New DL-55 and DL-111

[rede2fly]

royal purple is the way to go this is some great oil. i broke in both my DA's on this oil my DA85 is the sweetest 85 running that i have seen, my da 100 purrs like a cat and my dle 55 is in heaven after i rescued it from its pryor owner

[Tired Old Man]

18 lbs. pop off is not high. Try using 30+ sometime. Once one understands how to effectively tweak pop off pressure they can perform tuning in rpm bands that will never be correctly tuned with a needle alone.

[Jedijody]

Here we go again.

[borealnw]

Take it from me Lawnboy and amsoil is bad news for a DLE engine. What I payed in rebuilding my engine after that cocetail would have gotten me a higher quality engine. So since most of us are on a budget that has us using a DLE, HP ultra all the way. 32:1 first tank, 40:1 two gallons and be gentle on the airframe no long term hover, torqe rolls or constant long up lines. Then go with 50:1 and you will love the perfomance.

Pass me the popcorn Jody its goin to be a long night.

[Jedijody]

If I'm adjusting the pop off pressure on a 55 it would be between 15-20 PSI, anywhere in that range would work fine. I've seen pop off pressures as high as 25 PSI with no problems at all. As for borealnw's engine, my reason for mentioning it was his engine exhibits symptoms of a very low pop off setting or even possibly a leaking needle and seat. When I'm talking to someone on the phone and don't have the engine in hand I tend to throw as much as I can think of out there as suggestion or possibility, if they know what I'm talking about, great,....if not I'll get another call later, see the question here or the other place, or see the engine hit my door step, it's all good as long as it gets sorted out and back in the air.

[borealnw]

OK so 15-20 PSI. I get a pop off tool from Walbro. Is that kinda like a vacume tool used in the days of old testing the vacume advance on a distributer? I will go to walbro and see about getting one.

So I am guessing that the purpose for a diaphram in these engines is like a float in a standard carb. It meters the amount of fuel needed at various times and throttle positions to keep the engine at top performance. So the wider the throttle the more fuel is needed opening the valve wider to allow more fuel through the reeds. That said I am assuming all this is happening based upon the amount of vacume produced by the engine. Kinda like the metering valve in a Holley Carb. back in the day we used to change those to different "sizes" Pressure ratings to achieve more perfomance on any given thottle curve or in the case of a two stroke band. So I am aussuming that the term pop off means the amount of pressure needed to "pop off" the meter to wide open so as the pressure decreases it allows the spring tension to close the meter lessening the amount of fuel needed. Is this correct. In my case if the pressure is to low then just the vaccume say 5 PSI. Will hold the valve open wider then needed causing my engine to run with a constant burble. On the other end of the spectrum if the pressure is to high then not enough fuel is getting into the engine when needed causing a lean mixture possible granading the engine. So I am aslo assuming that atmosphere, temp and air density plays a large factor in the equation. So at say 15 PSI it might run awesome at my flying field at 500 ASL. Then say in Redmond it is a given that it will run different. Which is the reason for putting on a diff pitch prop and changing the needle settings.

Another question Like Drag racing is it something I will need to know and do at different fields (from Tuscon to Canada)to be on the cutting edge of the power band and performance?

That said would it be good to have the old carb at a higher/lower pop off pressure for say Idaho or Redmond. Then change carbs. Or will the needle adjustment and prop change be good enough.

[Jedijody]

Jeff, while it seems you are gaining an understanding for what pop off pressure is and how it effects the engine, don't think it's something that needs any kind of regular maintenance, periodic attention or adjustment, once it's set correctly for a given carb/engine it's done. There is also a wide range of settings that will work fine with the rest of the adjustment taken up by the lever height and needles. The float in a carb and metering diaphragms don't actually meter anything, they just move the levers that are connected to the metering devices based on fuel demand and atmospheric conditions. In your case we don't know if it is to low, other things can cause the same symptoms, it's just a possibility at this point and it's not something that you would want to try and "tune" for every different field you go to, it would not make any difference. The engine can only pull so much air through a given opening at a given air density with a given porting and exhaust package.

[rcign]

.

[Jedijody]

If I have to wear shoes that don't fit and they give me a blister, I'm gonna put a band aid on it, not make a new pair of shoes.

[RCEXTREMEPOWER]

	Quote: Originally Posted by Jedijody
	If I have to wear shoes that don't fit and they give me a blister, I'm gonna put a band aid on it, not make a new pair of shoes.

I sure would not wear shoes that put blisters on my feet, I would go bare footed first.

[razor1974]

	Quote: Originally Posted by borealnw
	Take it from me Lawnboy and amsoil is bad news for a DLE engine. What I payed in rebuilding my engine after that cocetail would have gotten me a higher quality engine. So since most of us are on a budget that has us using a DLE, HP ultra all the way. 32:1 first tank, 40:1 two gallons and be gentle on the airframe no long term hover, torqe rolls or constant long up lines. Then go with 50:1 and you will love the perfomance. Pass me the popcorn Jody its goin to be a long night.

thanks for the help guys . I gues the stihl oil is the same oil that makes the chainsaws?Where do I purchase it?

[jamesrxx951]

look up on the internet or if you already know of a place that sells sthil equipment.

[Super08]

Just checked the timing on my newest 111. Out to lunch, it was at 36 degrees. I had to dremel the hall sensor a bit to move it enough to get the timing down to 28. I see the hole for the magnet was drilled a little off causing the problem. No biggie, but it is like they just don't get this thing called ignition timing....

[Tired Old Man]

People are trying to turn the operation of their little 2 stroke engines into an exact science in order to extract the absolute maximum performance out of them. Please stop!!

They only need to be "close" or within a certain spread. At best your not seeing more than about 40%-50% of what the engine could provide, and to obtain more will require more time and dollars than you have to spend. Imean literally thousands of dollars more in order to gain a feew more rpm than you will obtain with reasonable tuning, efficient props, and a tuned pipe. For what we use them for it not worth the effort. For a fair number of people even a tuned pipe is an unneccessary expense. You're just keeping up with the Jonses with little practical benefit.

Regarding our carbs. They are very self compensating, and once reasonably well tuned will operate from sea level to well over 10,000" without any need for further adjustment.

Regarding the oil thing. The only way I'm going that route again would be if I chose to engage. if people are too lazy to read the operating manuals for the engine they are using, or placing a call to their distributor, or do a search on three of the four R/C forums about oil I sure don't figure I need to step up and do their job for them...again. I've done well more than enough already.

[Super08]

That is why I just use the standard mufflers up here. Noise is not an issue, and any gains I would see from a properly set up canister system are minimal and unnessasary for fun flying. To me I just see it as added weight. Tuned pipes are right out of the question.