Stripped Screws: Now What?

[Smacka]

Please see the attached photos. I successfully installed 34-screws. The last two stripped the heads out.

Can I fly like this? If not, any suggestions on how to correct this issue? The two screws are on the right side elevator.

Thank you!

[teedee]

remove the screws by using a Dremel tool and cut off wheel to cut a slot in the screw. Use a screwdriver to remove and replace soft screws with quality screws from Du-Bro or similar.

[ta154]

Option 1:
Grab them on their heads with a visegrip and unscrew.

Option 2:
Use cut off tool, such as with Dremel Moto Tool and cut off heads. Remove control horns. Grab with vicegrip and unscrew.

The snag you have is becasue those are not USA manufactured Phillips heads screws, which means that the angle of the slots is different. We ran into this problem many years ago in our Japanese car service garage. So we had screwdrivers which fit the Japanese Phillips head screws. They will not slip out and strip the heads.

I'd suggest that when replacement time comes, you do yourself a big favor and replace all those screws with those style of heads with socket head cap screws. Use either a machine screw which goes all the way through your elevator and has a nut with washer and lock washer on it od get the Du-Bro screws which have a sheet metal thread and a socket head cap. You won't have any more problems.

Oh, and no, I would not fly the plane when the control horns are not properly installed.

[ta154]

	Quote: Originally Posted by teedee
	remove the screws by using a Dremel tool and cut off wheel to cut a slot in the screw. Use a screwdriver to remove and replace soft screws with quality screws from Du-Bro or similar.

Essentially correct.

However, trying to cut a slot in those dinky screws is challenging and likely to result in damage to your elevator when the cut off tool slips - not if but when .

You also run the risk of breaking off one of the tabs you make when you start cranking on it with the screwdriver. Once the screw breaks off flush with the stab surface you have a much bigger problem.

Guess how I know these things. No prize when you get the correct answer.

[Smacka]

Oh boy...here is the trump card. The manual stated to use thick CA to install all control horn screws.

Now, how screwed am I?

I really like the cap screw idea. It would be cleaner looking, as well. Will the vice grips fight through the CA glue?

[whirlyspud]

A little bit of heat from a soldering iron will help with the ca. You might have to apply the heat, unscrew a turn or two then redo the heat again. Do it in a well ventilated area. I did the same damn thing on a hanger 9 cap a few years back. Heat and dremel saved the day.

Mike

[CSpaced]

Craftsman to the rescue.... worth every penny.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952157000P

[ferocious frankie]

Another option is to try to get a high torque screw driver. I had this same exact problem and went out and got a high torque screw driver. The stripped screw came out like butter. I'm not sure, but I think the size was a #1. If you haven't done the other control horns, don't use AW's method of putting glue on the screw and screwing it in the wood. Thread the screw in the pre-drilled hole and take it out. Put a drop of thin CA in the hole and let it dry. Then thread the screw back into the hole. Will never come out!

I'm just curious, it looks like AW has changed their control horns for this plane. I only had the one control horn with the plastic insert. It looks like it uses the two horns linked together now. Does it come with ball links on the control surface end also? If it does, great! Way more easier and less prone to failure with the plastic inserts. I guess they really do read the forums.

[airborneSGT]

The Dremel and or Vice Grip option would work. You might look into hex head screws for future use. Perhaps tapping the holes a little more before driving in the screws. Seems to be enough on there to grab on the screws with mini vice grips or pliers and make slow progress taking them out.

You are by no means out of luck here! Just a small mistake bro. I second putting some CA into the holes prior to putting in screws. Takes like 2 seconds and works.

[Scrima]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ferocious frankie
	Another option is to try to get a high torque screw driver. I had this same exact problem and went out and got a high torque screw driver. The stripped screw came out like butter. I'm not sure, but I think the size was a #1. If you haven't done the other control horns, don't use AW's method of putting glue on the screw and screwing it in the wood. Thread the screw in the pre-drilled hole and take it out. Put a drop of thin CA in the hole and let it dry. Then thread the screw back into the hole. Will never come out! I'm just curious, it looks like AW has changed their control horns for this plane. I only had the one control horn with the plastic insert. It looks like it uses the two horns linked together now. Does it come with ball links on the control surface end also? If it does, great! Way more easier and less prone to failure with the plastic inserts. I guess they really do read the forums.

I built and flew an AW 50cc Extra for two seasons and am currently building the 150cc Yak. What I found really helps is using the Microfasteners #2 x 9/16 socket head screws instead of the REALLY soft philips heads that come with the plane. Much more difficult to strip the heads on these.

[ferocious frankie]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Scrima
	I built and flew an AW 50cc Extra for two seasons and am currently building the 150cc Yak. What I found really helps is using the Microfasteners #2 x 9/16 socket head screws instead of the REALLY soft philips heads that come with the plane. Much more difficult to strip the heads on these.

Exactly, this helps tremendously. Personally, I don't like phillips screws for their ability to strip so easily. Bad design IMO.

[bgold]

Hex head screws are definately the best but if you must Central Hobbies sells a set of four JIS (Japanese Indusrtial Standard) screwdrivers for about $17.00. They can save a lot sometimes, but I usually use the Vise-grip.

[Smacka]

[quote=I'm just curious, it looks like AW has changed their control horns for this plane. I only had the one control horn with the plastic insert. It looks like it uses the two horns linked together now. Does it come with ball links on the control surface end also? If it does, great! Way more easier and less prone to failure with the plastic inserts. I guess they really do read the forums.[/quote]

Hi FF:
Naw, they made a mistake and drilled the flight surfaces for the 50cc control horn set and AW worked with me to obtain the 50cc set. I think it will look really cool.

[luv2flyguy]

	Quote: Originally Posted by ferocious frankie
	Another option is to try to get a high torque screw driver. I had this same exact problem and went out and got a high torque screw driver. The stripped screw came out like butter. I'm not sure, but I think the size was a #1. If you haven't done the other control horns, don't use AW's method of putting glue on the screw and screwing it in the wood. Thread the screw in the pre-drilled hole and take it out. Put a drop of thin CA in the hole and let it dry. Then thread the screw back into the hole. Will never come out! I'm just curious, it looks like AW has changed their control horns for this plane. I only had the one control horn with the plastic insert. It looks like it uses the two horns linked together now. Does it come with ball links on the control surface end also? If it does, great! Way more easier and less prone to failure with the plastic inserts. I guess they really do read the forums.

These are the standard control horns on both my AW planes, the ball link goes between the two horns and a 4-40 cap head screw goes thru with a nylon lock nut on the other side, works great. Hey you may try a very small amout of Debond around the screw, however be careful not to let it run in to the control surface, use a needle applicator, I think they would come out and as stated call up Micro Fasteners and get the #2x9/16 cap head screws. Just my thoughts. I think the extractor ideal from Sears is going to be the way to go.

[Smacka]

SUCCESS!!

I used a pair of pliers to "very slowly" remove the screws. I will order replacement cap screws, as has been suggested.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP AND ENCOURAGEMENT!!