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#76 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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This it the T-can from my Osmose. I cut off the base and reinstalled a new root rib so that the incidence would be correct for this plane, as the slope of the fuselages are much different.
Jim
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#77 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 233
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Just curious as to why you are putting the bolts in your wings. Are you using the nylon bolt with nut for the leading edge retainer? I would assume that would be all you need. Steve. |
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#78 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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Hi Steve,
The hard points were in the wing. It seemed like the right thing to do. Jim
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#79 |
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Smoke on!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oak Ridge, NC
Posts: 4,212
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Jim,
I think I probably missed it in the thread somewhere, but what kind of paint did you use and how close is the match to the monokote? |
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#80 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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Cspaced,
I went to Finish Master auto paint store, and matched monocote colors to Paint Chip samples they have. My wife is the artist type, and even she can't see a difference in tone of colors. Tomorrow I'll have it out in the sun for some pictures. In the garage under phlorecent lights, I can't tell a shade difference between the monocote and paint. Paint is Nason base/clear system. Thanks, Jim
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#81 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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Finally!!! Wings finished a dissapointing 16.76 oz and 16.01 oz each. This is because of the construction of the removable tips. Instead of 1 glue joint to hold the tip (comparing to a triditional wing) there are 4 glue joints per wing tip: foam, a section of balsa, ply rib with blind nuts, ply rib, balsa tip. So, I guess with the T (less than 2.0 oz) and the wings, the plane is about 10 lbs 4 oz. I'll get a better weight in a bit.
Its hard to photo the plane with my smaller camera, but it really looks sharp out in the sun!!! The clear coat puts out quite a glare!!Hopefully I'll get a test flight in tomorrow or Tuesday, pending weather. The T-canalizer looks right at home, and nicely proportional to the plane. Thanks, Jim
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#82 |
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Smoke on!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oak Ridge, NC
Posts: 4,212
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Looks fantastic Jim, best of luck with it - looking forward to the flight reports!
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#83 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: La Jolla, CA USA
Posts: 2,661
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Jim,
Your Passport looks great, good job. I maidened my Neu Powered electric version yesterday. This is my first 2 meter pattern ship so I am no expert on them, but it sure flew great. I tend to over control it, it seems to need much less inputs than my 40% IMAC planes. It tracks incredible, and rolls better than anything I have ever flown. I'm interested in reading your flight reports, and what you learn about trimming the Passport. |
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#84 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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Posts: 1,128
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Hi Steve - Congratulations on your maiden!! I'm hoping to maiden mine after work today, so long as the weather holds out. I'll let you know what I come across.
It is much harder for me to switch from IMAC to pattern planes, like you are doing now. You ca not horse-around a pattern plane like you can an IMAC plane. Also, with these newer pattern planes, if you think "rudder", yaw is happening, where as with IMAC, you sort of hold the rudder and watch it start to happen. I'm very happy you like the plane!! Thanks, Jim
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#85 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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Hi Guys,
I flew one fight last night after work. The YS 160 ran awesome, except that I can't shut it off! It just ticks and ticks and ticks over at a very low idle. I guess this is not a totally bad problem to have The engine ran strong and did not overheat, so cooling is fine at least in these temperatures.How did the plane fly???? I needed about 3 micro-clicks of aileron trim, and about 6 or 7 micro-clicks of up trim on take off. So far so good! Uplines were straight, Downlines pulled out a touch. Left and right rudder knife-edge passes (short distances) seemed neutral. In horizontal flight, the rudder turns stayed flat and didn't pitch or roll out either way. If you haven't read this before, the rudder is VERY STRONG on this plane. However, I posted the T-can picture again becsue "Yes it works."..... The rudder is very authoritative, but is not twitcy with the T-can installed. For a first flight, I'm very pleased. I'll post more later after I get a few more on it. Thanks, Jim Setup: 1. Wing - .25 deg positive 2. T-can - .25 (matches wing best I could) 3. Stab - zero deg to canopy line 4. Thrust - matches firewall/nose alignment 4. CG Static- around leading edge of wing tube - maybe just a head of it 5. CG in Flight: Inverted 45 uplines need a tad of down elevator to maintain
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Team Futaba / Dalton Aviation / Desert Aircraft / YS Parts & Service / Budd Engineering / Smart-Fly / Competitionairframes.com / Netbox Hobby Last edited by Jim Woodward; 11-25-2008 at 08:40 AM. |
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#86 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 6
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Jim congratulations! looks great!
