New DL-55 and DL-111

[Tired Old Man]

Doesn't sounfd like the high speed circuit, since when it is the carb normally would not throttle up past 3,000 rpm or so.

Just to be certain, pop the carb and disassemble. Grab a can of the compressed air used for cleaning computers. Use the tiny red air tube to get the right places. Blow out all the tiny passages in the carb body. Careful when you remove the diaphragm. It's directly linked with the metering needle via a small button on the inside of the diaphragm. The diaphragm has to be slid back a little to remove the button from the needle. A straight up lift on the diaphragm will bend the fork of the metering needle, wrecking the needle height adjustment.

The low and high needles with this carb seem to impact each other quite a bit. Using my location as a tuning reference, the needles are out about 7/8-1 on the low and 1 to 1-1/4 on the high. Too lean on the high and you have to enrichen the low. Too rich on the low and you have to lean the high. Balancing act.

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	Doesn't sounfd like the high speed circuit, since when it is the carb normally would not throttle up past 3,000 rpm or so. Just to be certain, pop the carb and disassemble. Grab a can of the compressed air used for cleaning computers. Use the tiny red air tube to get the right places. Blow out all the tiny passages in the carb body. Careful when you remove the diaphragm. It's directly linked with the metering needle via a small button on the inside of the diaphragm. The diaphragm has to be slid back a little to remove the button from the needle. A straight up lift on the diaphragm will bend the fork of the metering needle, wrecking the needle height adjustment. The low and high needles with this carb seem to impact each other quite a bit. Using my location as a tuning reference, the needles are out about 7/8-1 on the low and 1 to 1-1/4 on the high. Too lean on the high and you have to enrichen the low. Too rich on the low and you have to lean the high. Balancing act.

Thanks T-O-M: on the needle thing though it would seem that if I was too rich on the low needle I would then be really rich on the high at 3 turns out....

Any harm in using the carb cleaner stuff in the cans with the same small red tubes? I build Hotrods too and always have that stuff in the garage for cleaning automotive carbs and parts.

Anything in the EMAS carb that would not be friendly with that stuff?

[Tired Old Man]

Anything rubber has to be out. All of that pretty much exits just after the covers come off. I'm not aware of what effects the cleaner may have on any fiber diaphragms. The quick shot cleaner, using the pressure tube, should work. You might want to flush with gas afterwards to remove any cleaning compound.

Be sure you connect the diaphragm with the needle upon reassembly. That may be where the problem is now. Could be the needle height is incorrect. Perhaps too low and not opening enough to permit adequate flow. Inspect the little "flaps" on the metering/pump diaphragm to verify they are sitting flat and not warped or bent.

[bmclaughlin]

No chance to run it yet but went through the carb and did not seen anything, flushed out the passages and reassembled.

Did seem like the float/needle lever would have to move quite a bit to lift the needle from the seat. Is there a good way to reference this setting. How far should the lever travel before it lifts the needle from the seat. If it is not lifting adequately could this cause lean runs or insensitive high needle?

Rear cylinder spark plug definitely too lean but the front cylinder looks about right.

[Tired Old Man]

Unlikely you will see anything. If something got into a high speed passage it would likely be that silly clear sealer they use around the welch plug. Can't see that if it's small enough to get into a passage. If they wanted to seal that thing they should use Three Bond 1192 and let it sit for 24 hours after the application before assembly. Stays forever that way. Now they have a useful product name they'll likely substitute Silly Putty to save money....

The main tab (not the fork) of the metering needle should be about flush with the deck under the diaphragm. Verify that the tabs on the needle fork are equal in height. You don't want an offset fork holding the diaphragm button.

[bmclaughlin]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Tired Old Man
	Unlikely you will see anything. If something got into a high speed passage it would likely be that silly clear sealer they use around the welch plug. Can't see that if it's small enough to get into a passage. If they wanted to seal that thing they should use Three Bond 1192 and let it sit for 24 hours after the application before assembly. Stays forever that way. Now they have a useful product name they'll likely substitute Silly Putty to save money.... The main tab (not the fork) of the metering needle should be about flush with the deck under the diaphragm. Verify that the tabs on the needle fork are equal in height. You don't want an offset fork holding the diaphragm button.

With the diaphram removed and the lever up under it's own spring pressure the diaphram end is very very slightly above level and the needle fork end is definitey inclined downward. The needle fork sides are equal in height not offset.

Would it be correct then to bend the arm so that under spring pressure with the diaphram removed the needle fork would then be parallel to the floor of the chamber?

[RCEXTREMEPOWER]

I have spent hours trying to get a engine to run right with a brand new carb and just finally tossed it, put on a new one and problems went away.

Of all the 15 or so years I have been working with gas engines, I never had the problems we are having with Walbro carbs until I started getting them on engines from Asia, Everything from bad castings to float needle not seating and some that just have small casting cracks in them that allow air leakage and no way to tune them.

I have a box here that has about 30 carbs from the last 1 1/2 years that is not worth there weight in scrap metal. just save them for some of the usable parts left on them.

You will be well ahead of the game by just getting a new carb.

[spyderron]

And the best WALBRO carb for a DLE-111 would be? And where can they be obtained?
Inquiring minds want to know.

[RCEXTREMEPOWER]

	Quote: Originally Posted by spyderron
	And the best WALBRO carb for a DLE-111 would be? And where can they be obtained? Inquiring minds want to know.

The best that I have found is the SDC80 I think is the number, They have been discontinued but you still might find some floating around.

Maybe Ralph will post some good model number, He knows carb numbers up and down.

[Super08]

I believe a WJ-71 will work very well too.

[RCEXTREMEPOWER]

Found this buy searching but do not know anything about them.

http://www.randysenginerepair.biz/se...BURETOR/Detail

Also on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/COMPLETE-NEW-WAL...#ht_2622wt_752

[Tired Old Man]

WJ-71 works very well. Same one used on a DA 100. SDC-80's are getting hard to find. A WGA-9 would be even better but I think an adaptor would have to be incorporated to handle a mounting bolt pattern difference.

We had a lot better carbs from Walbro before they shifted manufacturing to Mexico, China, and Japan. Since then quality consistency has gone into the crapper. Making that even worse is the fact the Chinese have been making Walbo copies without them being a Walbro product, or under Walbro license. Fact is, you don't know what kind of carb you have on an engine coming out of China unless it says EMAS on it. Those are copies of all the other products too, but at least they own up to it. EMAS backwards reads SAME.

bmclaughlin,

Go ahead and bend the tang. That's how you adjust the metering needle height. If that doesn't work then consider dumping the carb as Milton noted. Contact your engine dealer in that event.

[plowboy]

That is some good carby poop right there! Nice to have a thread that is collecting so much good info into one place. Thanks fellas, keep it comin'!!

Hope you got some stick time in this weekend Pat. I sure as Hell didn't.

[Jedijody]

Oh, he certainly did!

The WJ71 is the Walbro carb of choice for the 111 if you want to get rid of the Emas, I've done it several times, works great and easy to convert.

[Tired Old Man]

And wish I didn't....