In depth build - Krill Katana 39%

[xtra330]

Okay, the next item on the list is the tray that will hold the Powerbox, Matchboxes, and receiver - in the pictures shown a receiver was used just for pic purposes - the one that will be used is the Scan Select (R2000, i think).

Anyways, I had used 1/4" x 5/8" spruce wood for the rails and 3/32 birch for the tray...position so that the it is in line with the Powerbox switch, as well as the aileron servo extensions passing through the fuse (which is roughly 4" from the back of the wing spar). Drill 4ea holes into the fuselage stiffners for 4-40 bolts and blind nuts (to allow easy remove and install). Speckal paint for effect.

[xtra330]

The last thing that I went after was the canister mount. I used 3/32 birch plywood, making this mount so that the upper half is removable...nice touch as its easier to install/remove the canisters from w/in the fuse as opposed than pulling them out the front of the plane.

The bottom part of the mount will be permantley glued to the landing gear former, and the upper half will be held in place with 3ea 4-40 allen head bolts.

The bottom mount will use the neoprene tubing that DA sells with their mounts...and the top will use Large Neoprene Fuel tubing wrapped in a spiral around the bottom. Note, that the top piece will have Carbon Fiber applied to add additional strength.

The last pic is a final install on one of my Katana's.

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dan_nO
	Looking good Joe ! Well, I learned something at about 2am this morning when cutting in the slots for the control horns for the elev stab what to watch for on the other stab.....the tube that the hinge runs through That was a slow process setting and holding those horns untill the glue was set enough that they didnt want to move. Back to the basement to do the other one now...

Danny - that was not supposed to happen...lol... Hopefully nothing major that epoxy cant fix? How did the slots turn out?

If I have to - I use thin strips of masking tape to help hold the horns in position while they dry.

Is your motor box and canister install complete? Post some pics if you got time!


Later,

Joe

[Dan_nO]

Wellllllll Joe, no it wasnt supposed to happen, it just nicked that hinge tube, it didnt go through thank goodness. I used a dremel with a snake attachement to cut the slots, for the way the bottom was flat in the slots, for my horns to go forward far enough for the hole in the horn to be over the hinge line, I had to notch the front bottom corner of the horn just about 1/16th. They are glued in now. This is all a learning experience, will be easier if/when i put another one together. Im looking at your servo tray....I tell ya what, i wont be able to put our tray in the bottom like that, not with the Grieves pipes ! They exit several inches behind the cockpit !

Will post some pics as to my progress.....



















OH, that former that is behind the hole for the exhaust outlet...I cut that out of 1/8th lite ply and put that in, it seemed a little flimsy after cutting the hole, dont know if it would have mattered but its there now. If there is anything you see that you might make suggestions on, please do, if building by the seat of my pants, litteraly LOL. Rassling with that big birtha setting in the wheelchair has tried my patience a couple of times already.

[Dan_nO]

Joe, I know what most have said about this being tail heavy depending on servos used. I am going to proceed through the build leaving the rudder part of things till last....I am going to see with the batts and equipment that we are using, and the smoke pump and stuff, IF with everything more up front, hoping for the posibility to be able to put the servos in the tail, will have to wait and see.

[Dan_nO]

Joe, how much right thrust are you putting on yours ?

[nickb]

Danny,
I'm in the same boat with you on the rudder servos. I'm running BMB full pipes, so to put a rudder tray in it would have to sit very high to clear the pipes. I got a set of carbon stab tubes with mine that are substantially lighter than the stock ones. I'll have to weigh them and let you know the difference. I really want to put the rudder servos in the tail, but I'm going to wait till I can mock up the balance. I'm off to work on the stabs and wings. I really wish they would have cut the slots for us. It makes me nervous. Good luck with your build. Nick

[Dan_nO]

Hey Nick.

Yeaaaaa, even though I have flown for over 20 years, scratch built a lot of different "wood" models, this is a first ever fiberglass/composite for me to work on. You cut a place wrong working with wood, its normally an easy fix, I have no idea about glass work.

Im just taking my time, been asking Joe LOTS of questions, looking at his pics he has posted, I went back and made a folder and saved them all to look at. Just taking my time, laying and drawing things out, measuring 10 times and cutting once haha.

With Joe doing so many of these now he makes it look so simple, some of the things are time consuming, but as we go along and if we put more of these together, they will get easier each time.

Yea, it would be nice if they had a jig or something and cut the slots for the horns at the factory, would make it a lot easier and take out some of the guess work laying it all out..

It takes me a lot longer doing some of this stuff trying to get it into positions to where I can handle and deal with it as I am in a wheelchair, just got to get creative sometimes Im managing though, just have to leave it sometimes and go cool off where I get agrevated.

Im glad Joe is such a good guy and works with us and answers our questions and helps us to learn as we go along.

