I've heard so much about the DA 50, it let me down!!!

[Tank's Dad]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Vic3D
	Aluminum bolts are not good. I've seen plenty of DA's blowing their cylinders out because of this. I don't know why they need to save 2-3 ounces going with alum bolts instead of steel.

Combination of aluminum and steel also causes a corrosive reaction. Most times can be overcome by anti-sieze.

[robertp17]

I just recently replaced the rear crankcase half on my DA 50 due to a broken mounting ear and DA recommends replacing the cylinder bolts anytime they have been removed after being torqued. Guessing they stretch when you torque them. I thought about putting steel but just replaced with aluminum. My engine is only a year old and it has been to DA for repairs in the past but they said the mounting ear was not under warrenty and I didnt want to be without my engine for 3 or 4 weeks so I just ordered the parts and did the job myself. Can anyone here with a DA 50 tell me if they can get the high end rich enough to " burble " ? Since new I have never really been able to get my high end rich. It hits a certain point and then no matter how far you turn the screw out it does net get any richer. I have lost two high end needles because of them being out so far and just to see if it would get rich doing this I even took the high end needle out alltogether and plugged it off with a screw and it runsa just as good as having the needle in it !?! Please someone shed some light here. I have checked for air leaks none found, took carb apart and cleaned the fuel inlet screen and blew some carb cleaner thru the holes and where the needles go but its still the same. I heard somewhere that with the WT201 walbro that is on this engine you can never get them really rich. The trouble with mine is im borderline lean and cant get it rich. I have ordered a carb that is supposed to be a better carb for it but not sure of the model number til I get it. In case anyone wants to know I am running 87 octane petroleum based oil, vess 23a and its taching 7100 even after an 15 minute flight but I can tell its lean because you can get a sizzle if you touch the cylinder after licking your finger and my cylinder is turning a pink color. I have been all thru the motor and all the gaskets and still no better. I just want to make sure im not covering up a problem by putting the new carb on.

[robertp17]

No help here guys? Come on

[JimC-MD]

	Quote: Originally Posted by robertp17
	No help here guys? Come on

Why don't you try asking these questions in the DA support forum?

Mine would burble on the high end until I got is set correctly.

[rcign]

A carb designed for a chainsaw is calibrated for that engine only..The 201 comes from an Echo CVS 4000 chainsaw....We went all through this on the other forum a few years ago...A WT76A carb used on a Sachs 3.2 chainsaw has the same size venturi and passes more fuel through the high speed needle and works better..When you use a large prop on a 50cc engine the carb needs to pass more fuel than with a small one....One of the users picked up 200 rpm with the WT76A...Why DA still uses the 201 is known only to them, must be a good reason......The WT76 is slightly cheaper...
The 201 can be altered by VERY carefully drilling out the small hole at the end of the high speed needle...VERY small steps at a time until it works....
A WT76A is $15 from ecdwards.com...They had 18 in stock.....

[robertp17]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	A carb designed for a chainsaw is calibrated for that engine only..The 201 comes from an Echo CVS 4000 chainsaw....We went all through this on the other forum a few years ago...A WT76A carb used on a Sachs 3.2 chainsaw has the same size venturi and passes more fuel through the high speed needle and works better..When you use a large prop on a 50cc engine the carb needs to pass more fuel than with a small one....One of the users picked up 200 rpm with the WT76A...Why DA still uses the 201 is known only to them, must be a good reason......The WT76 is slightly cheaper... The 201 can be altered by VERY carefully drilling out the small hole at the end of the high speed needle...VERY small steps at a time until it works.... A WT76A is $15 from ecdwards.com...They had 18 in stock.....

This is great info and its funny how you said the bigger props will make it need to pass more fuel because I never had this problem when I ran a 22x8 until I put it in my aeroworks 260 with a 23x8 and then a vess 23b. You May be on to something so I will see how it runs with the new carb.

[rcign]

Yup, more load, more fuel.....If you were at a higher altitude it might work without mods, I have to run leaner here at 7000 feet.....

[maddmann]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	A carb designed for a chainsaw is calibrated for that engine only..The 201 comes from an Echo CVS 4000 chainsaw....We went all through this on the other forum a few years ago...A WT76A carb used on a Sachs 3.2 chainsaw has the same size venturi and passes more fuel through the high speed needle and works better..When you use a large prop on a 50cc engine the carb needs to pass more fuel than with a small one....One of the users picked up 200 rpm with the WT76A...Why DA still uses the 201 is known only to them, must be a good reason......The WT76 is slightly cheaper... The 201 can be altered by VERY carefully drilling out the small hole at the end of the high speed needle...VERY small steps at a time until it works.... A WT76A is $15 from ecdwards.com...They had 18 in stock.....

I wanted to check the link for the carb. I can't seem to find any reference to ecdwards.com... Is this the site? I figure if the price is right, might be nice to have a spare carb.

[Steve]

Another thing to try is reducing the pop-off presure of the stock carb. I did this with mine and it richens up fine. I set my pop-off at 13psi. DA just uses stock springs and they are set anywhere from 30 to 40 psi.

[wildhare]

	Quote: Originally Posted by rcign
	A WT76A is $15 from ecdwards.com...They had 18 in stock.....

Seems to be a typo here, ecdwards.com goes nowhere. Do you have a correct URL?

TF

[robertp17]

Yes I tried as well and not working. I tried ecedwards still wont work.

[porcupineace]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tank's Dad
	Combination of aluminum and steel also causes a corrosive reaction. Most times can be overcome by anti-sieze.

i agreedont mix metals....the less noble of the two will corrode.

[SENEKAfive]

i have a dl-50 and it has been pretty good its only $390 so think about next time your in the market for a 50cc

[maddmann]

Try Fleabay for ecedwards_tools . I got a WT-76A from him for about $15. This is the only place I could find anything close to ecedwards. I think it's the same dude as rcign is referring to.

[Tired Old Man]

Get rid of the aluminum screws and use stainless. They hold better and the heat expansion rate is closer to the aluminum than alloy. Torque everything to 35-40 in.oz. and you'll be good to go.