In depth build - Krill Katana 39%

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by nickb
	Joe, I'm still toying with the idea of running 2 8711s in the tail for the rudder with 1 8711 per stab. I've got carbon tail tubes to lighten it up, but I'm still paranoid about being tail heavy. It also have the 1 oz of lead in the elevator counter balance mod. Any thoughts?

You should be OK, with this set up...4 servos max in the tail...I wouldnt go over that. The plane flies very well with a little aft CG - but even better slightly nose heavy...gives a more 'locked in' feel. I say go for it....worse case scenario, you add a little nose weight, the plane should still come out around 39 lbs or a little less.

Joe

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dan_nO
	Hey Joe, looks GREAT, and I will be following this ! Just got Brendans Extra 260 done, the Katana will be on the bench before sunrise This is just in time ! Counter balance mod ? Im fixin to get taken to school here boys LOL. Joe, you going do a U.S. version of written instructions for the Katana ? Looks great to me !

Hi Danny,

Yes, I will be doing an instruction manual, taking a majority of the info from this build thread and tidying it up a bit.

The C/B mod is something that Jason Noll had done on his Katana when he flew one. C/b are just that, used to make the elevators to balance at nuetral, you just have to drill a small hole and put in some lead shot or what have you to aid in the elevator to stay at or near nuetral...this helps remove some of the load off the servo. I have not done this mod on any of my plans. Two planes have been set up with 4ea servos in the stabs, and my primary IMAC plane only has 1ea servo per stab...with no added weight to the C/B...I (knock on wood) have not run into any problems with this set up....but go with what your 'gut' is telling you and to make you feel more comforatble when flying the aircraft.

Joe

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Comp Arf Kid
	Great Job on the build cant wait to get mine going!

Thanks for the compliments - feel free to post your pics and any questions through out this build, i will answer them the best I can.

Thanks,
Joe

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Comp Arf Kid
	Joe, Any resonable difference in mounting the servo in side the surface rather that outside? I was planning on mounting my servos on my krill out side of the wings. What do you think?

Nope, strictly preference. I had one Katana from John Glezellis with the servos on the outside...I asked the same question...his response was, 'so I can visually check and make sure the servos are secure instead of having to pull the servo hatches off.'

With that being said, I say go with what you prefer. I see nothing wrong with either install.

Joe

[xtra330]

Hi Wayne,

I know exactly what you mean...I am in the same boat, my friend. But I will be going to Griffin to get the season under way. We'll holler at ya.

Joe

[Rocket Ron]

Wayne,
Your daughter actually said she'd like to go to Griffin with her dad for her birthday! PS...money talks!

Joe,
You've just about got this Katana thing down now!

Also...since Jim cut into the horn mounts and the block doesn't touch both surfaces, I'm giving serious thought to Rocket City and dowells.

Also...I'm liking the idea of surface mounted servos. I think it would be an easier install plus I too like the idea of visual checks of the servos and linkages.

At this point I can be easily swayed if you can give me a good reason one over the other?????
BTW...time sure goes slow when you're waiting on the truck !!!!
Ron

[xtra330]

soon time will come grasshopper - April round corner - soon you will have nice aircraft in possesion....you get that ZN line fixed??

John Glezellis had actually done an article on surface mounting the servos on the Krill - I will see if I can find it, or maybe he can chime in...

[wmat7039]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Rocket Ron
	Also...I'm liking the idea of surface mounted servos. I think it would be an easier install plus I too like the idea of visual checks of the servos and linkages. At this point I can be easily swayed if you can give me a good reason one over the other????? BTW...time sure goes slow when you're waiting on the truck !!!! Ron

Ron... I think the surface mount would be easier... I just spoke with Joe about this.
The "other" Wayne

[Dan_nO]

Joe, would you happen to have any pics with measurements as to your layout for centerline for the firewall ?

[xtra330]

Hi Danny,

Pretty much use the seams on the fuse to establish the vertical center line...then measure over to the right (if viewing the aircrfat from the front). Here are some shots of my plane and the last two are from Krill.

hope this helps.

Joe

[Rocket Ron]

Joe,
ZN is ready. Found why it went dead stick. I was getting ready to re-plumb everything, grabbed the fuel line going from tank to carb and literally fell off the tank. Thankful for an easy find!

Wayne, I "believe" I did surface mount servos on my old 3m CompArf.

Joe, do you notice any difference between the 2 elevator servos vs. the four?

[xtra330]

Ron, glad to hear the plane is back up and flying - again ;-)

About the number of servos - I would probably go out on a limb here and say that the 4 servos in stabs provides a little bit more of a locked in feel as opposed to the the 2 servos....but not to the extent to where its detrimental in flying characteristics....I am still goingto fly my primary plane with 2 servos in the tail - I had put on a heavy backplate spinner on the plane and that helped with the CG putting the plane slightly more nose heavy - which also provides a locked in feel.

Either way, I dont think you will go wrong...simply matter of choice and preference of servos used.

[xtra330]

Last night I had went ahead and installed the elevator control horns. Got started at around 9:00 PM and finished at 11:00 with the horns glued in and drying with BVM Aeropoxy. The pictures supplied will give you a good understanding in the process taken to intsall these horns.

First thing you must do, is to temp install the servo arms. Then measure from the elevator LE to the HINGE LINE, in this case I had a measurment of roughly .70” – take in cosideration the thickness of the ‘spar’ (hingline) and add another .10” to the .70” – do this at both the tip and the root.

Attach the elevator to the stab, then take a straight edge and rest it against the servo arm, mark a line onto the elevator...now take your assembled control horn and line it up beside the mark you just made and pencil in the perimeter of the control horn. Verify that you are over the hardpoint in the elevator by holding it against a bright light - this way you can see the inner structure of the elevator.

Take an Xacto knife and cut away the skin, then use a dremel tool to remove the wood from the elevator, trial fit the horns until thy fit properly...only go as deep as the control horn (which can be shortened in height if need be).

Once satisfied with the fit – use Epoxy w/ milled fiberglass or BVM Aeropoxy (or equivalant). Use a square to ensure the horns at 90* to the surface, you can also verify the control horns being vertical in relation to the servo arms by viewing from the back and view it from tip to root to make sure the horns are at the same angle to eachother.

[xtra330]

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