Baudis Trinity build

[RustyTumbles]

Well I finally cleared my work bench of my lasy project and now its time to start on the Trinity.

Here the specs:

• Span 3100mm
• Wing area 61dm2
• Wing aspect ratio 15,8
• Wing airfoil HD 45 mod.
• V-Tail area 6,8dm2
• Fuselage length 1610mm
• Empty mass approx. 1500g
• Take-off mass approx. 2150g
• Wing loading approx. 35g/dm2

This is my first composite glider and first high performance glider. I am not intending to compete with this model, I just want a nice glider that can make good use of light lift.

I will be using Hitec 125MG's all round and spectrum AR9000 Rx. Not sure on battery at this stage but I will more than likely have to make a custom pack to fit up front.

Here's some pics of the bare airframe.

[RustyTumbles]

Still raining here so it made for a good building day.

Got the V-tail pushrods done, cut out the front bay in the fuse, mounted the V-tail servo's and switch.

I'm using the radio carbon art F3 build clinic DVD as my build guide as I have not built one of these gliders before. It has been very helpful so far, lots of great info and techniques.

Here's some pics

[pitviper51]

this is more like it! great looking ship. iv read alot of greatness about the trinitys, wish i could justify getting a big hp thermal/sloper haha. ill be starting thebuild on my binary 900 micro DLG soon, its onthe way from china now haha. ill be following this!
mike

[RustyTumbles]

Got some more done on the trinity today

Finished of the v-tail servo and pushrod installs, setup the throws on the tail. I have also started on the wiring harness for the fuse. Basically a lighter way to wire up the battery and servos, also allows a simple one plug for the wing to fuse joint instead of 4 servo leads. I will be using a 6 pin multiplex plug for that. I was considering going for a automating plug between the wing and fuse but I didn't think I could get it right so I'm going for the easy option.

One thing I am a little concerned with is the trinity has a slip on nose section and the usual practise for 2.4Ghz systems in carbon gliders is to drill small holes in the fuse and poke the aerials outside the fuse. With the slip on nose cone it is impossible to do that. So I am a little worried out range issues if I leave the aerials internal.

I'll post some more pics tomorrow.

[RustyTumbles]

Here some more pics.

Had to grind the outside edges of the servo arms and ball links so the nose cone would slide over them and not foul while in flight.

[RustyTumbles]

Finished of the fuse wiring harness tonight. Just have to get an Rx battery and finalise the mounting of receiver etc. It's a little messy but it is hard to keep it neat in such a skinny fuse. I guess I'm used to working with large aerobatic models.

Hopefully start on the wing in the next few days.

Here's some more pics.

[pitviper51]

sweet! iv seen alot of great video of this ship, should be a great machine, no dought they dont have much room to work in haha,
mike

[RustyTumbles]

Started on the wing today. Managed to get the wing wiring harness done and all the servos centred and ready to install. I had to enlarge the hole in the top of the fuse to allow the excess wiring to slide in nicely without forcing it.

I will start on the wing servo installs tomorrow.

[Wind Junkie]

Hi Rusty,

I built one of these 2 years ago. I'm using an AR7000 and I have the remote antenna placed under the servo area horizontally. The main unit is up front and the antenna point vertically more or less. I've had good reception EXCEPT when I carelessly placed the front RX too close to my large battery pack (5 cell NiMH) and had a scary moment when flying. I landed, had a really bad range check (less than 20 feet!), and then moved the RX to where I originally placed it, rechecked the range to be about 50 feet and flew the rest of the day. I race mine at the MWSC and haven't had issues with it since.

I put the RX's in soft foam blocks (like the grey foam that comes in the package) with the antenna oriented into slits in the foam so I know they'll stay that way. They're so small I think that's important given the shielding problem I experienced.

Mine has no carbon in the slip on nose cone other than a ring at the very rear. My fuse nose has 4 carbon stips at the corners oriented the long way pointing to the nose. This still gives some carbon free "windows" which the signal can pass through.

