DA85 on pipe! Results please.

[crhammond]

26x12 Mej is almost as quiet as a 3-blade. Much quieter than the PT 28x10 at WOT - but with the 28x10 you don't often use more than 50% throttle... so most of the time it is pretty good.

My 26x12 on the 100 with cans is around 6400 - and the performance is really unlimited in a 27lb Comp-Arf 260. Long vertical up lines at 50% throttle, plenty of thrust and speed. I can't tell any noise difference over a 3-blade it is really quiet.

I am amazed the 85 turns the 28x10PT at 6700. Thats 100rpm more than I get on the DA100 with pipes - mind you I need to re-test since leaning and playing with headers. But still, wow thats awesome and with the reduction in weight you'd have a big foamy feel.

[sprice50]

	Quote: Originally Posted by crhammond
	I am amazed the 85 turns the 28x10PT at 6700. Thats 100rpm more than I get on the DA100 with pipes - mind you I need to re-test since leaning and playing with headers. But still, wow thats awesome and with the reduction in weight you'd have a big foamy feel.

TBrum was actually running a Mej 28x10 for the 6760 and not a PT which has a slightly higher load. See his other prop testing too.

http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...tml#post458955

Tbrum: "I just switched mine to AmSoil 100:1, since I've got a solid 3 gallons of break-in through it... I had to lean out the low and high about 1/16th of a turn and wow.... I'm now spinning a Mej 28x10 at 6760 rpm consistent!!"

[tbrum]

	Quote: Originally Posted by sprice50
	Tbrum: "I just switched mine to AmSoil 100:1, since I've got a solid 3 gallons of break-in through it... I had to lean out the low and high about 1/16th of a turn and wow.... I'm now spinning a Mej 28x10 at 6760 rpm consistent!!"

Hey Shaun... great news... I'm glad we're getting the same... This baby is a powerhouse!

I wish we could get PT props here in Toronto... I'd love to see what the DA85/KS1090 set-up would spin a 28x10 PT versus crhammond's DA100 on twin pipes!!

According to DA, the 85/KS Pipe is equal power to the 100/twin KS Pipe set-up, but it would be great to validate!!

I have spun a 25x12-3Blade Mejzlik on my 85/KS Pipe... I'm spinning 6300rpm static and noise is the same as the Mejzlik 28x10, but thrust is way, way less... I didn't find it very impressive at all!!

I'm still looking around here for a Mejzlik 29x10 or a Mejzlik 28x12 to give it a try!!.... I think there's an opportunity here to get the RPM's down a bit (Ie: stop the ripping) and get more thrust than a 28x10 Mej. My 28x10 Menz and 28B Vess bring the rpms down a bit, but thrust and noise suffers compared to the 28x10 Mej.

Cheers

Trev

[sprice50]

My bet is on the 28x12 for demos and 29x10 for IMAC. Just order one of each and a PT from Desert Aircraft You'll have it in time for testing next weekend Perhaps they'll give you a break in price for doing the testing for them... worth a try!

[dbcaster]

O.k. here are some pics of the beginning of the install of the KS 1090 in the Jtec Extra. It actually fits quite well and will only take a little bit of patch work. One question, how critical is it to have the mount on the seem of the pipe? You can see mine if mounted on the former is behind the seem. I really like the mount were it is since it re-connects the former. Also, I will need to come up with some sort of mount on the front.

[tbrum]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dbcaster
	O.k. here are some pics of the beginning of the install of the KS 1090 in the Jtec Extra. It actually fits quite well and will only take a little bit of patch work. One question, how critical is it to have the mount on the seem of the pipe? You can see mine if mounted on the former is behind the seem. I really like the mount were it is since it re-connects the former. Also, I will need to come up with some sort of mount on the front.

Hey there! That KS1090 seems to fit very nicely in the fuse of your Jtec!

The seam is the Center of Gravity for the Pipe, is a bit stronger and also is the perfect diameter for the KS Komfortmount System... If you support the pipe in the front and back, there is no need to mount it on the seam (even if you mount it on the seam, DA still recommends supporting it in the front so that you don't wear out your flex coupler on the header).

Cheers

Trev

[dick hanson]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dbcaster
	O.k. here are some pics of the beginning of the install of the KS 1090 in the Jtec Extra. It actually fits quite well and will only take a little bit of patch work. One question, how critical is it to have the mount on the seem of the pipe? You can see mine if mounted on the former is behind the seem. I really like the mount were it is since it re-connects the former. Also, I will need to come up with some sort of mount on the front.

