New DL-55 and DL-111

[Yak-54/71]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	Find TDC. That's pretty easy to do with the plug installed. Hit top of compression, pass it to the soft center before it comes off compression, bounce it back and forth against the compression stops a few times to average the amount of movement, and split the difference. That really is close enough.

TDC Thats way you can be 5 to 10 out
that way is VTDC VERITABLY TOP DEAD CENTER
make your self piston stop out of a old spark plug

[zoomer260]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Yak-54/71
	TDC Thats way you can be 5 to 10 out that way is VTDC VERITABLY TOP DEAD CENTER make your self piston stop out of a old spark plug

I have seen quite a few times in this thread and others to make a piston stop to find TDC.

You have to find TDC in order to make the piston stop. Then there is no need for one ?

I reckon I could understand doing it if you planned on working on the same engine(s) all the time and needed to check it regularly.

[Tired Old Man]

Even using math and calipers to degree a hub you'll end up only within a degree or two of whatever you're looking for. Using a piston stop leaves you in the same condition. Using a simple "between the stops" method won't leave you much more than an equal amount off.

The vast majority don't know that the diference of a couple of degrees will rarely be more than 60 rpm either side of ideal. If the power level for you plane is that critical, you need a larger engine.

Oh, yea, once the engine gets hot you don't want 28 degrees anymore. You want less. The ignition coils in our ignition systems don't provide anywhere close to the amount of output they should, so even with perfect timing for the conditions, which varies, you won't have a perfect ignition system. So what are you looking to obtain in your timing? Best cold engine performance or best averaged performance?

+/- 5 degrees doesn't make any difference in our stuff. I ran ignition timing tests in a lab for well over a month looking for the ideal curve. Found that the "perfect" curve changed quite a bit just from outside temperature differences, which affected CHT's, which also affected timing and mixture. I also found that our modeling ignitions do not have the best "curve" for flight operations anyway. Nit pick the timing if you want. You're just spinning your wheels.

[Yak-54/71]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	+/- 5 degrees doesn't make any difference in our stuff.

it does in the heat do your know what Detonation or spark knock is

[crazyflyboy30]

	Quote: Originally Posted by f5air
	Its funny how people es nervous waiting the DLE to quit when people are in hover......and crash, I think they just think it will happen like a DA did to a lot of people at the field. "they always said, well i just can send the engine for warranty, others think inside...o yeah and they also will replace the airplane too?"

Hey you have engine to quit any time for some crazy thing my G62 is has good has they come but my G62 got me 2 times , one time I was hovering 10ft. the sparkplug come off it fail flat and broke one side of the landing gear, the next time the filter stopup in a 20 ft. hover in very high wind it flip over back on it back I roll over almost at the ground it hit so hard it bent the landing gear ,broke the prop., flip over and broke the rudder.The DLE-111 has only quit in a waterfall one time.

[Tired Old Man]

Well Yak, how much time have you put into developing an advance curve that works effectively in temps ranging from -20c to +50c?

Do you know what the squish angle is in the engines you think you might be working with? Do you really know what the mixture settings are in your engines? What about the CO values, along with NOX values? How about the exactitude of the port timing in your various engines and how temperatures affect the tuning of the engine, which correlates to how much advance is needed at a specific rpm and temperature? How about the output of the spark coil with relationship to rpm? How's that coil cycle rate working out for you and what percentage of it's design output are you obtaining at peak rpm? And don't forget the air/fuel ratios you're working with and how they change with CHT. What would be the optimal spark plug for the engine you're flying? Are you using it now? If you're using a CM-6 you're not even close.

No Yak 54/71, I don't have a effin clue about detonation or spark knock or how timing is closely related to those conditions at various periods of engine operation. You clearly know more about it than anyone else but have never spoken up on the subject till all of a sudden. Would you care to enlighten everyone about what the advance should be at 7,000 rpm with a CHT of 160c? How about at 5,000 rpm with a CHT of 130c? How about how prop loading might effect any of this? Or do you know?