I have a couple of questions. - why not use the original stabs? - difference between t-can witho and without (I´m thinking on puting one on mine.) see you at tangerine! TUNY |
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#87 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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Posts: 1,128
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Hi Tuny,
I need to fix the tip on one of my new stabs, and just to get in the air faster, I decided to use the stabs that were RTF from my Osmose. I think they are basically the same anyway in terms of size and dimensions. I flew the Osmose with and wihthout the T-can. I did not like the plane without the T-can. I have heard that basically all PassPorts had needed some amount of up elevator mix. Given the T-can adds positive pitcing moment with rudder input, and I like the overall effect from the Osmose, I decided to install it. I will let you fly it next weekend! Jim
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#88 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,128
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HI Guys,
These picture show a relief slot I opened up on the chin cowl. I tilted the motor to the left to move the header a bit more away from chin cowl. However, the chin cowl wraps tightly around the motor pump area so I started to get a crack where this slot is now. Looking at it, the edge of the pump flange was actually the closest part of the motor to any surface of the chin cowl. I opened up this slot, problem is resolved. On to the best part. It seems like all the good things I loved about the Osmose are built-in to the PassPort, but to a greater degree. Again, my PassPort has the T-can and Osmsose horizontal stabilizer. Left rudder is Zero elevator mix. Right rudder is 2% down elevator. I mentioned earlier that my wings were 16.76 and 16.01 oz earlier. During calm day loop tracking, I determined that the left wing was heavy, and added aboug 1/8th oz to the right wing tip. Tracking was now nearly perfect inside and outside. When i dissasembled the plane, the "heavy" wing in flight was indeed the 16.76 oz wing, and the lighter wing had received the tip weight. Rudder: This plane will shift your paradigm on what an effective rudder really is. I'm using the single-piece rudder on pull-pull cables, not the split rudder option. I am flying 1 1/8' throw each direction for all normal flight, including rolling loops and knife-edge loops. I am using a "full-swing" rate for stall turns. There is so little rudder used in flight, that you have to ensure your rudder setup is centering well. Roll Mix: I am using 10% linear roll mix. Left rudder gets left aileron. Right rudder gets right aileron. However, due to the low rudder movement, the amount of aileron movement is also small. Later on I plan to try a point-mix to bring in the roll mix closer to the center of the stick. That should bring the overall number into the 3-4% range I believe. Low-throttle has a point-mix so that the final click of power brings in 2% down elevator. Thats it - no funny stuff. The plane draws great lines, it rock-solid-stable, point rolls with ease, can fly at very low airspeeds and still show almost zero rudder input. The integrated rolling stuff is executable to a high degree - plane carves it power on and power off no problem. The knife-edge loop is easy to get started, and easy to finish. Of course, you need to still shape it, but noteably, in the last 90 degrees, nothing funny is happenning to the plane. Snap rolls have the same low-rate rudder, 9 deg up, 10 deg down for elevator, and 24 degrees up and down for the ailerons. Spins are done on high rate elevator and high rate rudder only - no need for aileron. Rolling circles? I did the best 2-roll opposite circle of my life the other day. ![]() ![]() I landed and went home ![]() Thanks, Jim
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#89 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: La Jolla, CA USA
Posts: 2,661
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Thanks for the mixing tips Jim. I got six more flights on mine this weekend. I am still lowering my rudder travel. I guess I am just having a hard time believing it has so much authority with so little travel. I think I will have to add a little down thrust, because I notice that my spinner is not quite lined up with the nose ring, this is causing me to carry a tinny bit of down elevator when trimmed for level flight. It also is increasing my rudder mixes to compensate for a slight pull to the gear. It is incredible how sensitive this plane is to very small adjustments, or mis-adjustments in my case. Still, so far, it is the best tracking and rolling plane I have ever flown. Snaps are just so crisp, they stop perfectly almost every time. I had always heard that pattern planes don't snap well. Not true with this one, simply an amazing plane.
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#90 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
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Posts: 1,128
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Steve - thanks for your update. Let us know if you change the thrust and how it works.
Thanks, Jim
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