When you get the specs on the weight of the stab tubes and know how much lighter they are, let me know please. I like you am putting all of this together leaving the rudder for the last thing to do in HOPES that I will be able to put the servos in the tail.

My thought on that is....get it all together, put everything in it that is going to be in it,, figure in the weight of a servo tray and hardware for that plus the 3 servos for the tray, get a weight. Then just figure the weight of two servos for the tail without the weight of the servo tray and hardware and see what the total is.

Then to see how much if it is tail heavy that it would take to balance it. If it is within reason and close to the same weight adding weight to the nose to get it to balance, i will put the servos in the tail as long as the overall weight is going to be close to the same in figuring all of this.

Will wait and see. I am putting a smoke system in this for Brendan, yea its additional weight but, if its going to take weight in the nose to get it to balance then it is usable weight instead of dead weight.

We will keep our fingers crossed and hope it turns out the way we want

Using 8711 servos, I have had to cut a bit the servo openings in the stabs, they wouldnt even start to go in them.

[nickb]

I'm stupid, I'm stupid, I'm stupid!!!! I was working on my elevators- got the servo in. Time to cut out the slot for the arm--ON THE WRONG SIDE!! I think it can probably be fixed, but I don't think it will be 100% right. Does anyone know how much a new stab 1/2 costs? Let the beatings begin!

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dan_nO
	Joe, I know what most have said about this being tail heavy depending on servos used. I am going to proceed through the build leaving the rudder part of things till last....I am going to see with the batts and equipment that we are using, and the smoke pump and stuff, IF with everything more up front, hoping for the posibility to be able to put the servos in the tail, will have to wait and see.

Hi Danny,

Remember that there are two hardpoints in the rudder - one at the bottom of the rudder and another 8" above that one - so you can still run a rudder tray under the cockpit - 2 servos inthe stab and 2 on the rudder in the aft part of the fuse - you will be fine - but six total????

I think you would be best off like you said and wait till dead last to figure placement of your servos.

The build looks great so far! keep it up.

Joe

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Dan_nO
	Joe, how much right thrust are you putting on yours ?

Regardless of how much is in the firewall as it comes from the factory - I put a 3deg SWB motor mount on the firewall - lined up with the front of cowl.....works great!

[xtra330]

Using 8711 servos, I have had to cut a bit the servo openings in the stabs, they wouldnt even start to go in them.

Hey Danny - I have found this to be true on every kit I have had. I think they do this to be sure the opening is made just big enough for the owners choice of servos - I had to do the same on the 5955TG - no biggy.

Joe

[xtra330]

	Quote: Originally Posted by nickb
	I'm stupid, I'm stupid, I'm stupid!!!! I was working on my elevators- got the servo in. Time to cut out the slot for the arm--ON THE WRONG SIDE!! I think it can probably be fixed, but I don't think it will be 100% right. Does anyone know how much a new stab 1/2 costs? Let the beatings begin!

- dude, that is just awful!!

I have no idea how much one stab will cost - I guess call Philip and get a quote - you might want to hurry as he has a shipment coming over in the next week or so...he may be able to get it shipped over on that container.

Joe

[xtra330]

I had got a chance to play around a little bit today on the plane. It sure is hard when you have two kids that just want your attention 100% of the time

I had installed the 3ea Ernst Charge Receptacles - this will allow me to charge all three batteries as well as check the power supply with the hatch installed on the plane. One the main reasons why I chose the spot I did on the plane is becasue there is some carbon fiber re-enforcemnet around that area - between pushing and pulling on the charge leads - this area allows me to leave it as is - no added re-enforcement needed.

[xtra330]

The next thing I hit was the fuel tank tray. I will be using the 51oz Round tank sold by Aircraft Int'l. Placed on centerline of the fuse, directly over the wing spar.

I used 1/8" x 1/2" spruce sticks with 3/32 birch, and balsa triangle stock. Simply cut the sticks to rough length - you will notice that the wing formers on the fuse are set at 90 deg the fuse side - so when you run the spruce sticks side to side - you will have to sand the ends to where they will contour to the angle of the formers - see pic for much more detail.

Once that is determined - be sure to keep it at a height that will not interfere with the wing spars passing through the fuse. Clamp the front one in place - be sure to level the fuse side to side and place a level on this spruce stick to verify the same.

Now place the back stick in place and put your ply plate on top - make sure it lies flat on both sticks - clamp the back stick in position and mark center where the plate will live - then glue the plate to the sticks.

Glue on the triangle supports - cut lightening holes if desired - drill small 1/16 pilot hole at each end of the sticks - clamp assy back in place - take a thumb tack and push all the way through holes you just drilled into the wing/fuse former - now take the drill and push back through the other side verifying alignment is correct at all locations - remove and step the holes up in the tray assy and install 4-40 blind nuts - step the holes up in the wing/fuse formers to allow a 4-40 bolt to pass through - speckle paint when done. (mine is drying as we speak, but will post pic of finished product)