 pieces of L-profiles 25mm x 25mm, 1mm thick. (1"x1", 1/16" thick) I screwed these against the rails for the nitro engine, and put 2 pieces of GFK "2 1/2 deg thrust plate" from swanyshouse between the front of the L-profile and the cross to which the motor is attached.

For the Lipo i cut out a piece of balsa out of the root rib in order for it to fit, and reinforced with some 1/32" ply. Lipo's are as close to the leading edge as possible! This way CG was perfect (used light 5245mg's in the tail).

(sorry for bad pic's, taken with mobile phone)

esc mounted in the cutout for the nitro engine.
For more pic's see http://lespy2405.googlepages.com/yak55sp-e (in dutch, but u can use a translation site or just look at the pic's

[Simpleton]

That's basically how I would have done it, but moved the angles back to where the prop was just in front of the front of the fuse like in Matchless' build shot. You'd have to notch the engine rails out a little to clear the motor can, but they wouldn't have to support anything.

[lespy]

That was my first thought too, but then i wouldn't be able to put the battery inside the wing & obtain the correct CG, not with the pretty light torque outrunner anyways..

[scalefreak]

I've used Jeremy C's mounting method for axi's on mojo and chinn yak kits in the past...works flawlessly