Nice setup--
Having used a number of KS pipes - they are fragile - -just a fact -
You will likely dent the pipe with your setup.
also you MUST restrain the pipe from slipping aft -the internal pressure wants to blow it off and in many cases -it will
clamp at the front and every joint!!and if possible put a restraining device in place. A good one is a very rough section where the pipe attaches to the header -then use a very strong spring clamp - these will bite hard into the teflon . I also prefer to use a stop at the end of the pipe - a small wood/silicone setup (like you used to support the pipe) but simply designed to hold it from moving aft Up front make a silicone rubber padded support that applies NO pressure up down or sideways on the header/pipe joint - this is important. You can loosen or break the header or couplers.
Very high exhaust temps can gradually cause the pipe to slip aft - and it will slip off at the worst possible moment . so check this part out thoroughly.
to recap - the engine and pipe should never be forced into a position -the header can be tweaked to get exact alignment --then-- lock the pipe into that position. The couplers will do the rest if the header is a flex center type.
My 80 ZDZ's are similar setups and I made a number of mistakes before I found out that you have to get alignments perfect ---- then--- lock the pipe in position.
It'sall worth doint -once you match the prop load to your pipe setup - that takes a little listening and needle adjusting - just don't be afraid to experiment a bit . and DO NOT get it into mind that some particular prop is "best" --just use one which matches your pipe setup.

[dbcaster]

Thanks Dick and Trev,
I am just at the point of putting all the pieces together and mocking it up so I have not put the clamps on the coupling yet. I have actually seen the cans come off a buddies plane in flight so I will put the stopper on the back. After I posted the pics I figured out a way to put the mount on the seam so I will do that. The pipe does fit nice and I only have one real issue. The only way I can get the pipe in the fuse is with the mount loose. Once it is in I will need to glue the mount in and build the box around it. The main problem with that is, I won't be able to get it out without taring everything apart. I am not sure if I will need to take it out so this may not be an issue.

[dick hanson]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dbcaster
	Thanks Dick and Trev, I am just at the point of putting all the pieces together and mocking it up so I have not put the clamps on the coupling yet. I have actually seen the cans come off a buddies plane in flight so I will put the stopper on the back. After I posted the pics I figured out a way to put the mount on the seam so I will do that. The pipe does fit nice and I only have one real issue. The only way I can get the pipe in the fuse is with the mount loose. Once it is in I will need to glue the mount in and build the box around it. The main problem with that is, I won't be able to get it out without taring everything apart. I am not sure if I will need to take it out so this may not be an issue.

Make a removable mount -- If you do -you will never need it
If you don't, you will need it and under worst possible circumstances. Dick M(Murphy) Hanson

[dbcaster]

Dick,
Sound words of advice

[Henna_Ojisan]

	Quote: Originally Posted by dick hanson
	Very high exhaust temps can gradually cause the pipe to slip aft - and it will slip off .

I'll second Dick here on that - had my pipe came off on the first flight and WOW - it was LOUD!!! Open header and mess... I used a single stainless screw into the header through the coupler inside the spring clip. The pipe side is good, just the header side came loose...

[sprice50]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Henna_Ojisan
	I'll second Dick here on that - had my pipe came off on the first flight and WOW - it was LOUD!!! Open header and mess... I used a single stainless screw into the header through the coupler inside the spring clip. The pipe side is good, just the header side came loose...

I made sure I slid the coupler over the bump at the end of the header - enough that the clamp is completely on the engine side of the bump. Also for some reason the header clamp was extremely small and hard to get on which I suppose is a great thing but it was insane to get on. The clamp on the pipe side was tight to get on but not as bad.

db - glad you are going to use the comfort mount at the seam. Supporting at the CG will reduce the load on the header. Also the comfort mount allows the pipe to expand backwards a little (the rubber will just bend backwards) and the system is isolated from the frame.

I wouldn't build a pipe tunnel. There is no need. For my pipe I left 50% of the cannister inlet in the fuse open and made the pipe exit about 140% of that to allow for hot air exiting. I just put a little covering right over the bottom of the trays so that direct heat did not hit the electronics. I have placed my hand within 5mm of the pipe on landing and it is not hot at all.

My system would have been removable if I had made the rear brace (one below the exit lip see pg 17 pic 4 http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...tml#post441045) removable. The easiest thing to do would be to make a hatch from just above the comfort mount to the exit including the lip. Just remove hatch, loosen from mount and header and you're done. I thought about it, but went flying instead

Save yourself time tightening the mount (first pic http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/f...tml#post441044) Make sure you use the pliers right below the standoff as this is where the washer is inside the rubber.

Another thing... Prime the engine now if you can. After battling to get mine to draw fuel first day at the field I just took out the spark plug and spun the prop while blowing on the tank vent line. Never needed to since, but will always get the engine drawing fuel before the first trip out.

[dbcaster]

Here is a pic of the final install in the Jtec 300. I have a mount up front just behind the coupling and I added a stopper at the back of the pipe.

[Henna_Ojisan]

Looks nice and clean - looking forward to hearing your flight report!

[sprice50]

db - looks excellent.... it will be awesome. Are you going to put some covering or leave the pipe exposed? I would place a bet on 1 turn low needle, 1.5 turn high and 6400-6450rpm first run on a 28x10 Mej.

Just a matter of time until everyone runs this setup