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#1 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United States, CA, Oak Hills
Posts: 15
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I'm starting a kit and I have a couple of questions about glue. Tony reccomends Titebond Original glue and the Titebond White glue.
For you guys that live where it gets really cold, what do you use. Titebond calls for at least 50 degrees room temp. My shop is not heated, last night it was 40 degrees when I got home. Does that mean that I have to wait until it gets warmer to get started? Also, I can't find anyone in my area that carries the Titebond white glue. Does anyone know where I can get it? I've tried Lowe, Home Depot, Ace, True Value. I would normally apply the glue to the joint and then assemble the two parts together. The instruction manual seems to imply that he joins the parts and then applys the glue to the joint. Is that correct? Thanks |
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#2 |
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3D JUNKIE
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SanAntonio,TX
Age: 40
Posts: 3,386
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We use thin CA, it wicks into the joint where as other glues dont SOAK into the wood, they just build up around the joint. Then we go back with Med. CA and build up around the joint. The only thing we use other glue on is sheeting over foam and we use Gorilla Glue.
MikeC |
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#3 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Lesebergs pit bitch
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson
Age: 38
Posts: 2,257
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#4 |
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Flyin' Around
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: United States, CA, Oak Hills
Posts: 15
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Thanks Tony, I didn't think it made any sense to not put the glue on prior to assembly. I just wanted to know if that's what the instructions were implying. Does it make any difference which Titebond glue I use? Such as Origional or Titebond II? I think that the only difference is one indoor and the other is outdoor.
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#5 |
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Lesebergs pit bitch
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson
Age: 38
Posts: 2,257
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Ive used Titebond 1 and Titebond III. Either will work fine.
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#6 |
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3D JUNKIE
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SanAntonio,TX
Age: 40
Posts: 3,386
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Theres always more than one way to skin a cat....we use CA and dont have any problems with it. To each his own, never used Titebond, It obviously works on Mark's planes, we use Probond and Gorilla glue with excellent results. As long as you have a clean joint and allow proper time to cure, Any of it will work fine.
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#7 |
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Doo It! Doo It!
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Hesperia, CA
Posts: 96
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CA certianly has it's uses. I've read somewhere else where someone used CA to build a large plane and they had a problem later down the road with it holding together. I've built smaller planes with CA and never had a problem. I've also used a lot of Titebond in my woodworking and way back in the stone ages prior to CA becoming popular. I think that I would defer to Tony since he is the maker of the kit. I would use whatever he told me regardless of what other glue I think would be best. After all that's a big chunk of money for foam cores and a box of wood. I wouldn't take any chance of screwing it up. Just my 2 cents worth, which wouldn't buy you anything anyway.
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#8 |
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Lesebergs pit bitch
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tucson
Age: 38
Posts: 2,257
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I use gorrila glue ( polyurethane glue ) on all of my foam sheeting. 90% of the joints in my fuselage are plywood to plywood and in my opinion the wood glue will produce a better stronger joint and hold up better to vibrations. I know others have used ca to build large planes with great success and im not saying it cant be done. The way the construction is on my fuselages you can frame it up completly using wood glue and not be standing around waiting for glue to dry so for me there is no benefit to use ca on the fuselage.
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#9 |
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Drakien is my hero
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 1,475
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Titebond original white glue has become difficult to find. It is a PVAC glue. The closest chemistry I have found is Elmers interior wood glue. I have picked some up and will edge glue a couple of pieces of balsa with it and see how the stuff sands. That is the only place I used white on my first kit.
(PVAC us Poly Vinyl Acetate iirc)
__________________
The sweet taste of a cheap price, soon fades in the bitter reality of missed expectations. Go the extra mile. It is never crowded out there. http://www.stansphotos.com/ |
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#10 |
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TEAM FEARLESS MARYLAND
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Age: 39
Posts: 790
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After I saw sass25479's avatar I forgot what the thread topic was!
Oh yea it was about pink uhh I mean glue. Titebond is really good glue. I have used it to build fuse's on a couple .40 size glow kits that I built and they held together great. I also used it on my arcade machine as well. It dries pretty quick, it's easy to clean up and it's not that expensive either. Shawn
__________________
20.3lb Comp-Arf 2.3m Extra 330l with a DA-85 ![]() H9 Tango .40 with an O.S. 55AX Park Zone Typhoon 2 3D E-Flite Blade MCX for wife and kid chasing ![]() ![]() http://www.freewebs.com/team_fearless/index.htm Team Fearless Official Site http://www.teamfearlessrc.com/ Last edited by ~SnApRoLl; 01-29-2009 at 07:02 PM. |
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#11 |
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RUTNBUC
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: McClellanville South Carolina
Age: 48
Posts: 1,748
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Hairy camel toe Alert - Alert -----------Nice shot sass
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#12 |
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lancaster , PA
Age: 53
Posts: 659
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I use rubber cement, very forgiving on rough landings
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#13 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: High Desert California, USA
Age: 50
Posts: 5,691
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Old thread... I know... Tony... could you briefly outline your process for sheeting wings with GG?? thanks mds |
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#14 | ||||||||||||||||||
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Bad-ass Super Contributer!
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 939
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#15 |
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DA isn't Haulin it? It Drags
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 766
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I have a good way to sheet foam cores, however I too would like to hear from Tony about his process.
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