CA Models Osmose Delux ARC

[Jim Woodward]

Don - Get your equipment together! I need about 3-4 nights to do what I'm going to do your ARF. This looks great already, so it will just need a bit of measuring and adjustment, motor install, etc. No biggy!
Jim

[Radioactive]

yes sir... ready she goes!! Nothing like flying a ballastic powered precision machince!!! And after the beast is Woody-ized flight trimed.. it will be unbeatable!!

[Mike Hester]

Slick job Jimbo!

I think you're going to like that plane a lot. As picky as you are (a GOOD thing) you won't have any weight issues. I agree the quality of CA seems to have increased a lot in the last year or so. Right now in this current state I would pick this airframe for a composite glow plane first. If it was electric, I'd go for the passport. The passport is an awesome flying plane. It is constructed pretty light and although you CAN use a YS, you need to pay close attention to things. It's better suited for electric overall. Still a fantastic plane, very impressive in person.

Apparently the T canalizer is pretty necessary for this airframe. Marcio's blew off in the woods at Ga Jets right before the nats. (be careful with the mounting, vibration can kill it). The mix changed...it was very windy and typically bumpy there, but the coupling changed obviously. It's a freaky thing how those work, but they do work. As we both have discovered, they work better on some planes than others.

So I take it you're re-energized and will be joining us for some fun soon?

get er done!

-Mike

[Jim Woodward]

Thanks Mike,

From what I gather, the T-canalizer truns this from an ordinary, to an
extraordinary airplane. The mix values range from near zero, to a whole bunch if you take the T off. I plan to use the T, and also increase the gluing surface area of the T interior-sidewall to the mounting rib. On the inside of the fuselage adjacent to the T I'll put some 1/4 ribs to add strength to that area of the turtle deck.

I'll be hitting contests as I can. This year has turned into a building year all around for me. I sold off my other planes, and rebuilding the pattern stable , mostly flying once a week for now. I'll look to pick up the pace as I get this in the air in the next 1.5-2 weeks (hopefully).

As of last night, the fuselage initial seam work is done and I'll look to shoot primer tonight or tomorrow, then probably one more night to fix little stuff, then its on to white.
Thanks,
Jim

[BreadBowl]

Jim,

I'm not sure if you're aware that Christophe moved his canalizer further aft to mount onto the fuse as opposed to the canopy. From what I understand he did this merely to have a more solid surface to mount the canalizer to. I'm not sure if there were any aerodynamic repercussions to this, I seem to remember George Hicks saying that as a general rule of thumb that they need to be placed 3 fin widths ahead of the fin.

I know that you were dispelling some rumors on the canalizer thread on RCU a while back since you're an aero engineer, but just throwing that out there.

Airplane looks good! Take care, I can't wait to see it painted and all put together.

[Jim Woodward]

Hi Ryan,

I did see some photos, and had someon confirm that the favored position now is about 20 mm back from canopy/fuselage junction.

For certain just a central fin like seen in this photo added some positive pitching moment. Later I moved the CG a tad forward and was able to trim the top of the fin off a bit. After I started flying F09 and liking the plane, I took the fin off to see if it was really needed. The plane flew everything just right except roll/loop stuff. I put the fin back on, and the plane returned to "carving" through the rolling loop stuff. On the Abbra, I never mounted a horizontal surface on top of the fin.

Thanks,
Jim

[Mike Hester]

hey Jim, re- the top fin thingy....

It definitely adds positive pitching, and is just the ticket if you have a plane that trims out killer except for a pitch to the gear. But it all depends on the shape of the fuse and the airflow. IMHO this is probably the one still expiremental aspect of these planes. But they get better and better don't they? This is good stuff.

I had a long dicsussion with Marcio about mountig that thing and probably the most secure way is the way it was done on this VF3 prototype you had. That gives it stability at 2 points instead of one. I think it's what you're describing, but it stabilizes the whipping vibration of that thing.

Anyway not trying to hijack a killer thread, you go boy.

-M

[Jim Woodward]

No prob Mike. The fin needs to be mounted with an eye towards "long-term" usage and sustainment of vibration for sure. Perhaps when my YS 170 CDI gets here that will help too

Here are some pics. Not too many. As of today, the wheel pants have a coat of flawless white. The canopy and chin came out pretty good too and will need a bit of touch up. The white pics didn't turn out well though, so here are some of the before shots.