Be sure to do a range check with your system, but I think you will be ok with some careful installation techniques without resorting to cuttng holes and installing "whiskers." The noses on these things are busy, but the remote antennas give the RX options and your AR 9000 can even have another RX if you wish (2 remotes).

One other note: Unless the mold has been changed, most everyone who builds the Trinity elects to shim the FRONT of the V tail stab assembly (see pic). Once you get the CG where you like it, check how much down trim you have and I think you'll find it's a lot of down. I used about 4 layers of electrical tape on mine under the front screw.

Joe

[RustyTumbles]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Wind Junkie
	Hi Rusty, I built one of these 2 years ago. I'm using an AR7000 and I have the remote antenna placed under the servo area horizontally. The main unit is up front and the antenna point vertically more or less. I've had good reception EXCEPT when I carelessly placed the front RX too close to my large battery pack (5 cell NiMH) and had a scary moment when flying. I landed, had a really bad range check (less than 20 feet!), and then moved the RX to where I originally placed it, rechecked the range to be about 50 feet and flew the rest of the day. I race mine at the MWSC and haven't had issues with it since. I put the RX's in soft foam blocks (like the grey foam that comes in the package) with the antenna oriented into slits in the foam so I know they'll stay that way. They're so small I think that's important given the shielding problem I experienced. Mine has no carbon in the slip on nose cone other than a ring at the very rear. My fuse nose has 4 carbon stips at the corners oriented the long way pointing to the nose. This still gives some carbon free "windows" which the signal can pass through. Be sure to do a range check with your system, but I think you will be ok with some careful installation techniques without resorting to cuttng holes and installing "whiskers." The noses on these things are busy, but the remote antennas give the RX options and your AR 9000 can even have another RX if you wish (2 remotes). One other note: Unless the mold has been changed, most everyone who builds the Trinity elects to shim the FRONT of the V tail stab assembly (see pic). Once you get the CG where you like it, check how much down trim you have and I think you'll find it's a lot of down. I used about 4 layers of electrical tape on mine under the front screw. Joe

Thanks for the heads up mate. I'm going to use the AR7000 now as it is a better fit than the 9000. I was going to sit the main Rx on top of the battery pack as I am going to use a 5 cell NimH in a hump type config. But I may be able to push the battery further forward and mount the rx on some foam as you discribed. My fuse has the same carbon layup as yours also. Would you be able to post some pics of your install? Also where is a good starting piont for the CG? I'll be using it for mainly thermal flying.

Cheers

Rusty

[RustyTumbles]

Almost finished setting up one of the flaps. Man these top drive flaps are hard to get setup right. Took alot of cutting and grinding to stop the push rod binding on the top wing skin. All glued in and some basic rates setup. Hope to get the other flap setup tomorrow. Have to remember to put the camera on charge too.

I'll post some more pics tomorrow.

[Wind Junkie]

Not really too much to see without taking everything out. I guess my main points in mounting the RX was to get the antenna away from the battery. The remote antenna is in the cavity under where the ballast is loaded.

[RustyTumbles]

Thanks

[pitviper51]

i want TD ship like this...

[RustyTumbles]

Build update

I have finished installing the flap and aileron servo into the wing as well as all the linkages. The fisrt flap was a pain in the a$$ but once it was finished I just had to transfer all the measurements onto the other side and I had it done in half the time. The main problem was the slot you need to cut in the top surface of the wing to clear the top drive pushrod.

Servo's are wrapped in two layers of masking tape and then glued into the wing with expoxy and micro balloons, this give a very strong lightweight mount and the servo is still removeable if need be.

Just have to finsh of the radio setup for the ailerons and flaps, then I can make up the servo covers and the wing is completed.

Not really that much more to do, I'm waiting for an adjustable tow hook and my Rx pack to arrive. Once I have them I can finish the fuse and finalise the CG. Then it's off to the field (once it dries out from the recent floods)

Here's some more pics.