Just For Newbee's to Gassers

[dpoles]

Al,
Thanks for this thread, it has been a HUGE help.

[Al Lewis]

Glad I could help buddy!

[dpoles]

Al, your new avatar gives me the creeps!

[NoGlowGoGas4804]

<p>

	Quote: Originally Posted by Al Lewis
	Good luck with your project and glad I could make it a little easier for you.<img src="images/smilies/198.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" smilieid="264" class="inlineimg" /><img src="images/smilies/198.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" smilieid="264" class="inlineimg" /><img src="images/smilies/198.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" smilieid="264" class="inlineimg" /><img src="images/smilies/198.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" smilieid="264" class="inlineimg" /><img src="images/smilies/198.gif" border="0" alt="" title="" smilieid="264" class="inlineimg" />

</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>

[dpoles]

^ ???

Anyone have good pics of a DL50 Choke installation.
I have done mine twice and am still not happy with the setup. I think I need to make 2 brackets for better support.

Any pictures for inspiration and ideas would be appreciated.

[jdmilla]

I just used the tie-wrap method as posted by rede2fly...


Works great, takes 2 minutes to install.

[Al Lewis]

Here are some shots of the one I did using the composite arm that came with my engine. Looks fairly professional and works great. Nice and solid.

[weezle]

for reference!

[Rishelman]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Al Lewis
	The last thing you may encounter with a gas engine is a problem with the metering valve caused by swirling air inside of the cowl. This can cause the engine to die because the metering valve isn't reading the correct atmospheric pressure. Here's how I make sure that doesn't happen. I remove the plate over the metering valve, it's the plate on the side of the carb with the little hole in it, and drill and tap that little hole out to accept an 8-32 pressure nipple from an old glow muffler. I then thread that into the plate and carefully grind off the excess on the back side of the plate so it can't damage the diaphragm. Once the plate is back in place you can run a piece of fuel line from the nipple to inside of the fuse where the air is still. I run mine into an old pill bottle or film container. If you do that make sure the container is not air tight. Attached Thumbnails

Hey Al, I've read many of your posts and it seems you know your stuff, and I appreciate all the good info.
I have a new DL 50. Just switched to leaner gas and tuned my needles. Runs perfect on the ground but fairly "Gurgly" in the mid and low in the air. Low needle is already down to just under 1 turn. I figured it was a good candidate for this mod.
But, when I did it, it seemed the engine was starving for fuel. It would not accept any throttle while warming up, it would just bog down abruptly. I let it warm up, then I could give it some throttle, but once I went to full throttle it would bog again. I thought at first I had an air leak, I checked everything and all was tight. I put a non-modified metering plate back on and it ran fine again.
So, a couple questions: is it normal to have to richen up the low end upon doing this? Does the size of nipple or tube (I soldered copper tube) and fuel line size or length make a difference?

I love the idea of my tune staying the same in the air, I'm just not doing something quite right.

Also, I live on San Juan Island, my needles should be set very similar to your DL, where are your needles?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the helpfull posts.
Rishelman

[Al Lewis]

This mod shouldn't have any effect other then the advantage stated. The hole in your tubing should be the same as the original hole and you should make certain the tube, or nipple, can't interfere with the diaphragm in any way. I should be completely flush with the surface on the underside of the cover. Also be sure and put the diaphragm back in the same way it was, if you took it out.

[Rishelman]

I soldered the tube with a torch. DUHH!...WARPED IT! Put the cover on surface plate and had .004" gap between the surface plate and cover on each side between the screw holes....if that makes sense to ya. I haven't tried it again since flattening it back out, but I kinda got a feeling.

About your screw settings? I'm really just wondering if turning below 3/4 of a turn on the low is normal to get the burble out...or, if with still breaking in it's just not gonna go away without sacrificing response, power, and coolness. I'd rather have it burble than be too lean. And, if nobody else is anywhere near 3/4 or lower, I'll stop where I am and live with it.

Thanks again,
Rishelman

[Al Lewis]

I just live with mine. Doesn't bother me much and my engine will probably last a lot longer without going real lean.

[Aeromodeler]

I'm going to be building my first gasser (MX2) and this thread is a great reference. Thanks Al!! Can you please elaborate more on the metering valve issue though? None of the gassers at my field are doing that procedure but it surely looks like I may want to consider it with all the deadsticks I've seen, especially at throttle down. Thank you. B-

[Al Lewis]

Not sure there's much more I can say about it. Basically the little hole in the metering plate allows air inside of the top of the cover. That air is supposed to be still air and allows the metering diaphragm to react to the atmospheric pressure and meter the gas accordingly. If you get turbulence inside of your cowl it is possible for pressurized air, or a vacuum to ocurr instead of the still air needed. Running the line ensures that the reading will be one of still air and not turbulent air. Hope that helps.

[Aeromodeler]

That helps a lot and makes good sense, thanks. I will surly print this thread for reference while building.