[crazyflyboy30]

	Quote: Originally Posted by louu
	i know its been asked before but i cant remember the answer because i think imm overloading my brain with so much airplane info so here goes. can the dle55 igninition handel a straight a123 2 cell? imm looking to upgrade all my stuff

I use 2 A123 with 1 diode this is a quote from CH.

The early RCEXL ignitions have a sticker that says 4.8 to 6 volts. Six volts was two much for some of these systems. The newer versions of these ignitions have a sticker that says version 2. These are OK with 6 volts. I read on R.C.U. that some of the fliers were using two of the A-123 cells on the RCXL ignition, these cells hold 7.2 volts for quite a long time. I have tested these ignitions with this voltage and the case gets fairly warm so transistor has got to be running pretty hot.With 7.2 volts the battery drain is over 700 MA You are on your own if you use over 6 volts, any damage caused by over voltage is not covered by warranty. I have been flying the CHXL single ignitions on one Li Poly. This seems to work fine, the engine will start cutting out before the voltage gets low enough to hurt the single Li -Poly. Just do not forget to turn the ignition off or it will ruin your single cell.

[Yak-54/71]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	No Yak 54/71, I don't have a effin clue

That's all i need to know

[bodywerks]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	The answer is simple. Hover higher. That applies to any engine.

That applied to people that don't trust their engine or their flying ability. If I gotta hover high enough to recover from a stalled engine incident, why bother at all? Might as well fly a kite or something else less exciting...

[Yak-54/71]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	That applied to people that don't trust their engine or their flying ability. If I gotta hover high enough to recover from a stalled engine incident, why bother at all? Might as well fly a kite or something else less exciting...

or Helli

[borealnw]

Well Pat, Allen I missed you guys out at FPM was there at noon and no one but me and the wind sock standing at attention to the west. So I finaly went to Barnstormers in Butteville. The weather was Awesome going to try Molalla again in the AM but if the fog bank is still there then you can find me at either Dusters or back to Barnstormers. Pm if interested or look them up on AMA. Hope to see you there.

[Tired Old Man]

I'll try Dusters in the morning if the wind isn't up. I hope there's not more than one Barnstormers...

Yak, I think you're aware that I am extremely cognizant about timing and it's effects. You're lack of reply to the questions I posed to you indicates that you may not. if I recognize you're name correctly, how's your Dad doing with his projects?

[f5air]

	Quote: Originally Posted by bodywerks
	That applied to people that don't trust their engine or their flying ability. If I gotta hover high enough to recover from a stalled engine incident, why bother at all? Might as well fly a kite or something else less exciting...

yep...right now i can hover almost about 5 feet from the ground...and the DLE55 really feels amazing, if i need power to recover or just go out from hover i know it will do it for me. I just check my firewall bults, standoff, etc sometimes a week jut to be sure of everything...lets say normal check procedure.

[Yak-54/71]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	I'll try Dusters in the morning if the wind isn't up. I hope there's not more than one Barnstormers... Yak, I think you're aware that I am extremely cognizant about timing and it's effects. You're lack of reply to the questions I posed to you indicates that you may not. if I recognize you're name correctly, how's your Dad doing with his projects?

fine with his Thanks

[bmclaughlin]

DLE 111 High Needle Issue - New DLE 111 in my brand new Sbach 342. Sounded OK after minor low needle adjustment with cowl off on 1st tank but kept it in the 2000 to 4000 range with a few short burst at full throttle. 6600 RPM with Vess 27B on short run up. 1st flight 1/3 to 1/2 throttle no problem. 2nd flight gave it more throttle and seemed to be a little lean (sagged a little with the nose up). 3rd through 5th flights richened high needle each time and result was the same, sagged if left for long above 3/4 throttle would recover once throttle below 1/2. Suspected cooling issue. Carefully baffled cowl to ensure airflow must pass through cylinders. Flights 6 through 9 same as others still lean on high end.
High needle is now out 3 full turns out and can not get the engine to break rich. Low is about 1 and 1/2. Transition seems OK.
Not new to gas or DL's. I have had several and currently have a 50, 55, 100 in other planes without issues I can not diagnose. This is new to me and am assuming I must have some sort of obstuction in the high needle circuit. It is not tank, filter, lines or fuel.

Experience help appreciated.

Thanks

Bill