Wild Hare 35% Edge

[Tired Old Man]

I'm sure there is a 35% Edge thread somewhere in this forum but I was too lazy to go back more than a few pages looking. In any case, I've been sitting on this kit since about April and sort of figured it was time to get started on it. It's one of the 4 prototypes that were parceled out for pre production inspections and possible changes so the colors will likely not be what arrives with the production planes. Work kept me from getting on this sooner but assembly and first flights will follow as time permits and this thread grows. The usual top notch quality and parts fit is evident from the moment you open the box. Carbon fiber wing tubes front and rear will be supporting the wings.

A couple of basic question answers: Length, 93" tip of rudder to face of cowl. W/S: 102.5".

My plans are to use a 100cc twin since I have several not in use at the moment, although an 85cc single would be more than enough for it. That's been proven already. Anybody need a new 3w-106 with the Cactus/Salas performance upgrades? It's one of too many 100's I have laying around.

So I ordered one of Tom's hardware kits since him and I usually use pretty much the same components, along with five of the new Hitec 79 series servos to drive everything. The hardware kit contains the fuel tank, fuel line,fuel dot, carbon or 'glass tube to make up your own linkages, tires and axels, clevises, pull/pull components, and so forth. While I was at it I figured it was time to try out the A123 batteries so I also ordered one of Tom's 123 starter kits. Picked up a real sexy tailwheel from J&J and if it works out as good as I believe it will I'm going to try and talk Tom into carrying them. Slick stuff, but not cheap.

Pictures below with a 100cc twin in front of the cowl to prove this isn't another of the 28% planes. The pictured engine is likely not what will be used on this plane since Tom has some new twins arriving soon.

[Greyhoundman]

I have had my 35% edge almost as long as you, but have not worked on it much until recently, its almost done hope to maiden it in a couple weeks.....work schedule permitting of course. I still need to get some aerographix bling for it also. I have a DA 100 in mine with 8711's on ailerons and rudder and 5955's on the elevators. just need to finish up the batts, switches, and CG it.

[Tired Old Man]

Did you add the top color on the wings? Looks good! My prototype came with all white uppers so I have to come up with colors and a top design.

She looks pretty straight forward for the assembly with tons of room for whatever I may want to do inside. Very similar to the interior of the 41% Giles. My parts fit is so far excellent, how has your been? I'm a little sheepish about not getting this one together until now.

[Greyhoundman]

Yep I added the color on the wings and changed the stabs, it was a real pain to put the color ultracoat on the white and make it look good. If I had it to do over I would strip the top and start from scratch. The parts have fit very well together, the only thing that has not is my own fault. I got a bit carried away with the glue on the elevator hinges and overflowed in to the end of the tube socket. almost have it all sanded back out....fits but a little tight still. One thing that has really sped up the assembly is having the hard points already pilot drilled, made things very easy. I also opted for one of the J&J tailwheels as you did.

[Tired Old Man]

Well, good fortune will smile upon all since the production planes wil come in living color. One of the schemes I wish I had. Sort of an "Austin Powers" type British theme. Just awesome!

The J&J tailwheel is a perfect fit for this plane! Took about 20 minutes to align, drill, and attach it to the plane. Seems to have about the right amount of "spring" to it as well.

The ring on the cowl says a 4-1/2" spinner will be the one.

[T. Bob]

Another ugly WildHare.

Good Luck

[Tired Old Man]

Had a few of them now. Still do, except for the couple I crashed, and they've all been great aircraft.

[MadMonkey]

	Quote: Originally Posted by T. Bob
	Another ugly WildHare. Good Luck

Well aren't you just a ray of sunshine...

[wildhare]

	Quote: Originally Posted by T. Bob
	Another ugly WildHare. Good Luck

I used to take exception to T.Bob, now if he doesn't make an insult I'm disappointed.

TF

[RustyTumbles]

	Quote: Originally Posted by T. Bob
	Another ugly WildHare. Good Luck

Love me Wild Hare's........

[RustyTumbles]

Hey Tom,

Any idea when the 35% edge will be available down under?

[wildhare]

Not soon, you need to talk to Howie and tell him to order some.

TF

[Tired Old Man]

Tailwheel and Main Gear

For those that elect not to use the tailwheel that arrives in the box with the plane, several gear manufacturers will work quite well. Since RC Blimp bit the dust I had been looking around for a new tailwheel and two of the higher end products, White Rose and J&J, were at the top of the list. Ohio Superstar tailwheels come in various sizes but are very heavy. Graphtech stuff, though they fit, just don't do anything for me for historical reasons. Tom has a pretty good carbon leaf that's strong and durable enough to do the job. With his you simply adapt parts from the stock tailwheel to the leaf and install.

Due to size and appearance I went with the new J&J Tailwheels design which, although not inexpensive, looks real good, is sized just about perfect, and looks like it will hold up for a very long time. It's a much better product than the RC Blimp products were. If fits very well in the space provided, although the hole that's factory drilled in the bottom of the fuselage for the stock tailwheel is a little too much forward to fit the J&J. Easy solution is to mark the centerline of the fuselage and drill a new 1/4" hole. The downside is that the additional support needed for the vertical leg of the wire gear is located where the stock gear is supposed to mount, with no support (it's anticipated most would use the stock gear) at the location used to mount the J&J gear. If you're not opposed to opening up the covering on one side of the fuselage you can easily add another layer of 1/8" or 3/16" light ply (or a pice of thick balsa sheet) over the existing bottom ply layer to provide additional tailwheel support. If you don't want to open up the side use the stock gear. In any event, remove the sheet metal screws after the initial installation and harden the threads with thin ca glue. It works great and the screws don't fall out.

