CARDEN HANGAR 9 BUILD

[kruzin55]

I used the push-pull and still had to move my two 6.0vdc six cell NiMh forward of the wing tube to balance. I suspect that with the rudder servo in the tail, you will have to add weight to the nose.

[John Raymond]

Thanks for info I'll ago with PP

[vlysakowski]

Looks nice!

[Heat186]

John, I too have the DLE 55 on mine. Initially I installed the rudder servo in the tail but when I checked the CG it was very tail heavy and I would have had to add alot of weight even with all my batteries mounted as far front as possible.
I changed the rudder servo to pull-pull and after I checked my CG and it came out perfect without having to add any weight fore or aft.
Hope this helps.

Cal.

[John Raymond]

Well the PP was simple enough but now I will have to run the elevator extensions to not get in the way of the cables. even though I am a kit builder normally the manual does not show installing the cowl very well. I even had a chance to beef it up a little with some bracing and I covered the engine box to keep wind out of fuselage. Maybe Monday she'll maiden

[John Raymond]

Quick questions

1. Do I need a 1" hole in firewall behind DLE55? I reinforced with another 3/8 plywood but didn't drill.


2. What would the engine baffle do? and why should I install one?

3. Does anyone use the JR Ferrite Filter between engine and throttle servo? I used sullivan plastic pushrod.

Thanks in advance John

[istandalon]

1) i think this is where you'd want to route your throttle linkage and fuel lines etc. you likely could route them around the stand offs, but it's more direct through the firewall hole. then again, i assume you know this so i'm not sure what exactly you mean.

2) the engine baffle directs uber airflow over the cyl head to promote cool running. with these yaks, the cowl is huge. the standard is to have 3 times the amount of air exit the fuse as to what's going into it. with that huge honking cowl, that's impossible.
so no, it's not "required" but it's easy and if you do it right, it looks nice.

3) no i don't use it. i'm on futaba 2.4g, so no need afaik.

[John Raymond]

	Quote: Originally Posted by istandalon
	1) i think this is where you'd want to route your throttle linkage and fuel lines etc. you likely could route them around the stand offs, but it's more direct through the firewall hole. then again, i assume you know this so i'm not sure what exactly you mean. 2) the engine baffle directs uber airflow over the cyl head to promote cool running. with these yaks, the cowl is huge. the standard is to have 3 times the amount of air exit the fuse as to what's going into it. with that huge honking cowl, that's impossible. so no, it's not "required" but it's easy and if you do it right, it looks nice. 3) no i don't use it. i'm on futaba 2.4g, so no need afaik.

Thanks a lot John

[buildingjets]

Wow ! I have been out of the loop for a while . Any who , for any of you that loves the 3D charictaristics of the H-9 Carden Yak-54 , But would like some thing no one else has check this out . I have decided to sell my Carden Cuda with a D.A.-50 on it ( due to going bigger IMAC style ) . It 3D's like crazy , yet like all true Cardens has dependible slow flight charitaristics . This airframe only has 6 flights on it and has been in my garage ever seince . The D.A.-50 was on a H-9 YAK-54 and has just been broke in with Lawn Boy 32/1 and is now on Amziol 100/1 ( atotal of 5 gallons on it ) . This airfarme and motor will last some one a long time as it is as solid as they come , and only weighs 15 LBS R.T.F. ! Feel free to PM me if you have any questions .
John Tripp
buildingjets@yahoo.com
334-294-6328

[meloni.racing]

Hello,

What is the distance between the centerline of the engine and the centerline of the canister? I need this because I have to make a custom headers for my Mintor 55 and at the factory they need this distance.
Uh, forgot to say I can't get this by myself because I'm not at home right now...
Have fun!

[dpilcher]

Well just joined the ranks this weekend with a hardened Clunk line. Thankfully I had just finished a vertical climb into an inverted run so altitude was up there when she dead sticked and came to a restful slumber on the field in perfect fashion. Time to tear the tank apart and see if I can get back together without the issues some others mentioned about getting the cap back on the tank successfully. We shall see but she is one piece and will fly again soon.

[istandalon]

do yourself a favor and just upgrade to the dubro 22 oz tank and gasoline stopper. with the stock H9 crap, nothing is compatible.
i'm still trying to figure out why H9 would do that.....

[extrabob]

I agree with Istandalon I insalled a Dubro 22 oz rectangular tank with gas stopper and have not had any problems since, with a DA 50 i set my transmitter for 13 minutes land check fuel leftover and it is always at half, plenty of safty factor, hmmm mabee ill increase timer to 15 min

Man this plane is a blast to fly !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob.........

[istandalon]

	Quote: Originally Posted by extrabob
	I agree with Istandalon I insalled a Dubro 22 oz rectangular tank with gas stopper and have not had any problems since, with a DA 50 i set my transmitter for 13 minutes land check fuel leftover and it is always at half, plenty of safty factor, hmmm mabee ill increase timer to 15 min Man this plane is a blast to fly !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bob.........

i agree! this yak is worth every penny!!

[dpilcher]

	Quote: Originally Posted by istandalon
	i agree! this yak is worth every penny!!

Well I tore it apart and replaced fuel line with some worth a "Da$%" and it went back together nicely with no leaks. Time to put it back in the air with some inverted "Ness" and see what happens!
I Love My YAK!!

Thanks Guys. I have a Dubro 22 OZ coming just in case it developes a leak.....