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#16 |
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Drakien is my hero
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 1,475
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I use pacer hinge glue and have never had one pull out. VERY easy and neat to work with.
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The sweet taste of a cheap price, soon fades in the bitter reality of missed expectations. Go the extra mile. It is never crowded out there. http://www.stansphotos.com/ |
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#17 |
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Smoke on!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oak Ridge, NC
Posts: 4,213
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Gorilla glue is great for hinges. As I'm sure its already been said, tape your surfaces in place while the glue expands so they don't get pushed out.
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#18 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Bklyn, NY
Age: 66
Posts: 553
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GORILLA GLUE IS FOR FOAMIES AND GUYS WHO DONT MIND STANDING AROUND FOR AN HOUR WITH A WET PAPER TOWEL TO SEE WHERE THE DAMNED STUFF SEEPS OUT WHERE IT IS NOT WANTED.
![]() AGAIN......IMHO (HYSOL ALL THE WAY) IRA |
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#19 |
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Custom Aircraft Graphics
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rolla, MO
Posts: 544
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We are now offering 3M Epoxy at great prices. Works great for hinging, Cowl Rings, Fillets and Formers and the strength is 1000 PSI more than the Closest competitor. Visit here for more info: http://www.aerographix.biz/3m_epoxy.htm
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Aero Graphix LLC Your Professional Graphics and Accessories store! www.aerographix.biz Aero Graphix LLC Exclusive OverSeas Dealer is: www.covermewingbags.com |
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#20 |
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TEAM 3DHS
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bossier City, LA
Age: 36
Posts: 4,860
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I just re-hinged an elevator half two weeks ago. I used pro bond the first time because I have seen the penetration this stuff gets. It is great, however the holes were a little wallowed out and the pro bond did not hold. If it was a new, unhinged hole, I would use it agan, but I opted to try the gorilla glue to put them back in the same hole. I dipped a q-tip in some water and quickly swabbed the holes in the stab and elevator to moisten them(not soaked). I then applied some light oil to the hinge point and applied a light amount of gorilla glue to both ends of the hinge and used an acid brush to evenly coat the hinge. I then pushed the hinge into the stab, pushed the hinges over about 45 degrees so I could stab the elevator without pushing the hinges in too far into the stab, pushed the elevator on and walked away. I returned three hours later, trimmed the very small amount of excess that had foamed out with an xacto and immediately grabbed the elevator and gave it a pull that was more than necessary. This thing was locked in!!! I tried to pull a little harder but was afraid that the stab or elevator was going to come apart if I kept up. I'm sold on hinging/ re-hinging with gorilla glue. This stuff rocks!
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#21 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Crestview, FL
Age: 38
Posts: 615
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I've used it on all of my hinges. After a while epoxy tends to crack and loosen up. Use the Gorilla glue. Take a look at this artical, it might help you out. http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=269
Later Shawn |
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#22 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,189
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Polyurathane glue, (gorila, probond, etc..) is great, since I started with this glue never looked back on hinges
here is a pic of the ailerons/wing with the tape to hold in place I first heat up some vasoline, then wet the center of the hinge point. let it coagulate. then put the glue in the hinge holes, all of them, if its dry out, then wet the hinges put them in, move the control surface, to line them up , then tape as you see in the photo, very easy and the best in my opinion Roger
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Sbach 342http://www.rcxmachines-na.com Turbine spark ignitions Fiber Optic servo extensions Engines Standoffs |
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#23 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Black Dirt Squadron, NY
Posts: 289
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There is a new fast cure version of Gorilla glue that is clear and turns white when dry. 80% cure in 1 hour.
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#24 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Age: 26
Posts: 427
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I'll try to explain my method of using Gorilla Glue that can be used on Kits as well as ARFs.
Things you'll need: Gorilla Glue - New FAST CURE WHITE <----works great Blue Painter's tape or similar tape Plastic or Saran Wrap Q-tips Toothpicks Water Vaseline/Oil Razor Blade Your Airframe of course Step 1: Cover your parts before starting as Gorilla Glue on your fingers will leave permanent finger prints on the covering. There is NO WAY TO REMOVE after it dries other than sanding and time. 1. Start out by drilling your hinge points for Robart Hinges. 2. Use a Dremel tool with a cone shaped sanding bit to open the top of the hole (for the knuckle). 3. Use blue painters tape to cover the hole using a small strip. (Later removed) 4. Cut out the hole through the blue tape. 5. Use Vaseline or oil to lubricate each knuckle. 5. Using a Q-tip dampen the inside of each hole. 6. When ready to glue the hinges make sure everything is ready. (Check List) 7. Start by applying Glue in each hole on both the surface and the stab/wing using a toothpick to swirl the glue all around in the hole. 8. Put a little glue on ONE SIDE of the hinge and insert all the hinges into ONE SIDE. 9. Then put some glue on the other side of the Robart hinges and insert the surface or stab/wing. 10. Work the surface thoroughly and make sure each knuckle is centered. If not, do so now! Re-work the surface. 11. Once satisfied use the same painter's tape to hold the surface together while the glue expands. 12. Once dry, remove the tape from the surfaces. I like to make little pull tabs with the blue tape that way when you are ready to remove the tape beside the hinge you just deflect the surface then use a razor blade to cut it gently at the hinge line. DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE COVERING! The other side generally will pull through easily. Hope this helps people's fears when dealing with Gorilla Glue or other polyurethane glues. - Parker Gilbert |
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