Saturday I put up the paint booth and sprayed primer, sanded, ran errands, and by Saturday night hit the small parts in white. Out of all the seam-work, about 3 pin holes showed themselves. I'll hit those with glazing putty prior to sparying the colors.
Thanks,
Jim

[Radioactive]

looking Sweet Jimbo, man it's going to be a very season again... new imac birds, and pattern ships... loving the "Perfection" brother!!!

[Jim Woodward]

Guys - here are pics of the paint and fuselage prep. Fuselage is prepped and tonight I'll clean it well, clean the shop a bit, and paint white.

At this point, I'm not an "artist" with the paint. I would say that I am still learning out to do an efficient paint job that looks great, but the whole process still feels cumbersome. For me, the most important part is not to get any runs or cause "rework" or sanding on a painted part. I would like to STOP learning lessons on paint, but that is not going to happen yet.

I used a paint called a "high-solids" paint given to me by some aviation refurb friends. I mixed it initially as directed, and it was a little too thick (canopy picture), but still OK. Seeing this, I mixed in 1 spoon of acetone to thin the paint, directly into the paint cup. This changed the viscosity, and I managed to adjust the gun correctly to account for this, and the wheel pants and chin cowl came out spot on!!! The paint looks jet-white for sure.

I wish the real paint experts could start a thread called: "Lessons I've learned about painting - what not to do"
Thanks,
Jim

[Jim Woodward]

Hi Guys,

Just one picture today. Tonight I'll hit it with some sand paper to shed off a bit of overspray, then do a final coat. Also, about 5 bugs sat their ass in this coat and it is very disssapointing, will require sanding in those ass-prints too.

Any ideas? If I put a bug-zapper in the tent, will it explode the pait fumes? Should I prespray the tent with bug spray? The work is being done at night, so there is a light on in the tent. Should I just wait to do this the next day with sunlight?

Any ideas are welcome.
thanks,
Jim

[Radioactive]

Cool beans.... Damm dude,,,, you might have to call Dean,. and Mike.... you need expert advice here!!!!!!!!!

[Mike Hester]

I HATE BUGS!!!!!!!! You know, one of the best paint jobs I ever did, I sprayed clear coat (and dude I mean it looked like soaking wet glass..) I'm sitting there admiring it, and damned if a stoopid ass night beetle didn't buzz his retarded ass into that paint....then buzz around trying to get loose...then me there trying to get him out/off, inventing new cuss words by the second.

usually there is a time of day when bugs aren't an issue, but night time is the worst. Especially seeing how they are attracted to light, and you need light to paint. I've done it before, but the trick is skeet it fast and get it inside, FAST. And debug the area.

Or...

let it be, wet sand it with 2000, touch up any fragged areas with an airbrush (inside), and buff and polish it out.

The other option is to build a paint booth out of PVC and drape plastic (although your neighbors will hate you). The good news is it can be dismantled and only used for painting.

I've also heard about some kind of bug away thingy that you supposedly plug in and it does the trick, but somehow I have a feeling those nuclear Miami bugs wouldn't care too much.

Now serious question....are you doing this one shot, or are you clearing it at the end? If you're clearing it, the best thing to do is wet sand and touch up the colors as you go, then rent a paint booth for the clear. If you look around I bet there is a a paint store near you that will rent thier booth. There is one down the street for me.

At the end of the day best option is probably to just paint during a time where there's not as many critters around...and pray LOL

-Mike

[Jim Woodward]

I'm shooting this with single-stage paint at the moment. I plan to clear the canopy though due to my chroma-base metalic silver.

The Finish Master guys recommended some camping mosquito repllent like citrenella. Also, having a bug-zapper around doesn't hurt either. Other than that, seal off the item from bugs some other way like getting it indoors if you can.

Also - moving onto the complete paint job, and I'll go back and touch up where needed later. First though, mask the scheme to determine which of the bug prints are going to be covered up by another color.
thanks,
Jim

[MattyMatt]

I have found that shooting in the early morning is better than the evening.... not so many bugs and usually no wind to kick dust up.