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Old 01-07-2010, 10:53 AM   #1861
crazyflyboy30
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
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I don't get back to town until after noon Saturday. Just tried to order some batteries from Hobby King. Looks like my elec. Edge has to wait some more. Their pay site isn't working for squat.
Yes I had a problem with their pay site but use the one that cost 2% more and it works it cost me $11 more on my DLE-111 but I was still very happy I got it in 3 days for $597 to my door.
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:23 PM   #1862
1974hd
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

I just purchased a DLE55 from valley view for my Aeroworks Extra 260. This is my first gasser so I have been following this thread. I have read a lot of valuable information. T.O.M. could you please explain to me how to check the timing on the 55. I am trying to pick a Pitts muffler for this engine and I am leaning towards J-tec. I noticed they offer a large size as well as the standard size Is there any benefit to the large one other than being quieter and will the large one rob more power? Thanks for your replies.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:12 PM   #1863
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Quote: Originally Posted by 1974hd
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could you please explain to me how to check the timing on the 55.

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Old 01-07-2010, 09:27 PM   #1864
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

great video. thank you for making and posting that
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:35 PM   #1865
1974hd
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

That's easy enough. Does anyone make these protractors or do you have to make your own.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:39 PM   #1866
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Very cool video. Informative and easy to follow. Nice job.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:39 PM   #1867
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

You can print one out here, at the bottom of the page

http://www.ch-ignitions.com/timing.html
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:42 PM   #1868
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

awesome, thanks again, ill print that out tommorow imm shure ill need it someday.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:43 PM   #1869
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Thank You I appreciate your help.
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Old 01-07-2010, 10:31 PM   #1870
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Well I got my new dle 111 on the stand today. Timing was at 32 from the factory so I reset it to 28 then I threw the stock plugs (no markings) into the trash a put in fresh NGK CM6's. Took 11 flips on choke to sputter, then four more with the choke off to fire. Made several short idle to low throttle runs to bring to temp, cooling between each. Now 3 flips with choke, then three with choke off and she fires. A little tuning with the needles and she's puring like a kitten and blowing all the dust out the back door in ths shop. A special thanks to Al Lewis, Tired Old Man, and others for answering all my questions about this motor!
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:31 PM   #1871
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Thanks a bunch printing one as I type. Then out to the hanger to make a bass wood plate. I guess I will need to find TDC to drill the holes in the TDC finder to attach to the prop hub LOL,,,,, Now thats funny I have to find TDC to make the tool I need to find TDC. Also like the paper clip and wire tool.
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:40 PM   #1872
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Hey folks if I wanted to toy with trying 3 blade prop for the DLE-55 what size would I use. Pro's and con's of using a three blade for IMAC. Is it something this engine will handle long term.

Here is a question I think already know the answere to but will check with you. Plan to fly this weekend so pulled the cowl to do a once over. Rotated the prop hub 360* and off compression the bearings felt a bit on the rough side. Another words not smooth nothing to obvious but just a bit on the rough side. I have not flown it in two months. Is this normal or am I going to have to ship it to be looked at. With the prop on, it feels smooth only when prop is off and turning the prop hub by hand.
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:48 PM   #1873
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Too much work. Find a long scrap piece of 4/40 wire laying around the shop. A long piece of a wire coat hanger will do the same thing. Use a spring clamp to attach it to a cylinder fin. Run it out over the protractor and bend the end into an "Ell" that rolls over the edge of the protractor. That becomes your reference pointer.

Find TDC. That's pretty easy to do with the plug installed. Hit top of compression, pass it to the soft center before it comes off compression, bounce it back and forth against the compression stops a few times to average the amount of movement, and split the difference. That really is close enough.

Holding the prop hub to prevent movement, rotate the protractor on the prop shaft to zero the pointer you made with the zero line on the protractor. There's no rule that says the protractor or the wire have to be in line with anything on the engine. They only have to align with the zero point at TDC.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:16 AM   #1874
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

Here's a quote from a well known member but on another forum about setting timing. I haven't done it yet but it is so simple I don't even think I can screw this up...LOL !!!

Quote:
There have been NUMEROUS posts on various forums about engine timing...
First off, a few degrees one way or the other will make NO difference in performance..NONE..PERIOD..
Second, you DO NOT NEED a degree wheel or dial indicator to time an engine...
Third, engines using a HALL SENSOR are easy to time, Early 3W and ALL DA engines don't use a hall sensor, the thing in the holder is an inductor, only 2 of the wires are used...These will not spark when slowly turned, it's not possible to static one of these by listening for a spark..You COULD time one with a timing light if you put some marks on the hub for 28 degrees, but most timing lights won't work through the shielded plug wire..I have an old ignition with the shield taken off to use a timing light..
Fourth, there is NO advantage to setting the timing to more than 30 degrees BTDC...NONE, PERIOD...All you do is make the engine run hotter...
ALL it takes is a cheap Harbor Freight dial caliper and a calculator..
Measure the diameter of the hub...Multiply by .244 for 28 degrees BTDC...This number comes from the formula Diameter x Pi, 3.14, divided by 360 for 1 degree, x 28...Save this number..
Turn the ignition on...Take the wire off the spark plug so you can hear the spark...It is not necessary to put a spark plug in the cap, the spark will get to ground inside the cap..Put the plug in the cap if you want to, I've been doing this for 29 years and have not blown an ignition yet..Slowly turn the crank CCW until you hear a spark...Put a straight line across the hub and case..Put the piston on TDC...Measure the distance between the lines...Move the sensor until the distance is the number you got from the above calculation...That's all there is to it, NO BIG DEAL....
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:01 AM   #1875
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Default Re: New DL-55 and DL-111

TOM and Jody you caught that last part about bearings right?
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