The rear mounting bracket that comes with the J&J tailwheel is just a little too wide for the most aft mounting point so a little creativity is in order. I used some nylon electrical wire supports in the same manner RC Blimp gear was mounted. A note about the J&J mounts is in order. The mounts are very nice and extremely easy to use but the holes cast into the mounts for the attaching screws is pretty large for most purposes. I had to use a #6 screw with a flat washer to span the hole dimensions and provide something for the screw head to rest on. Think I'll send a note to J&J to see if they might consider casting the mounting brackets with a smaller hole or none at all to better facilitate different screw sizes.

Pictures of the manufacturer hardware kit labeling, the J&J tailwheel and black mounting bracket, attachment method, and interior fuse support are attached for clarity. Bear in mind that the J&J tailwheel is also intended for aircraft 40% plus in size so it should be expected to have a larger mounting bracket to fit larger planes.

If you haven't already mounted the engine or determined where it will go be sure to remove the tailwheel if you intend to stand up the fuselage for the engine mounting process. Hope you have a tall ladder handy

A little note about hardware kits.

The factory provides what is seen in the pictures and arrives in the box with the plane. However, Wild Hare provides an extremely complete and high end accessory hardware kit at an additional charge. Somewhere around $75.00 or so but don't hold me or them to that number. The accessory hardware kit contains fun stuff like the gas tank, fuel line, fuel dot, wheels, axels, pull/pull kit, parts for making linkages, and other stuff that you normally have to run out an locate or order separately from other mail order vendors. Gas isn't cheap anymore so running around costs $$, let alone the lost time. Additional mail order charges from other vendors can add a lot to the cost of an assembly. It's well worth the effort to call or e-mail Wild Hare to find out more about the accessory hardware kits and other products they carry that you might want or require and order everything at the same time. Things like servos, extensions, batteries, propellers, pre-cut spinners, and engines are there for those that may need or desire them. Saves you time and money!!

Main Gear

The main gear are too easy. As usual the mounting holes for the main gear are pre drilled in the gear legs and in the bottom of the fuselage. Inside the fuselage the holes are drilled through the aluminum angle brackets that provide tremendous amounts of stress support during landings. In all the Wild Hare planes I've had I've never managed to tear the gear legs out of the fuselage and there have been some pretty nasty landings at one time or another. On one "arrival" after the engine quit in a medium height hover the plane (a 28% Extra) barely had time to return to upright and level before impacting the ground from a near vertical fall. The message is you have to try very hard to rip the bottom out of a Wild Hare plane during a "landing". Well designed gear mounts that give us all that warm and fuzzy feeling when we make that less that perfect landing

The main gear is attached with four #8 screws and nylock nuts that are provided in the manufacturer provided hardware kit. Easy to find since the package is labeled "main wheel". In that package you will find a couple of blind nuts that you will later use on the wheel pants. It a simple task to bolt up the main gear to the fuselage but you will want to "square" the gear legs with the fuselage before tightening the screws and nuts. Measure from the front of the gear legs to the cowl mounting flange on the bottom of the fuselage to square the gear. Being off a little bit can cause the plane to steer a bit less than straight ahead on the ground. You can use blue Locktite to secure the nylock nuts when you attach the nuts or green Locktite to wick down into the threads after attaching the nuts. Your choice, but be sure to use something. Nothing worse than watching the gear fall off or swing sideways when the plane is in flight.

The pictures of the main gear installation should pretty well cover questions about a pipe tunnel. You may elect to use cans or be creative and use long tuned pipes. Using longer tuned pipes will mean making personalized modifications inside the fuse and relocating some radio components, but the room is there to do so if desired.

[The_Wreck]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	Well, good fortune will smile upon all since the production planes wil come in living color. One of the schemes I wish I had. Sort of an "Austin Powers" type British theme. Just awesome! The J&J tailwheel is a perfect fit for this plane! Took about 20 minutes to align, drill, and attach it to the plane. Seems to have about the right amount of "spring" to it as well. The ring on the cowl says a 4-1/2" spinner will be the one.

Just spotted your thread. Thanks for the good press. You are truely a great customer. Glad it worked out for you. If you talk to wild hare, we have very attractive dealer pricing.

Thanks

[Tired Old Man]

Wing Area:

Regarding the wing area. Although I have yet to do pics with the wings on I did some rough measuring and math today. Tom stated in another thread that the wing area will be around 1,900 sq.in. I haven't measured areas in quite a while but taking the length times the width, adding for the fuselage area, and subtracting for the wing taper, I came up with a bit over 2,200 sq. in. There's a little wiggle room in that since I did not factor the fuselage taper, but the amount I left out of the posted number, about 95 sq. in., should cover that.

From Tom Fawcett:

Measure the root and tip. Add together and divide by 2, then multiply by 102.5 (the wing span).

This is the accepted formula for determining wing area.

My Reply:

Easier than the way I did it. 1985 sq.in. using the accepted way.




TF