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#16 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Texas, United States of North Mexico
Posts: 270
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On mine, I am using a 3" MPI arm with crossed pull-pull wires with no problems. The Rudder servo is mounted little farther back than the stock mount location.
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Hey Obama... Tax this |
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#17 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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Can you take a picture for me?
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www.kingkonghobbies.com |
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#18 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Texas, United States of North Mexico
Posts: 270
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Here' a few photos. Hope they help.
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Hey Obama... Tax this |
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#19 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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I think I will mount my tray in the back like that too. That seems to stop it from cutting into the formers...
Made some progress tonight but I have a few questions.. First I made the firewall and went to double check my measurements... turns out I ended up 5/8ths of an inch past the end of the cowl with the prop. Should I leave it that way(might look like ****?) or should I bring it back to 1/4" past the cowl. I understand that this plane will probably need the nose weight... but I'm not sure. I have to send my DA-50 off to DA for updates(I bought a new in the box one that is 2 or 3 years old from my dad) so I want to finish up cutting the firewall and mounting it tomorrow night so I can get the throttle servo in and send the motor off. I also ended up buying a slimline pitts muffler from him too. Since it has a smoke fitting on it, I might as well add smoke to this baby too lol. I ordered a CF spinner and mejzlik 23x8 prop today too. DA was out of 22x8's so I will have to find one for break-in somewhere. Other than that, work is progressing. I found a tube for servo leads to the tail, and will mount that tomorrow night also. Hopefully I can have all of the fuse install done by the end of this weekend so I can cover it next week. I have a few idea's for a scheme that will use the colors on the cowl and can't wait to try them...
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#20 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Texas, United States of North Mexico
Posts: 270
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5/8" extension of the prop in front of the cowl is good. Mine ended up at 3/4" and it looks good. From what I have read, you should have 1/2" to 1" gap between a radial cowl and prop for a 50cc so the cowl does not interfere with the prop aerodynamics.
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Hey Obama... Tax this |
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#21 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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That is what I thought. Thanks.
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#22 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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Well finally started working on this one again. Got a lot of sanding done, firewall is ready to go, and finished one of the mcfuelers. I added a plywood ring to the back of the mcfueler to help keep the screws straight so they are nice and flush on the face of it.
Will get more work done later this week.
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#23 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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Got a lot of work done on this one last night. Gutted the canopy, dropped at least 3-4 oz's out of it. Turned out really nice and still plenty strong. These yaks are built like brick crap houses....
I also start to gut the fuselage. I had some carbon fiber tube laying around so I will use that to reinforce area's that still need it after gutting it. I have cut quite a bit out already and it is amazingly strong. These things really are overbuilt. I I have gone much further on this than I had originally planned, but I have all winter to work on it, and I thought if I could get it in the 16 lb range with smoke I would be really happy. I will post pics later today, if you have any advice on lightening I would appreciate it!
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#24 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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I also made some mods to the Kodiak switches to make them much much easier to mount. Getting the locknuts on the back was pissing me off so I glued some plywood in and threaded the plywood. Works really well and makes taking them off and putting them on much much easier. I will run home at lunchtime and take some pics.
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#25 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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And some pics...
I was going to reinforce the canopy with carbon after I cut everything out, but the outline(the part that is left) is balsa glued to ply, so it is still extremely strong. I could probably gut even more out, but I think I got enough. And tips on lightening the fuse would be welcome!
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#26 |
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How much did that thing cost?
![]() Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 952
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You can seee in the last couple of picture I put a plywood piece in for the kodiak mounting plate itself, and then just threaded them. This replaces the locknuts that come with the switch. I had to do something because the locknuts were nearly impossible to get on in that tight of a fit and were a complete pain. Using the thread plywood, I can now take the entire switch off and put it back on again very quickly.
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#27 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Claremont NC USA
Age: 51
Posts: 2,718
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I see you have the McFueler on there, SSSWWWWEEEETTTTT !!!!
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Was the IMAC Southeast Regional Director 09-10 |
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#28 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Clinton, Ohio
Posts: 364
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How is the build going? Any updates?
I just started building this one in team scheme. I am happy with my covering. I had the 85" Yak just like the one Nitro Models sells. These two kits are very very similar. |
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