In depth build - Krill Katana 39%

[Dan_nO]

Hey Mark, did you get my check I sent you ? Those fuel dots are SWEET ! Put one in the 260 and Brendan really likes it !

[McFueler]

	Quote: Originally Posted by xtra330
	Hey Mark - Yep, those are the two....overall the class did really well! Mark, you had gotten alot of 'cudos' about your flying...keep it up!! Joe

Thanks ! I'll get up there with you some day .

[McFueler]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dan_nO
	Hey Mark, did you get my check I sent you ? Those fuel dots are SWEET ! Put one in the 260 and Brendan really likes it !

Yea it came while I was at the contest , Glad you like them .

[McFueler]

Hey Joe , I got to see that J&J tail wheel while I was down there and I liked the looks of it are you going to use one of those on this plane ?

[xtra330]

Hi Mark,

I need to talk to the owner of the plane about the tailwheel. Both John's are great guys and are willing to make a tailwheel just for this plane...I need to send them the measurments so I can get one to see how it will work out...I wouldnt mind usingthem, they are really nice - and light.

Joe

[Dan_nO]

Joe, is that tail wheel assembly lighter than what comes with the Katana ? Sent you a PM

[xtra330]

I'm thinking it will be, once I give them the dimensions they will get one turned out for my viewing - I would go out on a limb and say that it will be - if not the same weight....I saw the prototype, they have a new revised version now and said it to be lighter. I will keep you posted.

Joe

[The_Wreck]

Joe

Thanks for the kind words, we are getting a lot of good feedback on the tailwheel and they are selling good. The production unit will be slightly lighter, the wire when we get your dimensions will be smaller and therefore lighter, and the heaviest part of the whole assembly is the DUBRO tailwheel, and the H9 Pro-lite wheel and the MPI wheel are very light, nearly .6 oz lighter. My guess is that with your measurements and one of those wheels your setup will be around 2.5-2.8 oz.

I hope that we can get it worked out then we would have the standard measurements for the Krill Katana and be able to produce that bend for other Krill owners. I think that plane is going to sell like Crazy.

Thanks again
John
J & J Tailwheels

[buttface]

C

[McFueler]

	Quote: Originally Posted by The_Wreck
	Joe Thanks for the kind words, we are getting a lot of good feedback on the tailwheel and they are selling good. The production unit will be slightly lighter, the wire when we get your dimensions will be smaller and therefore lighter, and the heaviest part of the whole assembly is the DUBRO tailwheel, and the H9 Pro-lite wheel and the MPI wheel are very light, nearly .6 oz lighter. My guess is that with your measurements and one of those wheels your setup will be around 2.5-2.8 oz. I hope that we can get it worked out then we would have the standard measurements for the Krill Katana and be able to produce that bend for other Krill owners. I think that plane is going to sell like Crazy. Thanks again John J & J Tailwheels

I will be getting one of these for my new plane as soon as I get started building it . The proto-type looked very nice and I liked it . Nice work !

[Comp Arf Kid]

	Quote: Originally Posted by xtra330
	Nope, strictly preference. I had one Katana from John Glezellis with the servos on the outside...I asked the same question...his response was, 'so I can visually check and make sure the servos are secure instead of having to pull the servo hatches off.' With that being said, I say go with what you prefer. I see nothing wrong with either install. Joe

Thanks for the help! Hope to see some more picures on the build

[xtra330]

OK guys - finally got a chance to play around with the build. The last two weeks, I really didnt get a chance to work on the plane - yesterday - I was ble to work a solid 5 or 6 hours on the plane...didnt even touch it today - Thanks to my friend John Schroder and Wayne Matthews - we worked diligently on another project - the Clover Creek Invitational - but thats covered under a diffrent forum.

So, what did I get done. Lets start with the rudder tray. ichose to use the SWB Rudder tray, 3 servos hard connected to eachother - why? I have had nothing but good luck with these trays - and if it aints broke - why change? In the tray we decided to use 2ea 8611a and 1ea 8711. The reason for this, is that we did not want to run too many 8711 servos and run the batteries down anymore than necassary. With 4ea 8711 on the wings, and 4ea 5955TG on the stabs, and 3 servos on the ruddrer - we figured we best not push it with anymore servos that require a good amount of juice to perform....anyways.....

I used 1/2 sq Basswood for the two main rails that the tray will mount to. Then used balsafor the diagonal stiffners, and then used 3/32 birch for the gussets and vertical stiffner. I set the servo tray at a heigth that allowed about a finger tip to slide under the servos and the fuse skin. Be sure to level the fuse side to side to ensure the Basswood rails are even with the wings....I used 30 minute epoxy and milled fiberglass to glue everything in place...Be sure to cut a hole in the turtle deck former to allow the elevator servo wires to pass through to the powerbox, just big enough for the servo wire connector to be able to pass through.

[xtra330]

The next thing I went ahead and knocked out was installing the Duralite Ignition switch as well as the Powerbox switch - I have three Ernst Chrge Receptacles that will be installed shortly and will take pics of those when I am done. Be sure to use 3/32 ply or birch wood to stiffen up the fuse where the switches will be installed. I used 3/32 birch for this - CA'd in place and then 30 minute epoxy around the edges.

I also installed 'The McFueler' fuel dot - same process as above using 3/32 birch as a doubler on the inside of the fuse. Note - I used an xacto knife to cut the openings for the switches and fuel dot - then cleaned them up with 220 grit sandpaper.

[xtra330]

The next thing I went after was the location of the Duralite Li-Manganese and Li-ion batteries. Location of these batteries should be placed as far forward as possible...three airplanes and all set up the same way equates to added weight to gain the CG desired - or the need to relocate them.

Layout the batteries, pencil around them and make marks as to where you are goingto secure the batteries. I have found using 1/2 wide velcro strips from Home Depot do the trick rather nicely...simple and clean. Note, these batteries will be placed on the underside of the structure, so that all you will see is the velcro strips holding the batteries in. The last pic shows the final look when all completed - this is from one of my Katana's.

You will note that I had offset the #2 Li-Manganses battery - this will allow a place for the engine ignition to live - which I currently do not have, but hope to by the end of next week.

[Dan_nO]

Looking good Joe !

Well, I learned something at about 2am this morning when cutting in the slots for the control horns for the elev stab what to watch for on the other stab.....the tube that the hinge runs through

That was a slow process setting and holding those horns untill the glue was set enough that they didnt want to move.

Back to the basement to do the other one now...